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My build

51K views 193 replies 31 participants last post by  cyclone03 
#1 ·
Hey all! I have been chomping at the bit to post here. Had to get some things sorted on setting up an account. I used that time to try and read everything I could find on what I'm about to undertake. This will be a lengthy post and I hope I don't step on any toes. I recently bought a 1967 coupe. Body is in very good condition. I looked at tons of cars that had new engines etc but the body was rough. The lines on this one are all straight, little to no bondo and just some surface rust seems to be the worst of it. The previous owner had it painted, and they did a nice job, except they should have gone the extra step and taken care of those surface rust spots. No worries, I'll do that when I change colors. Now to the meat of my post. I intend to use this car as a daily driver. It currently has a 289 with C-4 auto and has power brakes. The 289 had a rotten pipe on the exhaust, I fixed that but its got a lot of other little nuisances. driver motor mount is busted, radiator leaks, although the car runs cool, tranny is leaking pretty good, etc. I bought the car right, and I've still got about $6-7k in my budget for it. I want to modernize it.

I'll go over the motor first. I found a donor 5.0 HO with AOD and fuel injection out of a 93 mustang. Guy said it had 80k miles and ran good. Me being the trusting soul that I am, decided to tear the motor down to be sure. The motor is clean. Very little sludge in the valley and while I didn't mike the cylinders, I can't hang a fingernail on the ridge at the top of the cylinder above where the first ring is and cylinders are not stamped so it's still standard bore. I didn't want to spend money on the heads, but I decided to have them redone. I have a local machine shop porting them and boring the intake to 1.94 and exhaust to 1.60 decking it and checking out the springs. They will also put plugs in the EGR ports for me. I am planning to leave the stock cam in it. Here's what I have left to do: I'm going to wash the block down with solvent and use a wire brush to clean off the carbon. Leaving the freeze plugs, they look fine. Drill the timing chain cover for the dipstick. My late model does not have that nice ledge that is shown in some of the other 5.0 EFI swaps, so not sure what to do unless there is a cover that will work with the serpentine belts that can be drilled. Smog pump had been deleted previously. I will pick up a block off plate from ebay or somewhere for the EGR. I got the timing chain, gasket kit, melling high volume pump, Pick up tube, Water pump, motor mounts from Advance Auto. I need to pick up an A9P computer, but advance sells them for about $90 compared to $250 on ebay. I have all the wiring harnesses for it. I have to get headers an exhaust system, Radiator, High Pressure fuel pump, fuel lines and the sending unit with return built in and an oilpan to complete my engine part of this build. For Exhaust, I would love to go with the JBA ceramic coated midpipe headers for a 5.0 swap, but those are close to $600. Summit has some ceramic coated shorties for $199. Then I was going to pick up 2 hedman starters with the O2 bungs in them already then follow that with a Flowmaster American thunder exhaust system but am open to suggestions (preferably with links). Not sure what size radiator I can put in there. May have to go with an electric fan. Any advice on where to get the fuel lines and in line pump are appreciated as well. On to the tranny.

I have not torn into the tranny yet. I see paint pen markings on the bell housing, so I want to assume its been rebuilt somewhat recently. I'm thinking I am going to drop the pan on the transmission and just look to see if there are any obvious signs of wear. metal sludge in the pan, etc. I ordered the AOD conversion crossbrace and the Lokar TV cable and a new transmission mount from PACT today. I plan to use the yoke from my C-4, along with the dipstick. Planning on using the stock shifter for now. I know I will need to shorten the drive shaft, will have that done locally. On to the suspension.

