1970 base 302 Fastback Resto (mod) - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
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1970 base 302 Fastback Resto (mod)

Well, I suppose having now got a Mustang, (see here: WTB - 69 F/B - Up to $20K Budget ) I thought I'd better start a build thread (albeit not much'll happen initially, as my bank balance needs to cool off a bit!!.

So, on to the car...

A 1970, base model, 302ci auto fastback Mustang, it was imported to the UK about a month back by the guy I bought it from, who got it from an estate sale in Marshall, Texas. The last US owner (Edward Allen) had it since 1995 (Previous Owner to him was someone called Danny Manning). Considering the state of the underside it'd spent some time in a field before then. First thing I did after I paid for it was source a Marti Report - here:



Despite Calypso Coral actually being the colour it is painted now, it's had a (really poor) respray at some point and a fair bit of bodywork (similarly poor). What was interesting is that it was an original AC and PAS car - which are both long gone. Currently it's been converted to a bit of a street/strip car, with Center-Line Alloys, a B&M Shifter, Pro-Light Tach, 429 Shelby hood scoop (replica), Traction bars and what looks like a Gearbox oil cooler (may keep that). The engine also sounds rather fruity, so there's a pretty lumpy cam in there, plus the exhaust stops about mid-way (LOUD!!).

It's arrival (with somewhat dubious footage, but my Wife was also making sure I didn't hit anyone!) is here:

https://youtu.be/3ykSZS1QCuY

Photos here:












I also had to spend the first few hours after arrival clearing the Wasp nest that had been constructed underneath:




So far I know it's got a very rusty cowl (unsurprising), pin-holed tail light panel, lap-welded lower quarter-panel replacements, new floor-pans (but also poorly installed) and possibly new fenders and doors. The frame rails and Torque boxes and other body panels seem ok, but overall I'm not too concerned, as my plan was always to fully gut it, then build it back up with an eye to doing a Resto-mod. Originality is therefore not a critical concern and this car has already lost much of its anyway, so it's not like i'm doing it to a Mach 1 or something that will lose a lot of value.

Saying that I want to keep the car looking as original as possible (inside and Out) or modified in a way that looks original in appearance.

The Plan! (doesn't really deserve capital letters):

Initially, as said, progress will be slow, but the outline will be to go as follows:

- Initial Inspection/Immediate work - Over the next few months I'll just be getting to know the car and identifying what work is needed. May get it registered and on the road, but suspect it'll be too much work just now - will see!
- Strip-down - catalogue and inspect - look to identify what bodywork needs doing - expect a LOT of questions from me of the 'what is', 'where should', 'How can' and 'Help!' variety!
- Bodywork - will have to out-source this - as you can see, I have a drive, and that's it! At the same time I will get a lot of reinforcement done to shock towers and structure, plus preparing for future mods wherever possible.
- Renovate - while the car's away for bodywork, I plan to restore/renovate all the bits I've stripped off, ready for re-assembly, plus source the bits i'm missing.
- Paint - out-sourced too - luckily there's a very good painter just a few miles away from me. Intended colour is new Mustang Magnetic (love it)
- Re-assemble - back to a largely stock form just now, using the bits i've already renovated.
- Resto-Mod - once the car is on the road and running, I will start to gradually work through it and upgrade over time - focusing on suspension, powertrain and brakes.

The main thing is to get it back on the road and driving as soon as possible once Body and Paint are done. I don't want this thing up on bricks on my drive for years - obviously time will tell, and I will be learning as I go, so any advice/guidance is welcome (especially if you see me doing something daft!!).

Last edited by Mike-Mac; 02-19-2017 at 02:51 PM.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017, 04:07 PM
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Excellent choice. I have enjoyed restomoding my Boss.

1970 302 Boss, (Clone)
2016 Coyote with a T56 and a few other mods. "Keeping it stock."
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-05-2017, 12:35 PM Thread Starter
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Update #1

Other than a lot of time getting my blast cabinet sorted and ready (and starting to strip and renovate the air cleaner)...









