Chasers 66 Restomod 408 Coupe - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #16 of 52 (permalink) Old 11-07-2016, 10:08 AM
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Man, you are moving at an incredible pace. Keep up the good work!

I'm not an expert, but I play one on the internet.
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post #17 of 52 (permalink) Old 11-07-2016, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks! This one is behaving WAY better than the convertible. Admittedly...i've had this one apart a few times since i've had it so that helps.

I have most of next week off for deer season but I'm pretty sure I'll have a lot of time to work on the car. I'm aiming to have the floor pans finish welded, car sanded down, and have it epoxy primered by the end of next week. With any luck I wont find too much crap I have to fix on the body but I have found a couple sketchy previous owner repairs so it'll be a crap shoot.
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post #18 of 52 (permalink) Old 11-11-2016, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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I finished painting the engine bay with Eastwood chassis black on Wednesday and it looks pretty darn good. Photobucket is being weird again. When it starts behaving I'll post some photos.

Today I finished welding the inner rockers and floor pans. This thing is rock solid now. I also welded in the convertible seat riser. I had to break out my big hammer which I have started affectionately referring to as "the persuader". The floor pans didnt mate perfectly but it'll do.

I also put down some rust encapsulator under the dash and on the pans to hopefully kill off any rust generation. I've begun the arduous job of sanding it down to bare metal.

It wasnt all roses today though...I found some 'patched over' rust on both wheelhouses. So new wheel houses will be here Monday. The plan is to cut and splice them in...right or wrong thats what I'm committing to.

There was also a small mishap in the shop. I had the hood on the roof of the car...not really thinking anything of it. While I was doing some sanding the hood slid off the front of the car onto the freshly painted engine bay. The hood is okay but it did mar up some of the paint. I'll touch it up after I get done doing bodywork.

I have the next few days off work...hoping to get:

-- wheel houses repaired
-- under rear seat pans repaired
-- fix the buggered up radio slot
-- spray rust encapsulator rest of the interior
-- shell down to bare metal...or close

Pretty hefty list of chores...lets see how far I can get

Also debating shaving the drip rails...
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post #19 of 52 (permalink) Old 11-15-2016, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
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As promised...pictures of the engine bay prior to the hood calamity...




Here's the cabin with the vert inner rockers and seat riser installed. There's a little more cleanup to do in this area but overall, i'm pleased:



Sanded the quarters down over the weekend and was met with a flurry of body putty. It looks like the PO who reskinned this didnt believe in grinding welds...they also jacked up the skin right behind the drivers door




I cant say I'm terribly surprised given what the floor pan welds looked like. I'm now on the fence about pulling the quarters off to repair the wheel houses versus just trying to grind and splice...pictures of the drivers wheelhouse:




I think today, I'm going to cut out the bad wheel house stuff and see what I'm left with. Maybe it's not as bad as what I initially think but it currently doesnt look great. I'm also going to go about fixing one trunk panel that's installed about 3/8" out of square. In the grand scheme that may not seem like much but it's just enough that the tank doesnt fit right.

....I'm also going to run my leaf blower in the garage and blow out the 1/4" of body putty dust that has now encapsulated EVERYTHING

so
much
body
filler

Last edited by chaser012001; 11-15-2016 at 09:43 AM.
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post #20 of 52 (permalink) Old 11-15-2016, 09:59 AM
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Nice work. I'm probably going to be doing the mod on the front end of my car for a 24" radiator. Any tips you can pass along from doing it on your car?

Dan
Chapel Hill, NC
***PM me if you're close by and can lend a hand with my 65 Fastback project***
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post #21 of 52 (permalink) Old 11-15-2016, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Dan Babb View Post
Nice work. I'm probably going to be doing the mod on the front end of my car for a 24" radiator. Any tips you can pass along from doing it on your car?
Measure five times, question your measurement, have your wife come out and check your measurements another four times, argue a little bit, measure three more times and then cut

I found the center of the radiator and then measure out to the edge of the air portion. Then I did the same measurement on the car and marked with chalk in the center, top, and bottom. I then measured diagonally from the top corners to the bottom corners to make sure they were both equal. Use a known straight edge (like a level) to finish drawing out your lines. Check the measurements from top and bottom as well as side to side again at every point. When satisfied...measure again. When you're sure you have it right...measure one more time. After everything is certain let the cutting being. Cut the inside of the line. I used a plasma cutter but a cutoff wheel or body saw would also do the trick. Take your time cause it's real hard to get a do-over on this. After you're done cutting, smooth out any rough edges.

For the radiator, this one has dowels welded in the bottom that sit down into the frame rail. I used white out on the bottoms of the dowls to find the drill point. From there drill a small pilot hole and then work your way up to the proper size. Sit the radiator down in to verify everything's cool and go pour some whiskey.

