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New to the Forum! How To Start-up An Engine Thats Been Sitting 10-12 Years?

3K views 17 replies 9 participants last post by  22GT 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi Everyone.
New to the forum.

Long story short, my dad past away from a car accident in 2001. I have a 1967 mustang fastback w/ a 289 thats been sitting in my garage, since 2001. Last time it was running, was during his funeral during the procession. I probably started it up in 2003 for a bried 5 mins, but then it died. Eventually would start back up....Im assuming the engine needed to be warmed up or something along the lines of that.

I've always been a car guy, and hung around him when he worked on the mustang. 25 years of age now, and FT job....I am getting back into the groove of cars and auto-mechanics. I have a subaru forester that I love.

Peep my journal for it here:
http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f115/apalacpac-2006-garnet-red-forester-143425/

Haven't done much, but have been able to do the suspension and lower it by myself. As well as adding some more suspension stuff, and stuff to the exhaust. Not much engine stuff....well because its not worth it on a N/A Subaru.

Anyways, I would love to make this mustang a good project car. I think that I am mechanically inclined, and able to do anything as long as I have a plan and good set of instructions/path of where I want to go and what I want to do.

First thing I want to try and do is get the engine fired up. Car doesn't neccessarily need to be in driveable, but just want to hear some life come out of it. In the long run I'll eventually swap a 351W, but for not I just want to hear the beat of the engine ROAR.

So what steps do I take to possibly revive an engine that has been sitting there so long. I've heard of siphoning the old gas, and drain all fluids...etc. Are there any good DIY articles for something that been been sitting for so long? More particular to my engine? Anyhelp would be great!

Also what car manuals/guides do you guys recommend?
 
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#2 ·
#4 ·
thanks for the quick reply.

Are there any repair manuals or anything like that you guys recommend? Ones with pics and diagrams? Or any suggestions in general? I have to have it in a book form rather than electronic.

the ford factory shop manual is a good start. available at most major mustang vendors. stay away from the chilton/haynes books. not enough detailed info there.
 
#5 ·
What you want to avoid is damaging the engine as you try to turn it over.

We recently got my mustang running after 34 years. The first week was spent oiling it up. Pull all of the spark plugs and spray the cylinders with oil. Pour oil down the carb. (Note, that won't help you to get it firing, but it will lube up your intake.) Pour/spray oil into the ports on the valve covers, or take the covers off and oil directly.

The thing you don't want to do is force the engine to turn if it is reluctant to do so. You could break a stuck ring or worse. Try turning it by hand if you can. If you have the plugs out and the car in neutral it should turn just by manually spinning the fan.

Once you get the engine spinning freely- then try to get the engine to start.
 
#7 ·
I agree totally with this post. I last fall fired up a 351w that was sitting for 30 plus years and this is how I did it. Actually started up really well. I changed the oil and filter also. Plus new gas tank. I did not put the oil down the carb but that wont hurt either (may foul the plugs no biggie). I replaced all the plugs and points needed changing (rusty). Also, you may have to change gas filter b/c it may have gummed up from sitting.
These are the steps I did it in.
1) spin well
2) fuel
3) electrical.
After running for around 30 miles, I changed oil again to get rid of the rust and ect that may have aculmulated. Good Luck! If the engine is running well, will give you some fun. I do like the 351 windsor though lol
 
#6 ·
First thing I want to try and do is get the engine fired up. Car doesn't neccessarily need to be in driveable, but just want to hear some life come out of it. In the long run I'll eventually swap a 351W, but for not I just want to hear the beat of the engine ROAR.
Follow the above advice about oil, removing the plugs, etc.

As for replacing the engine, why? You can get enough power out of a 289 to get your wife to file for divorce. :shocked:

 
#9 ·
If it runs, does not burn oil and has oil pressure I would not even worry about it unless you need to pull it for other reasons. I think fords are ok burning unleaded but I am unser on this. I only pulled mine b/c I am putting t5 in and gonna paint it.
 