... I've now managed to capitalise on the breaks in the weather on Saturday to get started on the initial strip/assessment.

First, I did a bit of digging in the engine bay and confirmed my suspicion that the engine isn't very standard! There's a 4BBl Holley Carb on there (original was a 2BBl), an Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold (not sure which one) and what look suspiciously like short tube exhaust headers!:







(can anyone provide a bit more on what specifically this Carb and Intake might be?

On less bright news, I found that the screenwash bottle had been converted into a coolant overflow tank and what was in there was pretty foul:



While I want to install an overflow tank (good idea mechanically) I also want my screen-wash back and it looks like i'll need to re-plumb the whole system as it seems to have 'gone'! I'll need to investigate further, but that's a job for another day...

Then, I started looking into the wiring, in particular the lighting, as I want to assess whether I can do the UK conversion easily. Current plan is convert the headlights to UK halogens, which I will need to install a separate power feed tot he lights, switched by a relay setup (otherwise the switch will burn out). sidelights/Front indicators will use the existing sidelights under the bumper with a dual filament LED bulb (very simple - no hacking required). At the rear, although I could use the reversing lights as indicators I would rather keep them, so am looking at some degree of LED conversion. That'll enable me to keep the all red tail lights, but still have one of them flash amber as required - more to follow on that...

At the same time, I wanted to strip out as much of the crap added by the Previous Owner (PO from now on), starting with the tach!

Results here:

https://youtu.be/MTlGhy_YGaU

I was getting flash-backs to my Supra - it's PO had a similar approach to wiring! After a lot of digging and testing of bulbs I am now pretty sure that it's just knackered bulbs, although the whole loom is very shonky and will be high on the list to replace. The engine bay in particular will need a lot more digging in the future - complicated by me having to learn as I go.

At the same time I confirmed the reason why I couldn't find the front sidelights... looks like when the PO turned this poor car into a drag-slag, he really didn't care about keeping street-legal - hence the sidelights were just left in when it was re-sprayed:



Nice!!

When I get them out and had a look inside, I quickly just decided to replace, not refurb:


The reversing lights weren't much better, and had also suffered from the spray gun, so they'll just be replaced too - the lenses were knackered anyway, plus the looms hard-wired into the assemblies were hard and brittle, so there really wasn't any point repairing.

Then I got to the tail lights, which came out after I loosened the bumper a bit (exposing a nice bit of tail light panel rust - but I knew about that!):




These I will refurb, but I'll need new seals and lenses first - more items on the list, but the housings will clean up OK I'm sure.

As I was good for time (this thing is SO easy to work on!!) I got stuck into a few other things (less photos - sorry!). First I removed the rear spoiler (not a fan) and the hood pins (same)!

Then I set about removing and cleaning out the fuel tank and the trunk (half of Texas in there - foul!). Before I removed it I had a look in with my endoscope:

https://youtu.be/SC8rYo9_7PM

Very empty! Looks like I was lucky to get it onto the drive before it would have conked out. Again it didn't take long to get it out (discovering that the fuel pump is also an aftermarket Holley (I believe)) to reveal the trunk in all its muddy glory:





I then got stuck in with a jet-wash (being careful with direction and tucking the loom well out the way) and discovered all sorts of crud - especially between the rear quarter and the trunk drop-off:



Including the original Dealer's fender(?) emblem!! Don't plan to re-install it, but will probably clean it up and mount it - nice bit of original history! The trunk seems in OK shape - there's rust holes in the panel in front of the trunk and the NS wheel-well base, but so far it doesn't look too bad. Time will tell...

That about wrapped it up for Sat, but I did finish with a feeling that progress was being made - always easy when you're stripping, as opposed to re-installing stuff!! I need to replace more than I thought, but so far there's been no surprises.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-05-2017, 12:55 PM
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Welcome. Be prepared for more surprises. Mine was advertised as rust free..... now in the process of patching frame rails, torque boxes, floors and supports. Other front and rear parts too. Most was hidden pretty good.