Stuart over at Steve's mustangs was really patient with all my questions and gave me some really solid advice on this (that reinforced what I had read here). I ordered 5 spring rears for standard ride height. He said to start there, cause I can go down with blocks, but really cant go back up. On the front I ordered new springs and upgraded upper shafts lower control arms bushings and a 1" sway bar. His suggestion was to take off 1" of spring and see how it rides. I'm putting the KYB gas-adjust shocks all the way around. The car currently tracks straight as an arrow, but I'm adding quite a bit of power and also want to add Power steering. I have a guy locally has a Power steering box out of a 67 with the center link that wants $75. It probably will need to be rebuilt. My new motor has a Power steering pump, so I would need the rag joint, new lines and to either cut down the current column or get a new collapsible one. I want the collapsible one anyway. So my debate, is should I just go ahead and get the borgeson kit for almost $1k. Also need to change out the shock tower braces since the stock ones will hit the EFI. Car has power disc brakes already and it stops pretty good now, but will evaluate those when I have it apart. I also ordered a pair of Tin Man subframe connectors.

Other things: I bought an american auto chasis wiring harness and will rewire the car. Found that on Ebay. I intend to put in A/C. I was on perpetual hold with Vintage air the other day. They are local to me so I may have to just go over there. Hoping I can use the current compressor, but I know it isnt R-134 and it get's REALLY hot here in Texas. I'm getting enough B-Quiet Mat to do the roof floor doors trunk and firewall of the car as well. I'm also ordering 3 point safety harnesses. I'd love to knock out the body while I'm at it, but it's passable right now. I know I will need interior and probably should put an alarm on it too. If you guys can think of anything I'm missing or if you have some suggestions please let me know. I'd post pics, just not sure how.
 
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#2 ·
upload your pics to photobucket or a photo hosting site then copy and paste the IMG links into your posts and they'll just show up.

I passed on a full AAW kit becasue they told me I couldn't run it on my 68 because I have factory a/c so I had my main dash harness rebuilt for $175 and it works perfectly now.

Sounds like your off to a good start. I have some good EFI black ribbed Ford Racing EFI valve covers I'll sell you for a good deal, and possibly my unused freshly rebuilt AOD if you choose to go that route. Let me know if you're interested (PM me).
 
#3 ·
Here are some of my answers to your questions:

There is a timing cover that /should/ work. I have not tried it (and probably won't use it). It is Ford M-6059-D351 and retails for around $150. I am dropping a 94 engine into my car and I don't believe that timing cover is compatible with my 94's water pump. I am planning to drill a hole in the passenger's side of the oil pan and feeding the dipstick through that. (Haven't done it yet, so no pictures or advice available.)

There are two really good Ford electric fans available. There is the 90-95 3.8L Taurus fan and the 95-00 V6 Contour fan. The Taurus fan is a single fan, dual speed. It has been reported by "reliable sources" (aka the Internet) to be strong enough to pull small children through the radiator. It is pretty tall and the electric motor sits about where the water pump is, so there may be some clearance issues. The Contour fan is a two fan, 1 speed each setup. It is also reported to have good CFMs. Since the fans are split, there are fewer water pump clearance issues reported with it. There are several controllers you can use. The one I am looking at is the TorqFlo (p/n 733647) adjustable controller from AutoZone. It currently retails for around $35.

For the engine block, you will need to plug the current dipstick hole. I got mine from NAPA -- 3/8" freeze plug, p/n 3812185. They currently retail for a massive $0.75 each. The heads can be plugged with 5/8"-11 3/4" long allen head set screws. Somewhere I had the Ford part number (got mine from Ace Hardware).

Be careful which steering gear box you get. There is a difference between the early and late 67's. The early ones have a very long spear-like shaft that runs up to the steering wheel. The later ones have a very short shaft to which the steering columns connects.

Welcome to the forums. Good luck with the project.

Chuck
 
#4 ·
I called Borgeson today and went ahead and ordered the steering box and all the other necessary parts to make it work. I was looking at brazing in the dipstick into the side of the oil pan, as well. I was at Advance auto today trying to see if a slightly older timing chain cover would work. the part numbers were all the same from 85-93. It changed in 94 but they didnt have a picture/drawing. I also ordered the Aluminum radiator from Summit today, pn# SUM-380479. Supposed to be a direct fit replacement and it has the auto trans cooler. I like having a liquid trans cooler as the thermal transfer is better from liquid to liquid than liquid to air. Thanks for that napa part number, I will pick one of those up for the dipstick. I should be ready to put all these parts together late next week or early the following week. The only thing I really don't have, at this point, is the computer, an accelerator cable and a way to attach it to the pedal, a new water pump, (work out the timing cover/dipstick issue), the A/C, and some other miscellaneous parts. I ordered some summit brand ceramic shorty headers (pn# SUM-G9070) and 2 magnaflow Ultra flow Welded mufflers. I think I will get the exhaust done locally. I bought some O2 bungs to weld into the pipes just after the headers. Can't wait to get going on the project.
 
