1970 base 302 Fastback Resto (mod) - Vintage Mustang Forums

 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Mike-Mac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Devon, UK
Posts: 18
1970 base 302 Fastback Resto (mod)

Well, I suppose having now got a Mustang, (see here: WTB - 69 F/B - Up to $20K Budget ) I thought I'd better start a build thread (albeit not much'll happen initially, as my bank balance needs to cool off a bit!!.

So, on to the car...

A 1970, base model, 302ci auto fastback Mustang, it was imported to the UK about a month back by the guy I bought it from, who got it from an estate sale in Marshall, Texas. The last US owner (Edward Allen) had it since 1995 (Previous Owner to him was someone called Danny Manning). Considering the state of the underside it'd spent some time in a field before then. First thing I did after I paid for it was source a Marti Report - here:



Despite Calypso Coral actually being the colour it is painted now, it's had a (really poor) respray at some point and a fair bit of bodywork (similarly poor). What was interesting is that it was an original AC and PAS car - which are both long gone. Currently it's been converted to a bit of a street/strip car, with Center-Line Alloys, a B&M Shifter, Pro-Light Tach, 429 Shelby hood scoop (replica), Traction bars and what looks like a Gearbox oil cooler (may keep that). The engine also sounds rather fruity, so there's a pretty lumpy cam in there, plus the exhaust stops about mid-way (LOUD!!).

It's arrival (with somewhat dubious footage, but my Wife was also making sure I didn't hit anyone!) is here:

https://youtu.be/3ykSZS1QCuY

Photos here:












I also had to spend the first few hours after arrival clearing the Wasp nest that had been constructed underneath:




So far I know it's got a very rusty cowl (unsurprising), pin-holed tail light panel, lap-welded lower quarter-panel replacements, new floor-pans (but also poorly installed) and possibly new fenders and doors. The frame rails and Torque boxes and other body panels seem ok, but overall I'm not too concerned, as my plan was always to fully gut it, then build it back up with an eye to doing a Resto-mod. Originality is therefore not a critical concern and this car has already lost much of its anyway, so it's not like i'm doing it to a Mach 1 or something that will lose a lot of value.

Saying that I want to keep the car looking as original as possible (inside and Out) or modified in a way that looks original in appearance.

The Plan! (doesn't really deserve capital letters):

Initially, as said, progress will be slow, but the outline will be to go as follows:

- Initial Inspection/Immediate work - Over the next few months I'll just be getting to know the car and identifying what work is needed. May get it registered and on the road, but suspect it'll be too much work just now - will see!
- Strip-down - catalogue and inspect - look to identify what bodywork needs doing - expect a LOT of questions from me of the 'what is', 'where should', 'How can' and 'Help!' variety!
- Bodywork - will have to out-source this - as you can see, I have a drive, and that's it! At the same time I will get a lot of reinforcement done to shock towers and structure, plus preparing for future mods wherever possible.
- Renovate - while the car's away for bodywork, I plan to restore/renovate all the bits I've stripped off, ready for re-assembly, plus source the bits i'm missing.
- Paint - out-sourced too - luckily there's a very good painter just a few miles away from me. Intended colour is new Mustang Magnetic (love it)
- Re-assemble - back to a largely stock form just now, using the bits i've already renovated.
- Resto-Mod - once the car is on the road and running, I will start to gradually work through it and upgrade over time - focusing on suspension, powertrain and brakes.

The main thing is to get it back on the road and driving as soon as possible once Body and Paint are done. I don't want this thing up on bricks on my drive for years - obviously time will tell, and I will be learning as I go, so any advice/guidance is welcome (especially if you see me doing something daft!!).

Last edited by Mike-Mac; 02-19-2017 at 02:51 PM.
Mike-Mac is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017, 04:07 PM
Member
 
Dalpilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 98
Excellent choice. I have enjoyed restomoding my Boss.

1970 302 Boss, (Clone)
2016 Coyote with a T56 and a few other mods. "Keeping it stock."
Dalpilot is offline  
post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-05-2017, 12:35 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Mike-Mac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Devon, UK
Posts: 18
Update #1

Other than a lot of time getting my blast cabinet sorted and ready (and starting to strip and renovate the air cleaner)...









... I've now managed to capitalise on the breaks in the weather on Saturday to get started on the initial strip/assessment.

First, I did a bit of digging in the engine bay and confirmed my suspicion that the engine isn't very standard! There's a 4BBl Holley Carb on there (original was a 2BBl), an Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold (not sure which one) and what look suspiciously like short tube exhaust headers!:







(can anyone provide a bit more on what specifically this Carb and Intake might be?

On less bright news, I found that the screenwash bottle had been converted into a coolant overflow tank and what was in there was pretty foul:



While I want to install an overflow tank (good idea mechanically) I also want my screen-wash back and it looks like i'll need to re-plumb the whole system as it seems to have 'gone'! I'll need to investigate further, but that's a job for another day...