John Fisher
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-05-2017, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjfish View Post
Welcome. Be prepared for more surprises. Mine was advertised as rust free..... now in the process of patching frame rails, torque boxes, floors and supports. Other front and rear parts too. Most was hidden pretty good.
Oh Yeah! I'm expecting lots of unknown unknowns...
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-05-2017, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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Found the Carb (now that I've had time to dig into it!!)

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel.../parts/0-1850S

- a 600cfm Holley - not bad at all!! Not sure where the manual choke has been sent to though! Another thing to dig into.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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Ok – time for another update!

Plans are still a bit fluid, as I am waiting for someone I know to give me an idea of how easy it will be to get it to MOT pass level. If that proves too much work, I’ll just be cracking on with a full strip-down as fast as possible to get it in for body and paint.

Therefore this last weekend I started on background jobs, like finishing the prep of the air cleaner – didn’t want it going rusty again. Therefore my improvised spray booth came into play:





First coat is therefore on and during this week I’m rubbing it down, laying a second coat and will hopefully have top coat applied by the weekend.

While I was waiting for the first coat to dry, I started investigating the bodywork (biggest thing that will nix the MOT plans). This quickly grew arms and legs and I’ve basically stripped all but the dash and steering wheel.

While I was stripping it became obvious that the other half of Texas that wasn’t on the underside was in the interior:



What then followed was some good news/bad news:

Good News – the old seam sealer was very flaky, but underneath is really good, clean metal:



Bad News – when I started removing the factory underlay from the floorpans:



I found a nicely rusty rear driver’s pan:



(Note the screwdriver sticking through the floor…)

TBH, though, it’s really localised on the pan, and the seatbelt mount point and seat mount section is still all good, so I’m not too worried – should be a simple enough fix. What’s really good is that all the rest of the sheet metal I exposed seemed ‘OK’. Might be famous last words, but I’ll see!

Just as good, under the, original, headliner:



(eew!)

Was also a pretty solid roof panel – looks like it’s just the drip rails that have started to go, which is a relief!

I then went mental cleaning everything and finishing off labelling and bagging all the bits, so didn’t get a finished shot – it looks a lot cleaner now and should allow a good inspection of the body this coming weekend…
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-16-2017, 12:20 PM
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Welcome! I'd imagine it's a little scary importing a car from another country and waiting to see the actual condition. I guess in your case someone else did the dirty work before.

I don't know what your MOT will require for a older car to pass. Over here it depends on the state and sometimes even we here in the states. If they're going to check exhaust emissions, you're not going to pass with the camshaft that's in there now. It looks like a bit of mismatched parts. The intake looks to be a Edelbrock Performer 289. It's not a bad piece for a mild street engine. It's designed for up to about 5500 RPM. The cam sounds like a Comp Cams Thumpr. It's really just designed to sound nasty at idle. It has a narrow lobe desperation angle. Put it in the dust bin. You really want something a little hotter then the stock cam such as the Edelbrock Performer. There are many cam companies selling this basic grind. I don't know who makes them but everybody over here seems to have the same cam, just a different name. Anyway it'll provide a smooth idle with good torque. It'll be well matched to the intake and torque converter assuming it's stock. Put a new full length dual exhaust system. There's a lot of good quality kits on the market. Inspect the front end components too, especially the lower control arm bushings. Once they go the car becomes a handful to drive.

Tom

I'm not a complete idiot, pieces are missing.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-16-2017, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskinhano View Post
Welcome! I'd imagine it's a little scary importing a car from another country and waiting to see the actual condition. I guess in your case someone else did the dirty work before.

