Dyeguy1212's 1964.5 260 Mustang - Build/Restore Thread - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-10-2017, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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Been picking away at the clean-up and painting process, it's been a slow go. Hot tanked the heads at work, then pulled the valves and cleaned them up the best I could. Put in new valve seals. Nothing was in too bad of shape. Down the road I'll probably have the guides, seats, and valves redone, but for now I'm just looking to get her back on the road.

Semigloss black on the head/block/intake (also had to do the oil breather/filler tube and dip stick tube, because they had some surface rust). Stripping the paint on the valve covers and repainting light ford blue. I wanted to replace them (flanges pretty bent), but it's proven difficult to find valve covers with no breather or fill holes.

Bought a new oil pan from CJ Pony (Scott Drake), and the flanges are way more hashed than my original, so I'm going to let her ride despite the big dent in the front.

Took delivery on the rest of the stuff (gaskets, oil pump, oil pick up, rad hoses, etc etc etc). After I get this intake and valve covers painted, its time to deal with the rear main and slam it back together.
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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 01:53 PM
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I had really good luck with the Summit Racing stock pans!

1969 Mustang Convertible field find (It's a 450hp spaghetti noodle)
www.SaveClassicCars.net

"The problem is not the problem, the problem is your attitude about the problem"

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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 07:21 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by happystang View Post
I had really good luck with the Summit Racing stock pans!

Funny you say that. That was my original plan, but I coworker had an issue with one they ordered from them.

Can't be worse than the scott drake I received, I think I'll take a chance with Summit, thanks.
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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by happystang View Post
I had really good luck with the Summit Racing stock pans!
Bingo. Can't believe the quality of the Summit pan I received earlier this week. Blows the Scott Drake out of the water, and it was cheaper too. Thanks.
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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 01:16 PM
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Bingo. Can't believe the quality of the Summit pan I received earlier this week. Blows the Scott Drake out of the water, and it was cheaper too. Thanks.
Glad to hear it worked out!

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post #21 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
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Finally got everything painted, cleaned up, and reassembled over the past month. Absolute TON of work getting 50 years worth of grime off all of these parts.

Everything went back together smoothly, other than a few hiccups. I didn't deburr the block like Felpro suggests, so I destroyed a rear main seal sliding it into place. Engine had the original rope-style rear main, which was a nightmare to get out. Had to loosen all the caps and really persuade it to come out. One timing cover hole was stripped, and I lost a water pump bolt somehow.

Other than that, it's just praying that she runs good.

Going to step away from the drivetrain to install the dual master, new brakelines, and new brake hardware. Then it's time for the trans rebuild.
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post #22 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-27-2017, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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Been slowly working on some misc projects, namely brakes (new brake lines, new dual master, new wheel cylinders). Brake hardware looked like new, other than the LR drum has some deep grooves. I'll replace when I have more money.

Transmission is out for a rebuild, 600 including new TC.

Engine bay is taped off and ready to be painted. Using Magnet Paint's Chassis Saver in Antique Satin Black. Plan to use reach up into the cowl top hats and get a good amount of rust encapsulating paint on the exterior and interior surfaces. Surprisingly, the top hats cowl vents are in good condition. Replaced the defrost plenum, and torndown the heater box when replacing the heatercore. Put in some new (home depot) seals.. eventually I'll buy the seal kit.

Once the engine bay is painted and the trans is complete, she's ready to run and stop
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post #23 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-27-2017, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
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Heaterbox/heatercore/cowl vent top hats
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Last edited by dyeguy1212; 04-27-2017 at 11:32 AM.
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post #24 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-27-2017, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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Cool model I got at the flea market for 20 buck, still in the original plastic wrap. Pretty sweet that it's set up exactly like my car on the box (minus the 289 badge ). Haven't decided if I'm going to open it.. probably not worth any money, and it'd be cool to paint the model with the same paint I put on the car.
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post #25 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-27-2017, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
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Prepping for engine bay paint
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post #26 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 08:10 AM Thread Starter
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Engine and trans back in. Found out the C4 trans is from a 73, which was sort of a bummer. I was hoping it was original.

Runs awesome. Threw some timing at it, and now it just wants to run. Have a very small tick, suspecting a lifter or exhaust. Going to check the exhaust tonight, and if that doesn't fix it, hopefully a little Marvel Mystery Oil or Sea Foam in the oil will clear it up.

Despite the new radiator, hoses, heater core, etc, I decided to run some Motorcraft coolant flush with distilled water for the first ~hour of garage running, as the passageways in the block were scaled up pretty bad.

Cold oil pressure was around 50-60, hot oil pressure was 15-20. Very happy to hear it run. Also happy to see it shifts and the brakes hold

Need to adjust the shifter linkage, seems a little off. There's very little movement required to shift between gears; I suspect the console shifter is pretty worn out.
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post #27 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-15-2017, 08:18 AM Thread Starter
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YouTube link to it starting and running:

https://youtu.be/4EqGZlxz5f4
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