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67 Coupe Restomod build

10K views 69 replies 13 participants last post by  Je942010 
#1 ·
I restored this car with my grandfather when I was 12 years old (29 now) about 5 years after completing the restoration my grandfather passed. The car sat for some time and about 9 years ago I aquired it from my grandmother. While sitting she developed some small leaks and I couldn't bring myself to putting any money into the anemic little 6 cylinder. I've dealt with sliding an oil pan under it in the garage for the time I've had it and over the summer my amazing wife told me to go ahead and do what I want with it this winter. I'll post some pics of where it was when I started and post my progress as I'm going. Hoping by spring time everything is done.

Work to be done is:
306 with frpp Gt40x aluminum heads, e303 cam, Quick Fuel 650ss carb, Edelbrock rpm air gap intake, MSD Pro Billet with 6al box, frpp high performance roller lifters and push rods, scorpion 1.6 roller rockers, canton racing t sump pan
3 core aluminum radiator with electric fan
Serpentine setup with 3G alternator
Ford powertrain applications (FPA) long tube step headers with Flowmaster American thunder 2.5" exhaust with super 44's and electric cutouts.
T5z with spec stage 2 clutch and steeda tri ax shifter
Modern driveline hydraulic clutch setup
Modern driveline t5 crossmember
9 inch rear end with 3.50 trac loc
Viking double adjustable coilovers up front with Viking double adjustable shocks in rear
14" Foresight Drag mags with 235/60 in rear and 215/60 up front
CSRP manual 4 piston K/H style brakes in front and 10x2.5 inch brakes in rear( thanks Jeff 66hertzclone)
Global west subframe connectors

Interior
Switching everything to black
Procar rally seats
TMI 1 piece headliner
New dash and knee pad
New door panels
New gauge cluster from kens classic mustang gauges

That should just about round out what the plan is for now but I haave a while I'm in there mentality so if I see something that needs a freshening up once I start diggin in that will be dealt with. Hoping to be done by the end of March. Can't wait to get started. My daughter which is 5 and my son who will be 3 in February are going to be my helpers on the project which makes it that much sweeter for me.
 
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#7 ·
Well it's been a while since I started this thread so I figure it's time for an update. I removed the original 4 lug rear end from the car with the help of a sawzall due to the front eye bolts being seized to the sleeves.



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#8 ·
Theses blades were by far the best blades I have ever used. 1 blade made all 4 cuts in less than 10 minutes.


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#9 ·
In my free time on my lunches an breaks I assembled my 9 inch rear end. It is set up with a 3.50 trac lok center section, lubelocker centersection gasket, stock 28 spline axles that I pressed new bearings and studs onto. New axle seals and were installed and then came the 10x2.5" drum brakes (thanks Jeff).



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#10 ·
Next came time to start on stripping and prepping the bottom of the car for the global west subframe connectors and paint. I didn't get any good pics of either of these. For the paint I did a base of por15 followed up by 3 coats on satin black VHT roll bar and chassis paint.


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#11 ·
After That was all dried and cured I installed my new 3/8 sending unit and 3/8 2 piece line. Having already installed the subframe connectors made this a fun task. I ended up having to clearance the frame with a 3 lb hammer and punch to make a little more room for the fuel line. I also had to make new holes for the clips being that my car originally had the fuel lines down the tunnel.


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#12 ·
I had to order new wheels after taking some measurements and realizing that the wheels I was planning on using were a 14x7 with 2.75" back spacing so they weren't going to work for me. I ordered a set of torque thrust 2 wheels 14x6 up front and 14x7 for the rear with the correct back spacing.


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#13 ·
Finally tonight I was able to get the rear end under the car and complete the rear suspension setup along with getting the tailpipes in place. I ended up going with the Calvert racing split mono leafs with a 1" drop along with they're caltracs. The stock shackles were pretty pitted so I ordered a set of energy suspension heavy duty shackles.



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#17 ·
Made a little more progress last night after the family went to bed. Plugged the holes for the heater lines in the firewall, scuffed and sanded any spots that needed some attention, and hit everything with some wax and grease remover. After that I taped and masked the front half of the car.



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#18 ·
After I had all the taping done I covered all the electrical with some aluminum foil and used a bungee as a bridge to keep it from touching anything. Once I was happy with all the prep I hit I with 3 coats of satin black VHT roll bar and chassis paint.



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#19 ·
I have to wait for my front fuel lines to show up but in the meantime I'm hoping to break down the front suspension and replace anything that needs it along with the Viking coilover install, 1 1/8 sway bar and disc brake setup. Hoping to have the hydraulic clutch , brakes and front suspension complete before I drop the motor in.


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#21 ·
Put the intake, fuel pump, alternator distrubutor, pulleys and valve covers on the motor today. Mocked up the carb and found that im going to have to relocate my fuel pressure gauge due to interference with the valve cover. Pulled the gauge off the carb feed line and put in a brass plug. Also set up the wiring harness for the 130 amp 3g alternator yesterday. Hoping to be ready to drop it in within the next week or 2.


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#22 ·
Made some more progress last night and today. Got the Shelby drop completed along with refinishing the inner fenders. Also installed the Viking coilovers and 1 1/8" sway bar. Once I was finished with the suspension I installed the CSRP 4 piston disc brake kit. Can't thank Dennis enough for all the help he gave me through the install. Now I'm waiting on the new speedometer cable, front parking brake cable and front brake lines and the I'll be ready to set the engine/ transmission and start working on the new interior.



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#25 ·
Package showed up from CJ's today with front brake lines and other parts I was waiting on. While I was waiting I hit the raw master cylinder with 3 coats of clear to try and keep it from rusting. Bench bled it and got it ready to drop in. Finished installing the front brake lines, completed the CSRP kit. Installed the front parking brake cable and found I had some clearance issues on the pivot arm and my global west subframe connectors. Ended up pulling it off and grinding it down a little bit and everything is working now. After that I installed the clutch master cylinder. I ended up running out of time to hook up both pedals and start bleeding the brakes. Hopefully I will be able to get all the small things buttoned up/brakes bled and be ready to set the motor and trans next week. I ended up changing the mufflers that I'm going to use. I ordered a set of Borla's crate mufflers that I'll be putting in place of the super 44's. Still planning on using the stainless 2.5" pipe that came with the flowmaster kit.



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#26 ·
Managed to get the motor and trans installed tonight. The motor and transmission mounts were energy suspension pieces and a modern driveline crossmember was used on the trans. Everything went together very smooth and I couldn't be happier. I'm going to have to do some height adjustments on the coilovers and set them a little higher than I have them now.



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#28 · (Edited)
Ran into a little snag last night when I was trying to install my FPA headers. Has nothing to do with the way the headers were built it was the design of the energy motor mounts. They have a large "clamshell " that encapsulates the poly that has a flange and bolt on the top. The issue I was running into was that the #1 exhaust tube was contacting the mount about 1" before I could get the header to the cylinder head. I have a set of Lakewood muscle mounts on the way so they should be here today sometime.


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