I don't know what your MOT will require for a older car to pass. Over here it depends on the state and sometimes even we here in the states. If they're going to check exhaust emissions, you're not going to pass with the camshaft that's in there now. It looks like a bit of mismatched parts. The intake looks to be a Edelbrock Performer 289. It's not a bad piece for a mild street engine. It's designed for up to about 5500 RPM. The cam sounds like a Comp Cams Thumpr. It's really just designed to sound nasty at idle. It has a narrow lobe desperation angle. Put it in the dust bin. You really want something a little hotter then the stock cam such as the Edelbrock Performer. There are many cam companies selling this basic grind. I don't know who makes them but everybody over here seems to have the same cam, just a different name. Anyway it'll provide a smooth idle with good torque. It'll be well matched to the intake and torque converter assuming it's stock. Put a new full length dual exhaust system. There's a lot of good quality kits on the market. Inspect the front end components too, especially the lower control arm bushings. Once they go the car becomes a handful to drive.
Ref the above the only issues I'll have on the MOT is the lights (UK compliant - easily sorted), the structural rust (TBC whether it's worth sorting just yet) and exhaust noise (easily sorted as you said).

Ref the wider comments, the whole car is a bit mis-matched TBH, but nothing drastic; there's just a lot that just makes you go: 'Really??'.

The Cam was never staying (agree bin!) and the engine was always going to be mild performance but smooth street driving initially. Thanks for the info on the intake - there is what looks like a 2 after the performer under the grime, so that looks about right - it'll do for now. If I go for more performance later a 351 crate will be going in anyway TBH.

Once body and paint is done the first priority will be suspension and brakes though - from a Pro-tour/resto-mod angle. The engine will be one of the last areas to tackle properly.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-16-2017, 04:30 PM
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When you get to the suspension, give Shaun from Street or Track a jingle. He speaks the King's English. But unfortunately, he's become Americanized. Heck of a ice guy. I can only imagine how expensive it must be to build an American car there. I have Shaun's parts on my 66. Great stuff, I think he has a distributor on your side of the pond.

Street or Track LLC

Tom

I'm not a complete idiot, pieces are missing.
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 02:47 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice Huskinhano - will bear it in mind once I've got the immediate rebuild sorted

Well it's all been quiet for a while, and I've not been on much, so it's probably time for an update! I thought a video would probably be easier to show where I am just now, so got the phone out today while I was digging into a few other things and waiting for some parts to dry:



(won't be live for another 3-4 hours though). Also excuse the Scottish accent, occasional swearing and camerawork!!

One of the reasons it's been quiet is that my wallet has been absolutely battered recently - the Honda I daily drive needed over £700 of work, the Jag threw up a load of electrical faults while being used as a backup daily driver (booked into MD next week), it also got reversed into in a car park (now sorted - non-fault claim!!) and also had to be taxed this month (don't ask!). Before all this happened I'd paid my brother back a fairly big sum I'd borrowed from him, plus made my first big parts order from NPD (more on that later). Add all that lot together and I suspect I'll not get the Stang in for body and paint until the end of the year at the earliest! Oh Well...

The other reason it's been quiet is that I've mostly been mainly painting stuff in the garage, which turned into a bit of an epic. So, in order...

The Air Cleaner is now finally done!! It's not perfect, but then again it was really badly pitted and rusty - I probably should have used filler in hindsight, but never mind. What with enamel paint curing issues, which meant I had to strip the freshly painted lid with a Stanley blade, lacquer issues and then a badly timed fly (why did the little sod have to land there!) it's taken a lot longer than it should. Still I've learned a shed-load about painting and, most importantly, prep-work, so all good...

Before:

After:


I've also stripped and painted the tail light housings, in advance of new lenses, bezels and seals arriving from the states:

Before:

After:


At the same time I sent the Fuel Tank, which had a lot of rust starting at the joint between the two halves, to be blasted and then Powder-Coated. The result was well worth it and it still looks fairly original (it looks far more metallic in reality), while being well-protected:


I've also just blasted and painted the filler neck, as well as a few other random bits:


Other than that the first big order went in with NPD (super customer service - no problems at all!). I got a bulk discount and free shipping to a US address where it'll be loaded on a container bound for the UK, courtesy of Ron Fenton (STS imports - again excellent customer service). It's composed mainly of replacement lights, mirrors and other bits and bobs that I've been cataloguing as I've dismantled. It'll probably only arrive in May, but I'm not in a rush and the saving in shipping and overall customs hassle is worth it. I suspect that this'll be the way the majority of my 'stuff' will come across now and I would thoroughly recommend NPD to anyone!