#5 ·
Slow down cowboy! Let me try to help you with a few derailments I see heading your way.
You said you ordered the Borgeson box. I understand that there are very few headers that fit with those. Don't throw out your Summit receipts and header box just yet. You might be returning them.
Did you get the radiator to fit the Fox water pump? Bottom hose is on a different side than the basic small block.
You have to stick to the fox timing chain cover, reverse rotation pump. There is room to drill it out. I did mine.
Ditch the HV oil pump. Unless you are running a deep sump pan, you can suck the pan dry. Stock Melling is just fine.
Don't mix and match the A/C parts. You might not have a properly working system when done. Classic Air or Vintage sell great systems that use a modern compressor that requires slight modifications to the serpentine mounts. If you try to use the Fox compressor and things don't work, you might have a hard time getting assistance from Classic or Vintage.

How much did you spend on those stock heads? Usually for a couple hundred more you can find a good set of used aluminum aftermarkets.
Glad to see you are really excited about this project. It keeps the hobby going with new blood in the mix.
 
#6 ·
I ordered Shorty headers, and spoke directly with borgeson about what I was doing. I think I could drop the steering box an inch if I had to for clearance. Everything I read said shorty's worked cause they were not much larger than stock.

I got the radiator with the inlet on the passenger top and outlet on the driver bottom. My motor is not a fox motor. It's from a 94. It does not have that flat ledge to drill out the timing chain cover. Its a lot thinner and on a curve.

I have read now, that there's an issue with the 94's and the shock towers on the driver side hitting the A/C compressor. There's very little on the work arounds for it. I see Rockitt relocated his to where the smog pump was but didn't indicate HOW he did it. The a/c uses 4 bolts to bolt into its bracket across the compressor. The smog pump used a bolt that was front to back. I need to check that bracket I have, as this motor had the smog pump removed, and I think the bracket might have been shaved some. I will look at it more in depth tomorrow. Worst case, I will look at changing out the accessory brackets to pre 94. I understand about mix/matching and I will talk with them about it. This compressor wouldn't be set up for R134A refrigerant so I need to see what the options are anyways.

As for the heads, I debated on that. Was advised to not really look at those aluminums that I could find for cheap. If it was used, they could have been overheated and warped. New and the quality was questionable. I paid $500 to have a reputable performance machine shop port and re-valve these heads to 1.94 intake and 1.60 exhaust. Sure they are a bit heavier but should work great. I felt that was a good bang for my buck. Edelbrocks were about $1k for their entry level. When I get them home, I will port match them to the intake and exhaust manifolds.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Sorry, didnt catch the year of your motor. Personally, I would just ditch the '94 serpentine and timing cover. You are right, cannot drill the SN-95 covers. And I wouldn't run the SN-95 FI system either. Way too pickey on cam choices. Theres only 3 cam I know of you can run without a tune. Stock, Steeda 19 and TF Stage 1.
I bought a set of TF Twisted Wedge at a swap meet for $600 with very low time on them from a guy upgrading to a big block. Secret to finding good Ford deal, go to a mostly Chevy swap meet!
Not sure about '94's, but '95's are 134a.
Check out Corral.net for good deals on serpentine systems off of a Fox.
If your interested, I have a few Fox serpentine systems I could swap you out for the SN stuff you have. I know I have the PS pump/pulley and bracket and I think I have the alt bracket too. Don't have any of the AC stuff or timing cover and pump though.
I am running (going to when it get running)the Fox serpentine system in my '66
 
