Chasers 66 Restomod 408 Coupe - Page 3 - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #31 of 52 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 02:14 PM
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I find the GT springs are very soft with the new set up. A lot softer then stock. I weigh 170 and before I had the Bilstein Sports in, I had plain old Monroe stock replacements in. Just sitting on the front fender I would bottom the suspension out pretty much.

I'm on the fence about the inner rockers. I'm 6', I don't want to loose any head room and with the seat pan I think I would give up more then I want to. I wonder how effective the whole system would be without the seat pan or even if it was sectioned to allow the seats to fit lower how much rigidity would be given up? Did you trim the inner rockers so you could install them without cutting open the foot well and just install them from the inside I know Shaun cut his foot wells open and slid them in from the front fenders.

I'd love to do brakes too but it's no where near in the budget right now. I know Shaun and spoke about brakes. I was going to run the 13" as I was planning to go to 17" wheels but that also took a budget hit and I've resided out of need to stick with my 15" wheels for now. Shaun told me the 13" brakes outsell the 12" by quite a bit. I would think the 12" would be a pretty powerful set up as well.

Tom

I'm not a complete idiot, pieces are missing.
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post #32 of 52 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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I did cut a slot open for the inner rockers to slide through. My car did not have front torque boxes so it made more sense to just open the floor pan, slide them through, and then put the convertible torque boxes in. No muss...no fuss. On the passenger side the rear tb was fine so I did have to get a little creative with the inner rocker mating it to the tb. On the drivers side, replacing the tb with the convertible one greatly simplified that step. I also think that having them protrude through the floor and then welding them solid to the torque box would be more solid.

You will lose some rigidity if you cut up the riser. This was something I thought about a lot. I have (currently) no intention of lowering my seating position cause I'm 5'8" so it fits me well. However, I dont think you're going to lose enough to really notice. All things being equal though, to get the maximum rigidness, I'd probably do one of two things...

A) modify the vert riser lowering the seats accordingly. Then add 1/8" piece on the front and rear portions that were modified up to the hump area. That should add some of that back

B) Modify stock risers to fit with the vert rockers and then add a joining piece between the two pans

Take this with a grain of salt...i'm not a structural engineer.

Also...budgets suck...i keep blowing mine month to month :-D
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post #33 of 52 (permalink) Old 02-01-2017, 09:41 AM Thread Starter
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Figured I should put in an update here. There's not a lot of 'great' things to report.

I spent a couple of weeks trying to save the front fenders from the previous owners hack job. However the patches I got from NPD were a little different in how they contoured to the wheel arch. They also didnt' match the back of the fender well either. Add that with the support being pretty well trashed and the headlight bucket openings being trashed and I decided it best to get new fenders (please dont thrash me for that).

The passenger side door was kind of the same scenario. As I was sanding it down I noticed a little spot on the underside of the door. A little sanding later and I hit a flury of body filler. The previous owner had "sculpted" the underside of the door...which was pretty well gone. He/she also managed to sculpt into the weatherstrip guide. To the point you'd really have no idea it was just filler. I mean...this dude was a master of the bondo. Regardless, it's out of my realm of capability to fix it so I added that to the order of new stuff. All of which arrived Monday!



I also took some time to attempt a fix for the hack job on the radio slot in the dash. I'm planning on putting a few switches into this area and putting a radio under the dash in a console to be designed and built later. The switches will be things like an electric fan override, fuel pump shutoff, dump out toggles, etc.



I dont have a ton of tools at my disposal and can weld reasonably well...so i cut out a piece to a little bigger than the slot to be repaired...I then cut it in half so I could create the 90 degree rounded area to match the contour of the dash



I then welded it back together. I think it worked out pretty dang well. I still need to do some finish welding and filler in some of the welded joints but overall...i'm happy





I rebuilt the hinges this week, "repaired" the drip rails, and generally performed some more cut and splice work on the body.