Other than that, I've continued to slowly dismantle the interior as well as investigate the engine bay (it's messy in there!). I've also removed the stock foot E-Brake, with a plan to replace it with a Lokar handbrake. The reasons are primarily because the stock unit is 'sub-optimal', mine is knackered and would need replaced anyway and I'm planning on a T56 manual gearbox in the future, which won't work with a stock E-Brake. Therefore there's no reason not to, so that's on the next order list, which is already growing quickly!!

There probably won't be too many updates over the next few months. As said my wallet needs to calm down, so it'll be more painting and stripping work until summer. Still, at least I'm still making progress!!

Last edited by Mike-Mac; 04-12-2017 at 03:20 PM.
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 04:01 PM
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Looking very nice thus far. Excited to follow the build.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-13-2017, 11:01 AM
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Thank you for the order and the endorsement Mike-Mac!

Rick
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-13-2017, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
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You're welcome Rick - JT was certainly very on the ball!

Moving on, it looks like I spoke too soon about less updates - I've managed to press on quite a bit today while I'm on holiday and Tracy is still working and get the majority of the behind-dash gubbins out. Ignoring the perfectly formed Wasp nest that was inside the vent unit (kept it - really well-made!) my main focus was getting my first good look at the extent of the rust on the cowl...

... except there wasn't any (much):





I think the video and photo says it all - I was not expecting that! What I did find just after that was that the drains at the base of the bulkhead were blocked, which isn't a surprise seeing how much dirt there was in the rest of the car. I found this out when I removed the floor vents, exposing the metal panels they were mounted to as being shot, but really localised and a fairly easy fix:



I think I now know what's happened to this car. It's obviously spent a long time outside in a dusty environment (Texas - you think!! ), which has gradually collected and blocked up the various drain holes. At the same time the Texas sun has perished all the rubber seals in the trunk and the windows.

This has then let water leak or build up in the fenders, floor vents, then floor pans, rear quarter-wells and trunk - all areas that are where the rust is bad or has already been fixed (poorly) - such as the front floor-pans, the rear quarters and I'm also betting the fenders are new too, whereas the rest of the car is really solid.

Overall though, I'm chuffed about this - if I don't have to replace the cowl assembly, just the panels that the floor vents mount to, then that's lots of effort saved. It also means that all the rusty areas I've found are firmly in the 'minor bodywork' category so far. Very happy with that! I was expecting to find more issues as I stripped, not fewer!!

Got to say also that so far this car has been a delight to work on. Everything just unbolts and accessibility is great - this would have taken me days on any modern car and caused a LOT more swearing.

I now have a garage full of dash and behind-dash 'stuff', which will no doubt keep me occupied for quite a while now - ideal!!
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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I think an update (or several ) is long overdue, although in fairness progress has slowed a bit as I’m waiting for the first NPD order to hit UK shores and I’m also being very careful with money after last month’s collection of unexpected big bills!

Therefore there’s not as much big stuff here – more a collection of little things that have been ticking along in the background.

First off, the decision has been made to install aftermarket A/C (Classic Auto Air) rather than renovate and re-install the stock heater box, because if I did, I’d only have to strip it all out again to install the CAA system later so, based on my loathing of doing something twice, I read through the CAA instructions and set about removing the old fan (re-used by CAA) and the A/C control Panel (Likewise):




The motor was blasted and is in the middle of being painted, while the control panel was dismantled and cleaned, before being stored:


(Nasty!)

Another job I tackled in the background was separating, cleaning and painting the rear marker light housings (PO’s re-spray had left them looking a bit Orange. At the same time I polished the rear marker lenses while I was de-yellowing my Accord’s Headlights:

(It’s the little things that count )

Then a few weekends later I took advantage of a Sunny weekend to remove something that had been bugging me from the start:

Now you see it…


Now you don’t!


Exposing a nice death-wheel install courtesy of the PO…


Not really necessary, but I had some time and a drill on my hands…
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