#8 ·
Ok, got an update. I hit the junkyards today. I had looked on ebay and found the serpentine brackets for all but the AC and it was going to run about $275 plus shipping. Then I needed the timing chain cover for about $160. Add to that that Im still needing a starter, MAF, ignition coil, cold air intake etc.... it was gonna add up. I walked into a parts yard and they had a 91 mustang LX. Motor still in the car and it was freshly rebuilt, all the gaskets are new. It was only missing the alternator and smog pump. I picked up the whole engine with the starter, cold air intake and even the radiator shroud. Now this opens another can of worms. This has the salt and pepper shaker connections and I have the complete harness from the 94..... so since I have to pair down wires anyway, do I follow the wiring diagram, and rewire. I can get the wire harness from the car for $100 but the did break some of the clips. I will still have to strip it down and make it work. But at least I can fit the motor in now. I also got the monte carlo shock tower bar from the car. I know it wont work, but I'm hoping I can use that as a platform to build the one for this car. Im hoping the Alternator from the 94 will bolt up. I will tear this one down to to confirm that its been rebuilt. I will use my heads from the 94 that are being revalved. This motor had stock headers so I wouldn't think there's been any mods like a cam etc. If they wanted that I would have expected to see more than just a K&N cold air intake. When all is said and done, I will put the 94 back together and try and sell it maybe recoup most of my money.
 
#9 ·
wow..... So I tear down the motor to see what I got and if it is actually a rebuilt motor. My first hint that their might be a problem when I noticed there was no dipstick hole on the driver side of the block. Then I pulled off the intake and no roller lifters. So, they got a shortblock and put the heads on it. It's not a total loss. I will take the parts I need and put it on my modern block and then sell the long block. I should recover most of the money I spent on the motor and I got all the extra parts. I'm going to call the salvage yard monday. They had a guarantee on the motor. It may have run, but it would have run like crap, without the roller cam, I suspect. I dont think I'll be too hard on them as I got everything I wanted and then some. But, I will see if they will give me the wiring harness to make up for the motor not being all it was supposed to be.
 
#10 ·
Man, what a bummer on the block! But don't try to splice the '94 to the Fox harness. Get the complete harness out of the same car the motor came out of. Use the wrong block as a bargaining chip.
You can install the '94 alt. on the Fox bracket, but you need to cut a small notch in the backside of the bracket. Did this with mine. I also cut off the air pump ears to clean up the bracket too. The '94-'95 alt. is the best one Ford ever made.
 
#11 ·
Man Scott, you read my mind. Yeah I can sell the block and heads and I have the roller block from the 94. So i went by the yard today and talked to the guy told him about the motor. Also I told him I appreciated him helping me out with all the other accessories, and I can probably sell the motor etc. I asked him if he'd hook me up on a few more parts to make up for the block. I got the wiring harness, the fuel cutoff switch, the computer mounting bracket, and the gas pedal and cable. Was going to try and get the O2 harness but would have had to pull the driver seat to get them and the fuel relay, so I passed on those. I just need the connectors anyway and I can get them off the 94. Although, I think the 94 only has 1 O2 sensor. cause the EGR had a tube went into the other header on the 94. Either way, I think I got a huge amount of parts, so I'm happy. Anyone know if you can move the A/C to the smog pump location on the 93? It would be a cleaner application.
 
#12 ·
Parts are starting to come in now. I'm hoping to start pulling and replacing next week. I got the shorty headers in from summit. I put them on the engine and took some measurements. It doesnt look like they will even come close to fitting. I show that I only have about 3.5 " of clearance from head to shock tower on the driver side and about 4.5" on passenger side. These are around 5.5" from the head. I know james used a pair of JBA's and I've heard people say most any shorty would work, but anyone have a model number to one they KNOW works on these swaps? This would appear to be one 1650-SJS Mustang 5.0 EFI Swap Header Mid-Length Ceramic 1964-1973 | CJ Pony Parts and Summit has the same one just its not called a 5.0 EFI swap header there. I really don't want to spend that much for headers but if nothing else will fit, then I guess I'm stuck. I do want the ceramic coating to keep heat down. Any suggestions?
 