Whats next...
* i'm waiting on the sway bar to finish the front suspension. I've been in contact with Shaun from SoT but it seems the bar is backordered but should be shipping soon...at least I hope
* This weekend a buddy of mine is coming over to help me dry fit panels. The expectation is that, by the end of the day Saturday, the shell should be mostly assembled so I can see how good / bad some of the fitment is. Cursory review of the door shows that it should fit pretty well. The wildcards on the panels...I'm putting an R front valance, fiberglass 67 hood, and a fiberglass spoiled deck lid. That deck lid might get abandoned because, frankly, the extensions fit TERRIBLY. The passenger side is a full half inch too long...the contours arent even really that close. So i'm probably going to put it up for sale on the local craigslist and try to get some of my money back out.
* I'll be putting in an order to TCP to get a manual rack and pinion with bump steer kit.
* Picking up the 408 short block in a few weeks as well

I was originally planning on spraying epoxy and doing most of the body work myself. However, I have an attached garage and I hear epoxy primer is especially bad for you. So I'm shooting to have this thing at my body guy early March....where he'll point out all the things I messed up :-D
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post #34 of 52 (permalink) Old 02-07-2017, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
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It was a pretty good weekend. I got the new panels set on the car to check for fitment. All in all...not bad. They'll need a little tweaking and fine tuning but overall, i'm pretty happy.

The fiberglass hood fit...well...like a fiberglass hood ergo, not very good but it shouldnt be hard to touch up. I also put in the radiator, hood pins, started mocking the front end, set the car on the ground and rolled it outside so she could see some sunlight.

Outside:


Front:


I know some things are crooked...nothing is bolted down hard and it'll all get taken apart over the next week anyhow to add all new hardware. I also did some fiberglass filler work on some of the welded joints. I'm not going to get too crazy with it though. I want my body guy to have the final say.

On the docket for this week:
- pull the front fenders, apron, and pretty much everything else
- add new hardware (hopefully being delivered from NPD Thursday)
- put it back together...hopefully the last time before going to the body shop
- begin replacing the tail light panel
- fit the GT rear valance

I have officially pulled the fiberglass deck lid. The extensions fit like poo and I just didnt like the look of it after it was on the car. It started to look like a bastardized Slomaro in my opinion. So if anyones in the market for one, let me know.
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post #35 of 52 (permalink) Old 02-07-2017, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chaser012001 View Post

Here's the cabin with the vert inner rockers and seat riser installed. There's a little more cleanup to do in this area but overall, i'm pleased:


Great work!

Quick question. What does the convertible seat riser do that the coupe seat riser doesn't?

Thanks!

Rusty

1965 Coupe, Caspian blue, A code 4 speed. Started project fall 1993, hopefully back on the road Spring 2017!
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post #36 of 52 (permalink) Old 02-07-2017, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by rusty1161 View Post
Great work!

Quick question. What does the convertible seat riser do that the coupe seat riser doesn't?

Thanks!

Rusty
The convertible riser creates a rigid structure between the two inner rocker pieces. It's a single, solid piece. I'm not sure how much flexing those inner rockers do since they are heavy tubular steel, but if they were to flex at all, the convertible rocker would eliminate it.

Whereas the coupe seat risers are 2 individual pieces that wouldnt create as much (if at all) additional rigidity. Make sense?

The shorter answer is...probably nothing / not much but add piece of mind
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post #37 of 52 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
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Progress has been slow and steady lately. I received and installed the rack and pinion from TCP. It was crazy simple to put in and bolted right up. They did have 2 clamps that were mislabeled. They had the drivers clamp labeled as the passenger and vice versa. Not a big deal. I was somewhat concerned it wasnt going to work since i put in a lower camber kit but it bolted right up with no issues. Might have actually been easier because I put in the lower camber kit I didnt have to grind the lip off the bottom of the LCA mounts. The clamp will make changing the LCA plates a little bit of a pain though. Oh well...probably just do that once or twice anyway.

Here's the rack roughed in. I am waiting on the tie rods and bump steer kit which should be coming tomorrow.