#10 ·
Pour oil down the carb. (Note, that won't help you to get it firing, but it will lube up your intake.)
Have to ask why? Never hear that one before. Oil in the intake does not seem to do much. All you have is air/fuel mixture in the intake so why "lube" it... no moving parts there? Valves should be oiled from the heads...?

All new fluids, new plugs, turn by hand with some oil down the bores thru the plug holes, pull the distributor, manually run the pump to oil the heads... all I did after letting a 390 sit for 5-6 years or so. Still running fine 7-ish years later.

One tip that can help, if you have access to a carb off a running car it can ensure that is not an issue. Swap the known on for initial startup, then swap back, can eliminate some issues, helped me debug a new build a while ago by eliminating one factor when it would not fire.
 
#11 ·
If you can find the many other threads on this- you won't need a book (yet). If you are mechanically inclined, I bet you have it running in a few hours, then you can see what else lies in store for you. The threads are pretty much step by step with cautions here and there and tips. I would guess most stangs have been off the road at one time or another and have been started w/o much issue. I suspect I know what you are really wanting, and yes, you will "feel" the connection to your father when the engine cranks up.
 
#12 ·
dalorzof- That's something that we always did as part of winterizing our summer engines (lawn mowers, boats, etc). In fact, that was the last step, we'd pour oil down the carb and kill the engine that way. I was always told that it coated everything in oil and protected the engine from damage during its slumber.

Perhaps it doesn't do anything towards breaking free an already sitting engine but I'm willing to use 50 cents worth of oil in the hopes of lubing up the rings from both sides...
 
#13 ·
So today.

1st tried spinning the fan by hand. No budge.

I sprayed the spark plugs with PB blaster. Let it sit for like 30 mins. Took all but 1 out.

Put in about an oz-2oz of MMO in each one.

Now able to able to fully spin the fan by hand! Woot! Didn't take too long.

Whats next?
 
#15 ·
So today.

1st tried spinning the fan by hand. No budge.

I sprayed the spark plugs with PB blaster. Let it sit for like 30 mins. Took all but 1 out.

Put in about an oz-2oz of MMO in each one.

Now able to able to fully spin the fan by hand! Woot! Didn't take too long.

Whats next?

Is there an engine rebuilt kit you guys suggest getting, once/if I do get this up and running?
Holy poop! Unless you want a scored cylinder, get that last plug out and get some oil in there, too.

I hope the crankshaft turns, not just the fan.

If you get it running, there's every chance you don't need a rebuild kit.
 
#14 ·
DId the crank turn too? If not keep soakin, as only the water pump is free. If so- now you want to accomplish several step- if you are gonna try with the carb on it now- rig up a small gas tank (IV bottle, lawn mower, pepsi can etc) to supply fresh gas to the carb. Don't even try the fuel tank/lines at this point. It will just send trash and gummy fuel to the carb. We want fresh gas directly into the fuel bowl. When this is done- you want to replace points/condenser (or just file points, ensure the correct gap, and make sure all looks well under the dist cap) At this point we want fire- (I personally would pull the distributor, and build oil pressure using a cordless drill to spin the oil pump), then reinstall and try to start. Note: this is an abbreviated version to start- the threads prev mentioned will have more detail and other things some people would do prior to start. But IMHO if the cylinders are oiled, and you have built up oil pressure, this is sufficient. (we are really determining if the engine is DOA or not) If it starts, it still may need a rebuild, if it smokes (after the MMO you poured in burns off), rattles, knocks- you can stop and begin engine removal. I highly recommend reading the threads as there are other details that may/may not apply, and you really want to know about the distributor shaft and where it will go if you let it fall out. Its pretty easy to get these motors to run but theres a lot of little "ruin your day" details spelled out in the threads. (these come up about every 3-6 months)
 
#17 ·
Put a socket on the crank bolt and turn it over clockwise with all the spark plugs out. If it was me I'd spray a light oil in the spark plug holes, turn it 1/4 turn then spray some more and repeat until you're all the way around.

It won't hurt to prime the oil pump too, at the very least you can see if it's working then.
 
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