#13 ·
#14 · (Edited)
Ok got some pictures uploaded so I will try and post them.

My car.




The 94 donor motor



The AOD (which should have been an AODE but it worked out)



The 289 thats currently in the car



Can someone tell me what alternator this is?


The Heads off the 94 (currently being ported & revalved to 1.94 and 1.60 and adding studs and roller 1:6 ratio rockers)


The block torn down. Very little wear on the cylinder walls. not a lot of sludge in the valley pan.



This is the motor out of the 91 that I got. supposedly JUST rebuilt and runs strong.



Can you spot the problem?


how bout now


The timing chain cover for the 91 about to be drilled. I drilled from the inside out as it gave me more room to get the right angle without buying a long bit.



And after its drilled.



I will have more on all the parts and various ones as I install them.
 
#15 ·
Ok a few more.....

Intake and some accessories gotta find something to clean that aluminum...


New oil pump and pickup and the bottom end after washing the block with diesel.



Pistons cleaned up.




Oil pan painted and set in place
 
#16 ·
Ooh! (Raises hand) I see the problem. The absence of the lifter spider is the problem, and in the next picture the roller lifters seem to have magically transformed into flat tappet lifters. That's not right for '91 or '94!
 
#17 ·
GOLD STAR! I'm glad I don't take anyone's word on anything when it comes to condition of a motor. I've found so many loose bolts on this motor the only thing I can figure is, they couldnt get it to run, tore it back down to figure it out then just stuck back together and sold the car.

I do need some help. Can someone who has the 5.0 HO swapped in take several pictures of the accessory brackets and the bolts to the water pump? I did take a pic of it as I was tearing it down, but the bolts were not through the AC bracket. so I don't know if they should be bolts, or those stud type bolts. I need to find a place to just buy all new bolts for this with a diagram for where they go. Barring that I may have to just measure and go to the bolt and screw shop.
 
#18 ·
one more thing. I noticed there is a notch on the timing chain cover under the water pump. Is this normal? Just seems like it will leak, even if I get it bolted down tight.
 
#19 ·
OK, got a work update.

Got the heads back from the machine shop. The new valves are BIG! The intake is only 1.94 I cant imagine how they fit 2.02 in these heads. They should breath much better now.


Here's the roller rockers and the Poly locks.


Heads mounted to block.



Timing cover on. No one told me about that damn gremlin that steals bolts from you.


Ok, I'm not really this far along. But I'm trying to figure out which bolts go where and what I'm missing so I can get them before I glue things down with RTV. The Blue intake came from the donor car that way. I have paint stripper, but they painted some things that I dont know if I can strip.... plus I cant get the aluminum clean..... so I may paint the intake black and may paint the valve covers as well.... haven't decided.

 
#20 ·
I think the gremlins that steal bolts from your car must come over to my place and leave them with me - I always seem to have extra bolts laying around.

Did you ever get your water pump bolts figured out? The water pump is still bolted on to the 1990 5.0 that I bought many years ago, so I can check that for you if you need me to.

As far as cleaning aluminum, glass bead blasting works very well and it doesn't damage the metal in any way. Most machine shops have a bead blaster for cleaning aluminum parts (intakes, heads, etc.) since you can't put aluminum in a hot tank like you can with steel parts. You might check with your machine shop and see if they have a glass bead blaster. If your blue intake is spray painted, the bead blaster should strip that off pretty easily. If it's powdercoated, you'll need chemicals to dissolve the powdercoat.

If you do end up getting anything bead blasted, check all the bolt holes and get all the glass beads out (they look like fine sand). The glass beads tend to pack into the bottom of blind bolt holes and you'll be scratching your head trying to figure out why your bolts won't go all the way in, even though it's the same bolt you took out (ask me how I know!) - and it's not gremlins switching your bolts out for longer ones! Also blow out all passages and clean the parts thoroughly - especially inside the intake - you don't want your engine to suck in any glass beads when you start it up!
 