Then, I started looking into the wiring, in particular the lighting, as I want to assess whether I can do the UK conversion easily. Current plan is convert the headlights to UK halogens, which I will need to install a separate power feed tot he lights, switched by a relay setup (otherwise the switch will burn out). sidelights/Front indicators will use the existing sidelights under the bumper with a dual filament LED bulb (very simple - no hacking required). At the rear, although I could use the reversing lights as indicators I would rather keep them, so am looking at some degree of LED conversion. That'll enable me to keep the all red tail lights, but still have one of them flash amber as required - more to follow on that...

At the same time, I wanted to strip out as much of the crap added by the Previous Owner (PO from now on), starting with the tach!

Results here:

https://youtu.be/MTlGhy_YGaU

I was getting flash-backs to my Supra - it's PO had a similar approach to wiring! After a lot of digging and testing of bulbs I am now pretty sure that it's just knackered bulbs, although the whole loom is very shonky and will be high on the list to replace. The engine bay in particular will need a lot more digging in the future - complicated by me having to learn as I go.

At the same time I confirmed the reason why I couldn't find the front sidelights... looks like when the PO turned this poor car into a drag-slag, he really didn't care about keeping street-legal - hence the sidelights were just left in when it was re-sprayed:



Nice!!

When I get them out and had a look inside, I quickly just decided to replace, not refurb:


The reversing lights weren't much better, and had also suffered from the spray gun, so they'll just be replaced too - the lenses were knackered anyway, plus the looms hard-wired into the assemblies were hard and brittle, so there really wasn't any point repairing.

Then I got to the tail lights, which came out after I loosened the bumper a bit (exposing a nice bit of tail light panel rust - but I knew about that!):




These I will refurb, but I'll need new seals and lenses first - more items on the list, but the housings will clean up OK I'm sure.

As I was good for time (this thing is SO easy to work on!!) I got stuck into a few other things (less photos - sorry!). First I removed the rear spoiler (not a fan) and the hood pins (same)!

Then I set about removing and cleaning out the fuel tank and the trunk (half of Texas in there - foul!). Before I removed it I had a look in with my endoscope:

https://youtu.be/SC8rYo9_7PM

Very empty! Looks like I was lucky to get it onto the drive before it would have conked out. Again it didn't take long to get it out (discovering that the fuel pump is also an aftermarket Holley (I believe)) to reveal the trunk in all its muddy glory:





I then got stuck in with a jet-wash (being careful with direction and tucking the loom well out the way) and discovered all sorts of crud - especially between the rear quarter and the trunk drop-off:



Including the original Dealer's fender(?) emblem!! Don't plan to re-install it, but will probably clean it up and mount it - nice bit of original history! The trunk seems in OK shape - there's rust holes in the panel in front of the trunk and the NS wheel-well base, but so far it doesn't look too bad. Time will tell...

That about wrapped it up for Sat, but I did finish with a feeling that progress was being made - always easy when you're stripping, as opposed to re-installing stuff!! I need to replace more than I thought, but so far there's been no surprises.
Mike-Mac is offline  
 
post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-05-2017, 12:55 PM
Senior Member
 
jjfish's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Texas, Houston
Posts: 672
Welcome. Be prepared for more surprises. Mine was advertised as rust free..... now in the process of patching frame rails, torque boxes, floors and supports. Other front and rear parts too. Most was hidden pretty good.

John Fisher
jjfish is offline  
post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-05-2017, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Mike-Mac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Devon, UK
Posts: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjfish View Post
Welcome. Be prepared for more surprises. Mine was advertised as rust free..... now in the process of patching frame rails, torque boxes, floors and supports. Other front and rear parts too. Most was hidden pretty good.
Oh Yeah! I'm expecting lots of unknown unknowns...
Mike-Mac is offline  
post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-05-2017, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Mike-Mac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Devon, UK
Posts: 18
Found the Carb (now that I've had time to dig into it!!)

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel.../parts/0-1850S

- a 600cfm Holley - not bad at all!! Not sure where the manual choke has been sent to though! Another thing to dig into.
Mike-Mac is offline  
post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Mike-Mac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Devon, UK
Posts: 18
Ok – time for another update!

Plans are still a bit fluid, as I am waiting for someone I know to give me an idea of how easy it will be to get it to MOT pass level. If that proves too much work, I’ll just be cracking on with a full strip-down as fast as possible to get it in for body and paint.

Therefore this last weekend I started on background jobs, like finishing the prep of the air cleaner – didn’t want it going rusty again. Therefore my improvised spray booth came into play:





First coat is therefore on and during this week I’m rubbing it down, laying a second coat and will hopefully have top coat applied by the weekend.