Quick word of caution...dont set the radiator flat against the support when you get ready to do your holes. I did that and noticed it didnt want to sit the in the opening very well. Setting it back about 1/4-3/8 inch did the trick.
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post #22 of 52 (permalink) Old 12-08-2016, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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It's been a bit since I've posted so I wanted to provide an update (sadly no pic's yet).

I have smoothed out the crap quarter panel welding as best I can. I think it's smooth enough to not warrant a crap ton of body putty...at least not as much as what was on there. I've also cut out and patched the rip job on the drivers side. I still need to smooth out the welds there and probably do some touch up welding. Same with the wind sail rusting and a few other spots I've discovered. I've decided to keep the drip rails so I'm working on patching them up and splicing them back in. After I'm done with that stuff I'll be going over the repairs with dynaglass.

I started repairing the wheel wells...and think I did a pretty bang up job with cutting the bad crap out and welding in the good stuff. Then I got it in my head that I want to clearance the front and rear a little more to accommodate larger tires in the future. So i have cut a slit of each corner and am reshaping the wheel houses. I also took a stab at rolling one of the rear fenders and did a pretty terrible job of it that I'm going to have to fix now. It's kind of embarrassing how horrible a job it was so I'm going to keep that to myself :-D

On a lighter note...I had a great conversation with Shaun from SoT this morning about the front suspension, spindles, brakes, wheels, and lots of other things. Dudes pretty cool and I look forward to speaking with him again in the future. It'd be tough to find someone more passionate about these old cars and making them better than that guy.

I put in an order for their Stage 5 suspension kit. That's tubular uca / lca, performance springs, roller perches, and adjustable strut rods. Upgrading to the big bearing spindles for peace of mind. I also put in for the 13" 1.25 rotor disc brakes system. That's all very exciting!!

....and after that order I put in with Summit for 2 torque thrust ii wheels, 4.75 backspacing, 8" wide and a set of Sport Comp 2 wheels in 245/40-r17. I'm going to see if I can get them under the front fenders. If not, i'll run them in the rear and order a 235 set for the front. The plan is to eventually get another 4 rims and outfit them with dedicated racing wheels.

I've also contacted my Ford racing machine shop to begin work on the 408 block. It'll be a full roller w/ Scat cast crank, H-beam rods, and flat top pistons. I'm going to top it with AFR205 72cc heads, an edelbrock air-gap, quickfuel 750 carb and a set of 1 3/4 accufab headers in February when it's done...and I have money again :-D They are also going to setup a custom ground cam to work with a TKO600 w/ race gear (.82 overdrive) and 3.70 gears on 25.5" tires.

Last edited by chaser012001; 12-08-2016 at 02:36 PM.
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post #23 of 52 (permalink) Old 12-08-2016, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by chaser012001 View Post
It's been a bit since I've posted so I wanted to provide an update (sadly no pic's yet).

I started repairing the wheel wells...and think I did a pretty bang up job with cutting the bad crap out and welding in the good stuff. Then I got it in my head that I want to clearance the front and rear a little more to accommodate larger tires in the future. So i have cut a slit of each corner and am reshaping the wheel houses. I also took a stab at rolling one of the rear fenders and did a pretty terrible job of it that I'm going to have to fix now. It's kind of embarrassing how horrible a job it was so I'm going to keep that to myself :-D
opened up the wheel wells myself. I did a roll job while installing the quarters, got one side finished, still have to put polish on the other side but looks pretty good.
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post #24 of 52 (permalink) Old 12-08-2016, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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Did you roll them prior to putting them in I take it?

Mine were already installed and I misunderstood the process for rolling. I sliced the whole lip every 5 inches or so and proceeded to start dollying them flat. However, because I cut the slits in the whole thing, it knocked the lip out of adjustment on the flare. I got the flare reset but still have some more hammering to fix some of the lipping. I'm planning on getting an Eastwood roller and am going to heat that lip, roll it, and try and get it reshaped proper. The passenger side was left in tact so I can use it or measurements and balancing.
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post #25 of 52 (permalink) Old 12-09-2016, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by chaser012001 View Post
Did you roll them prior to putting them in I take it?

Mine were already installed and I misunderstood the process for rolling. I sliced the whole lip every 5 inches or so and proceeded to start dollying them flat. However, because I cut the slits in the whole thing, it knocked the lip out of adjustment on the flare. I got the flare reset but still have some more hammering to fix some of the lipping. I'm planning on getting an Eastwood roller and am going to heat that lip, roll it, and try and get it reshaped proper. The passenger side was left in tact so I can use it or measurements and balancing.
Yes, I started the roll before installing. I also did some slits on the INNER lip with mixed results. They made it easier to hammer the metal but did cause the lip to want to "hunch" out at the slits, probably the same thing you saw. If I did it again, I am not sure I would use the slits. I had to do a lot of massaging with the mallet as I went. I got them welded into place, but it was VERY hot and humid back when I was doing it and I had to come back out of the fender, wipe my helmet lens clear and try to weld the next bead on EVERY SINGLE tact. Now that it is cooler and I have the car back up on it's side (I had it flat and level for installing the quarters), I am finishing hammering, welding and grinding the inner lips.
The first pic is from the other night when I was about finished. The second one is pretty ugly but from when I had just finished tacking them together.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg InnerFender.jpg (66.9 KB, 55 views)
File Type: jpg 13645313_726494544164321_5959617995850395590_n.jpg (47.1 KB, 53 views)
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post #26 of 52 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 08:09 AM Thread Starter
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Christmas came early!!