#21 ·
The machine shop does.... but that really adds up. its about $40 an item. I had mentioned to JamesW how nice his aluminum looked and he mentioned about the oxidation and how it only looks nice for a while. Im going to look at Advance Auto today about an aluminum colored engine paint, and just paint it. I did get the water pump figured out, except for the Long bolt on the bottom right. The gremlins took that one. Cause I don't have one anywhere that will fit it. I also snapped a socket yesterday trying to break loose the 3 bolts on the power steering pump. I had 2 different pumps. 1 from the 94 and one from the 91. The 91 was no good, it had regular bolts, took them off no problem. In 94 they changed to these reverse star pattern nuts and they hired an 800 pound gorilla to torque them down. I think the engineers sit around and try to come up with ideas that make things much harder for the average guy to fix. I think I can solve a rubics cube faster than I can get these brackets all figured out. The bracket that CAA sent me for their AC compressor is wrong. They sent one for the 94 motor, so I gotta call and get the proper one here. I also need to research the alternator. The one I have is off the 94 so I gotta figure out how to make it work and the serpentine idler pulley seems backwards to me. It puts pressure pushing down towards the crank, yet there are no pulleys higher than it.... oh well, I'll figure it out.
 
#22 ·
The Borgeson install made me nuts. The steering box sticks out an extra 3/8 inches and I had to dimple my headers to get them by it. The Saginaw pump was the next big problem because of the lack of serpentine brackets to fit it to a Ford engine. Borgeson told me to get a Ford pump and they would sell me the hoses to fit. Regretfully, I stayed with the Saginaw and managed to fit it up with long bolts/spacers. It is not a good install but it will do for the time being. I think I will eventually sell it off and get a Ford pump after I sort out some other problems.
 
#23 · (Edited)
I went to Advance and bought a new pump. These damn bolts are welded in place. I'm not even going to worry about the core charge. Fortunately I dont need that bracket. I figured out the tensioner pulley issue. It does not appear to be the correct tensioner. I noticed it was grooved unlike all the pics I see where they are smooth. Next, the pin on the back was broken off and thats why the angle was wrong. So I ordered a correct tensioner for the 91. It was $60 so not too bad. Probably could have spent half a day at a junkyard and gotten one for a lot less, but my time is worth more. I'm guessing the previous owner of the 91 put the different tensioner on as a way to eliminate the smog pump. The alternator from the 94, is a 3G. It ALMOST wants to bolt up, but is a little smaller across from bolt hole to bolt hole. Not sure if I can just use an adjustable bracket for that, or just make an adapter so that it is basically in the same spot. They must have built 2 different types of 3G, cause everything I seem to find says it should fit. I will still need to deal with the missing smog pump. Is there a shorter belt that will work for this?
 
#54 ·
I will still need to deal with the missing smog pump. Is there a shorter belt that will work for this?
I haven't finished catching up on this thread yet so I don't know if you have solved this issue yet or not. Here is a nice chart with belt lengths for various 94/95 accessory configurations. I am currently planning no smog and no A/C. That eliminates the A/C hitting the shock tower issue. I've never had A/C in this car and routinely drive without it in my daily driver, so it won't be missed much.

Chuck
 

Attachments

#24 ·
As for the borgeson.... I'm not sure if this is the best way to do it, but I'm thinking of leaving the steering box out until I get the engine in. Then deal with the steering box with the engine in place. Did you try one of those adapters that lowers the box like 1"?
 
#25 ·
I was unaware of an adapter that would lower the box. I don't see how it could work and still line up with the column and pitman arm. The steering column is a tight fit as it is. If it could be moved further forward and down to stay in line with the shaft I can see that as solving the header problem. Don't know about the pitman arm geometry though.
 
#26 ·
More progress. Got the intake cleaned up and mounted.



Solved my alternator issue. The one I had was the 95 amp 135mm one. So I went back to advance and got the 160amp G6 one and I got the serpentine tensioner in. Also got the new Power steering pump mounted.



Got the bracket notched and drilled for the dipstick. Had an issue with the poly locks on the rockers. They are a bit till and it hit the oil baffle in the valve cover. I removed the baffle, and the cover bolted on. I havent turned the motor over to see if it contacts the cover or not... I'm crossing my fingers.



driver side header. Looks like I need to get those small head header bolts.


passenger side.