While I was waiting for the first coat to dry, I started investigating the bodywork (biggest thing that will nix the MOT plans). This quickly grew arms and legs and I’ve basically stripped all but the dash and steering wheel.

While I was stripping it became obvious that the other half of Texas that wasn’t on the underside was in the interior:



What then followed was some good news/bad news:

Good News – the old seam sealer was very flaky, but underneath is really good, clean metal:



Bad News – when I started removing the factory underlay from the floorpans:



I found a nicely rusty rear driver’s pan:



(Note the screwdriver sticking through the floor…)

TBH, though, it’s really localised on the pan, and the seatbelt mount point and seat mount section is still all good, so I’m not too worried – should be a simple enough fix. What’s really good is that all the rest of the sheet metal I exposed seemed ‘OK’. Might be famous last words, but I’ll see!

Just as good, under the, original, headliner:



(eew!)

Was also a pretty solid roof panel – looks like it’s just the drip rails that have started to go, which is a relief!

I then went mental cleaning everything and finishing off labelling and bagging all the bits, so didn’t get a finished shot – it looks a lot cleaner now and should allow a good inspection of the body this coming weekend…
Mike-Mac is offline  
post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-16-2017, 12:20 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Tunkhannock PA
Posts: 15,730
Welcome! I'd imagine it's a little scary importing a car from another country and waiting to see the actual condition. I guess in your case someone else did the dirty work before.

I don't know what your MOT will require for a older car to pass. Over here it depends on the state and sometimes even we here in the states. If they're going to check exhaust emissions, you're not going to pass with the camshaft that's in there now. It looks like a bit of mismatched parts. The intake looks to be a Edelbrock Performer 289. It's not a bad piece for a mild street engine. It's designed for up to about 5500 RPM. The cam sounds like a Comp Cams Thumpr. It's really just designed to sound nasty at idle. It has a narrow lobe desperation angle. Put it in the dust bin. You really want something a little hotter then the stock cam such as the Edelbrock Performer. There are many cam companies selling this basic grind. I don't know who makes them but everybody over here seems to have the same cam, just a different name. Anyway it'll provide a smooth idle with good torque. It'll be well matched to the intake and torque converter assuming it's stock. Put a new full length dual exhaust system. There's a lot of good quality kits on the market. Inspect the front end components too, especially the lower control arm bushings. Once they go the car becomes a handful to drive.

Tom

I'm not a complete idiot, pieces are missing.
Huskinhano is online now  
post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-16-2017, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Mike-Mac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Devon, UK
Posts: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskinhano View Post
Welcome! I'd imagine it's a little scary importing a car from another country and waiting to see the actual condition. I guess in your case someone else did the dirty work before.

I don't know what your MOT will require for a older car to pass. Over here it depends on the state and sometimes even we here in the states. If they're going to check exhaust emissions, you're not going to pass with the camshaft that's in there now. It looks like a bit of mismatched parts. The intake looks to be a Edelbrock Performer 289. It's not a bad piece for a mild street engine. It's designed for up to about 5500 RPM. The cam sounds like a Comp Cams Thumpr. It's really just designed to sound nasty at idle. It has a narrow lobe desperation angle. Put it in the dust bin. You really want something a little hotter then the stock cam such as the Edelbrock Performer. There are many cam companies selling this basic grind. I don't know who makes them but everybody over here seems to have the same cam, just a different name. Anyway it'll provide a smooth idle with good torque. It'll be well matched to the intake and torque converter assuming it's stock. Put a new full length dual exhaust system. There's a lot of good quality kits on the market. Inspect the front end components too, especially the lower control arm bushings. Once they go the car becomes a handful to drive.
Ref the above the only issues I'll have on the MOT is the lights (UK compliant - easily sorted), the structural rust (TBC whether it's worth sorting just yet) and exhaust noise (easily sorted as you said).

Ref the wider comments, the whole car is a bit mis-matched TBH, but nothing drastic; there's just a lot that just makes you go: 'Really??'.

The Cam was never staying (agree bin!) and the engine was always going to be mild performance but smooth street driving initially. Thanks for the info on the intake - there is what looks like a 2 after the performer under the grime, so that looks about right - it'll do for now. If I go for more performance later a 351 crate will be going in anyway TBH.

Once body and paint is done the first priority will be suspension and brakes though - from a Pro-tour/resto-mod angle. The engine will be one of the last areas to tackle properly.
Mike-Mac is offline  
post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-16-2017, 04:30 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Tunkhannock PA
Posts: 15,730
When you get to the suspension, give Shaun from Street or Track a jingle. He speaks the King's English. But unfortunately, he's become Americanized. Heck of a ice guy. I can only imagine how expensive it must be to build an American car there. I have Shaun's parts on my 66. Great stuff, I think he has a distributor on your side of the pond.

Street or Track LLC

Tom

I'm not a complete idiot, pieces are missing.
Huskinhano is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Vintage Mustang Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome