Dyeguy1212's 1964.5 260 Mustang - Build/Restore Thread - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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Dyeguy1212's 1964.5 260 Mustang - Build/Restore Thread

Hey everyone, copying over some information from my introduction post, and adding a little bit more. (Finally) starting to dive into this project, life always seems to get in the way.


Here's the story:
Dearborn built car, need to look at the VIN again but I want to say it was around the 66,XXX car built. Still need to look for some date codes.

My uncle (and God Father) bought this car at auction. Supposedly this car sat for a few decades, I'm not sure the last time it was on the road. A lawyer bought it for his two sons to restore; I guess they lost interest and they stored it for another 10 years. My uncle bought it, who owns a collision shop. He replaced a couple bad panels, and they got it running again with just a carb rebuild. Paint and epoxy primer as you see in the pictures.


I bought the car from him after he determined the extent of the mechanical work it needs. It is assumed the C4 trans needs a rebuild (no fluid in trans, didn't even try to see what it would do). Brakes need to be gone through, but everything looks to be in good condition. Rear diff, oil pan, trans pan, radiator all leak.

There are some stray wires in the cabin and engine compartment. Came across a pretty old quote from a repair shop, and one of the issues that stood out was "homemade wiring". Should be fun to sort all of that out.


Interior needs some love, mostly just the headliner and dash pad. The rest will come with time. Only "real" rust is a hole in each of the rear wheel wells. Pretty low priority for me at this point.


Someone converted to an alternator (NO idea if it was done correctly). I'd like to swap back to a generator to keep the 64.5 vibe, but may end up with the generator-clone alternator.


Planned to replace the radiator and run the engine to temp, take oil pressure readings, etc. Now its looking like I'm just going to dive in, pull the engine and trans, and give everything a good visual inspection. I don't suspect it has low oil pressure, and unless this thing was realllly tired, I have no intention of a full rebuild (right now). Just going to pull heads, inspect cylinder walls, cam shaft, lifters, etc. If no big issues, she's getting new head gaskets (my main concern on a 50 year old car) and being run as is.

On the fence about rebuilding the C4 myself - it really just comes down to time and money; I think I could do it myself. Going to call a few local places before I make a decision.

Some pictures I've posted before as below. I'll add some new ones too.
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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More pictures
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 10:49 AM
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Welcome nice project.
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
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2016_12_27 Status Update (1)

Getting a little work done this week. God father helped me get a new (OE) dash pad as a Christmas present, so that should be here shortly. Spent a couple hours removing the old one, which had turned to goo under the vinyl. Defrost ducts were toast, so replacements are on the way as well.

Original speaker was all rotted out, but still pretty cool looking. The old radio shack logo on the speaker had me smiling. Also found an old match book from a Holiday Inn in TN. Pretty funny to see computer-based room booking advertised. I plan to keep it in the ash tray, the era-specific secrets this car holds is my favorite part of the project.
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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2016_12_27 Status Update (2)

Also stared to unbutton the engine last night, in prep for removal. Being very careful about labeling things and taking pictures, as the last SBC 350 swap I did was a nightmare (due to my laziness in tearing out the old one).

Couple things I found throughout the night:
-RH exhaust manifold has a visibly huge crack
- Flood boards just behind the front wheel on both sides have some Aluminum patch work riveted in. They used some sort of tar type seam sealer.
- Also found Aluminum patch work on RH read floor board, riveted in

My plan is to replace the carpet next winter, so apparently I'll be welding in new floor pans at that time too. It's okay for now.

Dog is my buddy's (who helped me pull aforementioned 350, and will be worked into the ground on this project).
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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That's better. Dash from CJ Pony (Dashes Direct). Good quality.
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 07:28 PM
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Coming along nicely. Think there's a build sheet anywhere in the car? If the floors were patched, probably an issue or two with the cowl. You rellay want to get that dealt with before paint or new carpet!
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-05-2017, 08:09 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geicoman58 View Post
Coming along nicely. Think there's a build sheet anywhere in the car? If the floors were patched, probably an issue or two with the cowl. You rellay want to get that dealt with before paint or new carpet!


I haven't found it yet, still hoping to.


I was talking to a guy at work yesterday about his 66, and he was telling me that there is a drain on each cowl end that can get blocked/rust that can lead to rust on each floor board behind the front wheel. I need to do some more research.
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-05-2017, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dyeguy1212 View Post
2016_12_27 Status Update (1)

Getting a little work done this week. God father helped me get a new (OE) dash pad as a Christmas present, so that should be here shortly.
lol....Had to imagine the dash pad manufacturer getting an offer he couldn't refuse!
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-05-2017, 10:07 AM Thread Starter
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lol....Had to imagine the dash pad manufacturer getting an offer he couldn't refuse!


Lol, not that kind of help. He pitched in
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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
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Engine came out this past weekend. This car absolutely fell apart.. U joint straps came unbottoned easy, hardline hoses unscrewed easy, engine came off the mounts very easy. Only casualty were the motor mounts, the rubber came apart from the metal.

Not used to working on cars that don't fight back!
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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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Few more pictures. Plenty of zip locks so I can put this thing back together months from now. Engine is on the stand, hitting the exhaust manifold bolts with PB for a week or so until I start tearing into it.

Trans fluid was good and red, which was a relief.

Protip: make sure your Harbor Freight engine hoist will extend all the way up BEFORE starting to pull the engine. We had some air in the ram, and the engine was literally 1 inch from clearing the core support when it quit on us. Had to let the air out of the tires and pull the engine 45 degrees from center to get it out!

Protip 2: Wait until the outside temps are above 10F to do this job! Propane heater was working OT.
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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by dyeguy1212 View Post
Protip 2: Wait until the outside temps are above 10F to do this job! Propane heater was working OT.
I was getting ready to ask about the heavy coats! I was welding in my new k member Sat and it was 11 degrees outside so I was fairly bundled myself. That big propane blower would get it up to a balmy 70 in the shop and then it would be back to a chilly 40 before it would automatically kick back on...just a short time in between where it was really comfortable.

I would run a bead with the welder then huddle around the glowing metal as it gave up it's heat.
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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-24-2017, 08:55 AM Thread Starter
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I finally got the opportunity to start tearing into the engine. We had some 50 degree days over the weekend, so I broke out the power washer and cleaned up the engine and transmission as much as I could. I could not believe the amount of crap baked onto these things.

Found ďBuilt for (illegible) 12/1/(illegible)Ē in sharpie on the transmission. I wonder if itís been rebuilt in the past.

Engine teardown was a breeze, only real hang up was the oil pump to distributor shaft was stuck in the distributor. Really had to knock the hell out of it. Otherwise, it was a dream to work on, just the same as the engine removal.

Glad I chose to tear it down, there is quite a bit of sludge. Cylinder walls look great, little bit of ring ridge. Since I wonít be removing the cylinders, and this little 260 wonít be making much power anyway, Iím not going to teardown any further.

Plan to hot tank the heads and intake, paint everything but the valve covers black, and reassemble with fresh Felpro gaskets, and new melling oil pump and pick up, new water pump, and new seals. Decided to try to knock the dent out of the oil pan, instead of hoping for a repop that doesnít leak. Valves are pretty gummed up, I'll be removing, cleaning, and resealing as well.

For those wondering, the build tag on the engine was : 4F11
The casting number on the block was : C40E-6015E
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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 01-24-2017, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
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Only thing I didn't get to last night was lifter removal and cam shaft inspection. From what I can see, the camshaft looks fine.
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