Now, I have to call CAA they sent me the wrong bracket for the AC compressor. It looks like I need the idler pulley for the air pump. maybe I can try and find a shorter one, locally. I'm pretty much at a stand still on the motor now. Just need to put the flex plate on, get the upper intake cleaned and painted and ready to go and get the AC pump bracket. I really hate the pulley set up for the power steering pump. I used the tool to press it on, but it still has to go about another quarter inch and the bolt starts to back out instead of press the pulley on. I need to locate the really long water pump bolt for the bottom right. The gremlins took that one. I pulled the torque converter off the AOD tonight, it looks really clean. The front seal is clean and I'd venture to say this has been recently rebuilt. I am gonna tear into the trans next. Once I can confirm the trans is in good condition I will start on the rear springs, and undercoating the pan and get ready to put on the tin man subframe connectors and to pull the motor/trans this week.
 
#27 · (Edited)
You should be able to find a belt in the length you need at your local auto parts store. There's a secret to the way the belt part numbers work. A lot of times you'll see a belt part number like "875K6" - all that means is that it's 87.5" long and has 6 ribs. If the part number was something like "905K6", that would be a 90.5" belt with 6 ribs. The key here is to measure your belt length, determine the number of ribs (the 5.0 uses a 6 rib belt) and then go to the auto parts store. The counter guy will want to punch your vehicle into the computer and use the part# the computer tells him - you'll have to tell him that you have a custom application and you just need a specific belt. Either that or tell him to look up a 1960-something Mustang with a fuel injected 5.0 etc. etc. I guarantee he won't find it in the computer.

To measure your belt, get a piece of string about 8-10 feet long. With all of your accessories installed, route the string around the pullies using the same path the belt would take. To allow slack for the tensioner, you have a few options. 1) You can put a breaker bar on the tensioner and have someone pull against the spring and hold the tensioner in its approximate final position while you route the string. 2) If you don't have an extra set of hands, measure the belt length with the tensioner released and then knock a few inches off the length so that the tensioner will actually put tension on the belt. With the string routed like the belt, pull the string snug (but don't stretch it). Where the string overlaps itself, take a marker and put a mark on each piece of the string. Take the string off the pullies and lay it out straight. Now use a tape measure to measure the distance between the marks you made - that's how long your belt needs to be. Just get the belt that is closest to your measured length. You might want to pick up several belts right around that length (i.e. if you measure 85", get the belt closest to 85" and then the next shortest and next longest). Install each of the belts on the engine and see which one fits the best, then return the others for a refund. Don't forget to make a note of the length in case you ever need to buy a new belt. I needed to do this for a custom application many years ago and they let me come behind the counter and look through the belts and get the one I needed - I don't know if you'll be that lucky.

P.S. I e-mailed the EFI wiring directions to you.
 
#29 ·
The counter guy will want to punch your vehicle into the computer and use the part# the computer tells him - you'll have to tell him that you have a custom application and you just need a specific belt. Either that or tell him to look up a 1960-something Mustang with a fuel injected 5.0 etc. etc. I guarantee he won't find it in the computer.
LOL yeah, they quit asking me. I had one kind of argue with me about needing the info, so I told him. 1967 ford mustang 94 5.0 HO with 91 intake and accessories.... He just stared at the computer. Then one of the other guys I always deal with there came over and said, "I got this." I planned on using the string method you spoke of, I have an old belt was just going to cut it and use that, but same principle. I did get that Wiring diagram you sent, thanks! Looks pretty good. I'm going to start stripping the harness down this week. I need to either go back and get that O2 harness and fuel pump relay this week, or build my own. Just depends on what I can get it for. I need a surge tank also, so gotta see if they got a fuel injected ford truck there. That and fuel lines are the only thing I am lacking, that I can think of. I really don't wanna see my credit card bill this month....

Hey Blue Blood, I appreciate that, but I really want to get away from that dummy pulley. It's just something else to break and takes up space, which there isn't a whole lot of.
 
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