It's pretty great being able to go lock to lock in about 2.5 turns...should get it close to a goKart like feel.
The steering column is going to come out again though. I have procured, what I believe to be, the parts to put in an EPAS. I have a Prius steering column and control module inbound from Ebay. I'm hoping to get that in this weekend so I can start prepping the dash and interior pieces for paint. I'd like to have it painted in the next couple of weeks.

I spent a good majority of yesterday replacing the tail light panel. The lower part of it, where the bumper mounts, was pretty mangled up. Looks like the PO had tried to replace it at one point and the job didnt pass muster. I'm about 90% done installing the original ford tooling one. It fits and looks a LOT better than the previous attempt. Hoping to also have that wrapped up this weekend.

Since it was a nice weekend, my dad got his car out (the one i finished September 2016) and took a couple photos for me. I still need to get up there and do a couple things (tune the carb, set timing, couple wiring things) to make it 100%.



Last edited by chaser012001; 02-20-2017 at 09:05 AM.
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post #38 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-05-2017, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
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Received the bump steer kit...however it was missing the billet adapters. Not a big deal...a quick correspondence with TCP and they had them here within a couple days. I have them installed however they are not adjusted. I want to wait until the engine, alignment, etc is done before going through the adjusting of the bump steer stuff. I'll detail that when the time comes.

Also heard from my engine builder. The short block went into the assembly room late last week so it should be done soon. Hoping this week so I can shift gears so to speak. I've also been in contact with modern driveline about a auto to manual conversion.

Now for the bad stuff...I'm really close to being done with metal work. However the GT valance has other plans. I fit it to the car and it's nowhere near close to fitting. I'm going to have to cut the ends off and add some patches to get it to fit right. I'll play around with that if I get some time this week.

Pics of the badness:
Passenger side


Drivers side


Rear with the new tail light panel
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post #39 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-05-2017, 10:39 PM
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I have finally finished building a 66 convertible for my dad and can get back to working on my car. I bought this car in 2010 and, over the years, made some light fixes here and there. I've replaced the passenger back half of the frame rail, front suspension, misc hoses and gaskets to make it into a serviceable driver.

Then I decided to build the vert for my dad since he'd always wanted one (i think he was a little jealous of my coupe ) and had to store this one for the last couple years. Until now...

The plan for this car is as follows:

Chassis (first)
- measure the frame for straightness and correct as needed
- replace rear torque boxes (possibly the entire frame rails from the tb's back...will be making a jig for this)
- repair / replace front frame sections as needed
- inner rockers and seat pedestal from a 66 vert
- front tb's from a 67
- fix rust as i come across it

Steering, brakes, wheels (second)
- unisteer power rack (street or track)
- ididit steering column in an effort to try and eliminate the 'harpoon' steering box
- 13" disc brakes w/ dual bowl master cylinder...debating on going Wilwood or SoT for the calipers / kit
- rims...17" tbd on style...probably 8" wide on the rear (or 9's if i can fit them) and 7" on the front...MAYBE roll the fender lips a little

Front suspension (third)
- SoT tubular UCA / LCA and adjustable rods
- roller perches (opentracker)
---- already have done a UCA drop and have 620 1" lowering springs

This order is TBD
Transmission
- T5 conversion w/ hydraulic clutch

Rear
- Ford 9" w/ TruTrac and 3.80 gears...maybe 3.55 depending on the cam decision below
- I MIGHT add a watts link but I'll evaluate that after i can drive it

Engine
- Smedding short block
- AFR 205 - full roller rockers
- RPM Intake
- QuickFuel carb
- MSD 6AL box
- aluminum radiator w/ electric fans
- cam custom grind - tbd
- side exhaust w/ shelby skirts

That's the plan for the time being and will be done in stages. I'm estimating the total build to take about 2 years depending on how well the car cooperates with me. All of this is subject to change so...ride along with me and we'll have some fun!!

Here is how she sits now...


For inquiring minds...here are some pics of the convertible...
Before:


New interior:


I'm the ugly one in the back...

