Here is a couple emails I sent people about Fox or SN95 instaals on a 67.
I wish I had taken pics during the process. I don't have any of the completed project either. It is not too bad, but brake lines are a bit of a puzzle. I ended up cutting almost the entire bracket off the caliper soft lines and bolting them under the anti-moan bracket top bolt. I used the 67 chassis soft line, tack welded to the axle tube, and made hard lines to go to the calipers. It all clears the 2.5" exhaust over the axle. If you have side exit or dumps, it will be a little easier. I'm not real excited about the brake lines, but have not come up with a better idea.
I used a 95 gt slip yoke and rear coupler on a 50.25" driveshaft. If you have a 50" driveshaft with 1330 u-joints it will work fine. Mine is borderline too long. Some people use the old style pinion yoke and I have been told they will work with a 51" drive shaft.
I put my original rear end on jack stands with the leaf perches up with a scissor jack under the pinion. It made it easy to move the pinion up or down small amounts. I put a level on the leaf perches and adjusted the jack to get them level. I then used an angle finder to measure the angle of the pinion. Then set the 8.8 on the jack stands and set the pinion to the same angle and set the perches level and tacked them. Be careful not to put too much heat into the axle tubes or they could warp. I was told to weld 1" or less at a time, then move to the other side, and go back and forth. I think the pinion is 3* up in the car so upside down on the jack stands it was 3* down. I left the uca mounts on it and don't have a problem with exhaust clearance with 2.5" exhaust over the axle.
And
I used a housing out of a fox. I cut the brackets off the tubes with a grinder with a cut off wheel on it, followed with a grinding wheel to clean up the left over weld. The tubes are an odd size, I think 2.875". I used perches made for 3" tubes. The Mustang leafs use a smaller pin than most perches come drilled for so I welded them up and drilled them smaller. I set the pinion angle the same as the 6cyl rear end I pulled out. I think 3 degrees up? To convert to 5 lug look here. I bought 2 Ranger axles mentioned in the link from a JY and everything went together perfect. You can redrill the 4 lug drums to 5 lug or buy Ranger drum. Fox and SN95 housing are the same part so I swapped axles and brakes from a 95 to get rear disc. I used the yoke and companion flange from the 95 and had a 50.25" driveshaft made with 1330 ends.
The brake lines are different on the 8.8. The 8.8 soft line is center mounted, instead of offset like on early Mustangs. I used a stock 67 soft line and made hard lines to run to the calipers. I would probably drill and tap the tube and use a stock early model vent to secure it. I have not hooked up e-brake yet so I can't help out there.
You can also put 9" ends on the 8.8 and ditch the c-clips. I have not done this yet, but it is planned. I have heard that 9" axles are the same spline, but I can not be positive. Most the major axle companies sell 9" ends and axle for 8.8's.
The traction lock can be beefed up by adding an extra friction disc. There are threads on most Mustang forums that discuss it. Basically the stock set up has extra steel plates stacked together and you eliminate one of the steels for an extra friction.
I need to do a good right up on my Car Domain site to better share what I have learned. Next time I have the rear end out I will gat some pics. I have tried to get some intalled, but the don't show the detai needed.
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