Rolling rear fenders complete. I was able to get slits cut in the wheel house lip and beat it flat with 'the persuader' (aka, a 4lb mallet). The outer lip was cake after that. Also did more metal work. Honestly...the metal work is getting a little old...and tedious. I managed to get both drip rails 'repaired' and I think I'm about 85% done with all the known repairs. I'll snap some photos of those in the next few days when I can make them look a little prettier. I'm SOOOOO ready to be done working metal...

In other news...Santa in the brown sleigh has made several trips to the house effectively delivering the 1st - 7th days of Christmas for me!!

Delivered one set of TTii wheels (4.75 backsapce, 8" wide) with 245/40-r17 Sport Comp2 tires. I'm going to try and get these on the front when the front end is back together. If they dont fit I'll get the next set with 235/45-r17 tires. Shaun (SoT) seemed fairly confident I could get them under there with some fender rolling and creative wheel alignment specs:


What could be in these boxes...are they labeled Street or Track?! I believe they are!! I think my bike is starting to get a little jealous...


Oh look! A menu to order more tasty bits from!! We'll be saving this for later :-D


Those rotors are ginormous!!


The rest of the boxes opened and laid out!!



I need a break from metal work so I think i'll play with the front suspension and brakes a little.
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post #27 of 52 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 10:07 PM
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Nice looking equipment.

Regards,
Patrick
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post #28 of 52 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks but the credit should go to Shaun at SoT. I was thoroughly impressed by the fit and finish of his stuff. Plus he's great people to talk to.

Over the weekend I went through a wire cup brush stripping more paint off. I have more brushes coming. I'm hoping by the end of the weekend I'll have the car devoid of paint. I was on the fence about buying new front fenders vs fixing them but, since it's cold out and I cant spray primer, I'm going to spend some time saving them. I dont think it'll be too bad. I have a stud welder and can pull out the shaping the previous owner messed up. The line behind the fender was done purely with body filler...the underside was flat. I'm pretty sure the previous owner was a sculpture artist with how well they'd hidden the shoddy body work.

Anyway, for a change of pace I mocked up the front suspensions and brakes. Also threw on the wheels to check clearance and fit. I think they'll do fine. I will be pulling it back off though so install the lower camber kit.

Pic's:


going to have to mash the fender lips flat but they'll fit


\

This was a little while ago...it's a little more stripped down but still looks pretty close to this...
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post #29 of 52 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 10:23 AM
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Ditto on Shaun's parts. What size rotors are they? Which springs did you go with? I bought the GT coils. With all the bearings in the suspension so much binding is removed my car actually rides softer now. You'll find a nice smooth ride over bumps and pot holes now. I haven't noticed any more noise or harshness everyone claims you get with solid bearings.

Tom

I'm not a complete idiot, pieces are missing.
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post #30 of 52 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Huskinhano View Post
Ditto on Shaun's parts. What size rotors are they? Which springs did you go with? I bought the GT coils. With all the bearings in the suspension so much binding is removed my car actually rides softer now. You'll find a nice smooth ride over bumps and pot holes now. I haven't noticed any more noise or harshness everyone claims you get with solid bearings.
After a pretty long conversation with Shaun I went with the 13x1.25 rotors w/ the 4 piston brakes. The springs are the performance ones which I believe are a bit softer than the GT. I also have a 1 1/8 sway bar that wasnt in stock but should be here in a few weeks.

It's getting real hard to stay patient on this thing and to not start trying to blast through things. I'm hoping to have the rack and pinion in January and should then be okay to put it on the ground and see how she sits for real. I raised the rear end up with a tire on to see how it would sit and I dont like it. I think it's sitting too high but it's hard to tell with it in the air. There is way too much gap in the between the tire and fender for my taste but I cant make a call on that until it's on the ground and I can bounce on it to get the springs to settle. In all reality...there's a good chance that by the time it's painted, on the road, and driveable...it's probably going to have Shauns full floating rear end...

There's still plenty to do while I wait on stuff. I'm probably going to pick up a couple body lamps and see about spraying the epoxy. My garage is well insulated and Missouri will have runs of 50/60 degree weather over the winter. I figure I can heat my garage up, heat the panels with the lights, open a door, spray with a fan blowing out, close up, and continue heating the panels and be in good shape.
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