How do you insert the pictures into the post large like that? mine will not allow me to do that or to even attach them not. keeps saying its to large?
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post #40 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-06-2017, 08:11 AM
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I'm dealing with the same problem with my rear valence.

Please post up some step by step pics as you fix yours...need all the help I can get.


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post #41 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-06-2017, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
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How do you insert the pictures into the post large like that? mine will not allow me to do that or to even attach them not. keeps saying its to large?
I import my photos into photobucket (organized into a specific library for various projects).
I then navigate to the picture i want to post (in photobucket).
On the right hand side of the screen (in photobucket) you'll see 4 fields
* Email & IM
* Direct
* HTML
* IMG

Click on the 'IMG' text box and, in my case, it'll automatically copy the link. You then paste that into the post your writing up. Remove everything in the pasted section EXCEPT for whats encapsulated in the [IMG] [/IMG] tags. Ergo, remove the [URL]http://blablah in the first half and the [\URL] at the very end. If you leave it in it wont effect the image population but it'll leave that block of text in your post and it wont look quite as cool.

Hopefully that explains it?
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post #42 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-06-2017, 09:00 AM Thread Starter
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I'm dealing with the same problem with my rear valence.

Please post up some step by step pics as you fix yours...need all the help I can get.


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Absolutely!! Hopefully i'll get a chance to start on it this evening. Afterward, if you have any questions, feel free to send me a PM.
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post #43 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-06-2017, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by chaser012001 View Post
The convertible riser creates a rigid structure between the two inner rocker pieces. It's a single, solid piece. I'm not sure how much flexing those inner rockers do since they are heavy tubular steel, but if they were to flex at all, the convertible rocker would eliminate it.

Whereas the coupe seat risers are 2 individual pieces that wouldnt create as much (if at all) additional rigidity. Make sense?

The shorter answer is...probably nothing / not much but add piece of mind
I mainly used one for the rigidity but it also lowers the seat about an inch. More headroom and easier to fit taller seats in there.

Coyote build in 65 GT Fastback on the rotisserie
F150 SCREW Ecoboost as my daily
66 Emberglow Coupe first car,71 Torino GT, 82 Fastback slooooow 6 banger, 71 Boss 351, 85 GT all long gone
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post #44 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
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Please post up some step by step pics as you fix yours...need all the help I can get.
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"Finished" the metal work portion of fitting the rear valance this evening. I put that in quotes because I'm on the fence about welding the whole thing to the car versus keeping the gaps. I'm inclined to weld it to the car since I'm planning on blending the fender extensions to remove those gaps as well. Decision for a later day.

Onward!
First thing I did was separate the ends from the valance. I used a body say (fancy name for a air reciprocating saw) to keep as much of the valance as possible. I did this so I could keep the edge without having to get fancy with it. I then tacked the edge to the car. That way i could sure up the gaps the way i want...and I only have 2 hands...


Then it was just a matter of cutting metal to fill the gap. I did a small section at the bottom first since i was having trouble keeping the valance where I wanted it to appropriately fill the gap. I used a 90* grinder w/ 36 grit rolocs to shape the edges to fit.



Weld up the rest of the gap. If you're a mediocre welder like me, you'll have a lot to grind off...


I also relocated the mounting brackets on the inside. Drill out spot welds, mount to car, weld tabs to valance.
The other side wasnt nearly as bad but followed a similar plan. I didnt have to cut pieces to fill. The gap was close enough that I could just fill with wire.


I also ran a light under the welded gaps to make sure it was all welded. After I epoxy prime it I'll smooth it out with some fiberglass filler. I'm going to do some more smoothing work but I ran out of rolocs...

In other news...sounds like I'll be picking the block up this week. Which spawned a pre-emptive call to Summit. Santa in the brown sleigh dropped off round 1 of the order. I'll be putting in another order this week for ignition system, wiring, brakes, and to finish off the cooling system

Last edited by chaser012001; 03-12-2017 at 08:35 PM.
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post #45 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 10:10 PM
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Thanks. That is a great way to do it. Glad you posted it because I wouldn't have thought of it on my own.




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