1966 Mustang Convertible Restomod Coyote Build - Page 3 - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #31 of 72 (permalink) Old 04-27-2017, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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Bare Trunk

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Originally Posted by junior View Post
have any more pics of inside trunk? want to see how much you painted and if you have more interior pics
Sure, attached is a photograph of the trunk prior to dropping in the gas tank. What you see is epoxy red primer, black chassis Eastwood primer, Lizardskin SI, followed by Eastwood Black Chassis. I got a little creative with the Lizardskin covering the interior of the rear quarter panels, wheelhouses, and upper part of the tank. I'm not exactly set on what I would like to do with the trunk, but I will most likely eventually install some type of deck and upholstery covering all of this.

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post #32 of 72 (permalink) Old 04-29-2017, 12:46 AM Thread Starter
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Blacking Out

Jumping around as purchases arrive. I will powder coat chrome parts that can take the heat. For parts that need to be painted, I experimented with a number of techniques. I settled on blasting with aluminum oxide and coating with SEM trim paint. I am pleased with the Satin finish and durability. Iím curious to see how pot metal handles powder coating?













Rear convertible quarter panel ashtray covers.





LED reverse lights.







Sequential LED tail lamps. Iíll powder coat a set of tail lamp bezels for comparison.







Installed amber LED parking lights from Mustang Project. So the signal lighting will still be amber, but with a clear lens.



Interior pony door light fixture.

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post #33 of 72 (permalink) Old 04-29-2017, 01:17 AM Thread Starter
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Instrument Cluster and Glove Box

I really dig a lot of the Mustang To Fear products. I ordered their instrument cluster and glove box bezels. They are made of ABS plastic and are available in aluminum or carbon fiber prints. Iíd figure I could always paint if I didnít like the faux carbon fiber. In keeping with my black and white theme, I really liked the look of the Auto Meter Phantom II gauges.



Donor glove box.



Blasted



Painted

Here is a sneak peak of the cluster.







Matching door panels. I like how these panels are pre fitted with speakers, as there isnít much room in a convertible. Also, no window rollers so power windows are a must. Paint is an option, but so far Iím digging the look.
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post #34 of 72 (permalink) Old 04-29-2017, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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Steering Components



I’m learning as I go. My homemade diagram.





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post #35 of 72 (permalink) Old 04-30-2017, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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Roll Bar

Picked up the 1965-1970 Convertible Street Bar from Mustangs Plus. The rear seat is usable and it will give me a third mounting point for the front seat belts. I liked how the Shelby Roll Bar looks, but it offers zero functionality and is purely aesthetic.



Drilled and welded in rivnuts to the lower inner frame.





Iím sure this will complicate the installation of door sill scuff plates and the rear quarter panels, but Iíll feel safer. The plan is to powder coat and possibly make a padding kit.



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post #36 of 72 (permalink) Old 04-30-2017, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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Interior Pony Door Lights

My donor car has factory pony interior. I like the added convenience and functionality of the interior pony door light, so I figured I would carry them over.







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post #37 of 72 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 11:27 AM
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Looks great man. On your steering, I think you might need to come a little farther forward from your column before you go down to the rack. I had to add about 3 inches to clear the headers.

1970 302 Boss, (Clone)
2016 Coyote with a T56 and a few other mods. "Keeping it stock."
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post #38 of 72 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 11:33 PM Thread Starter
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Steering

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Looks great man. On your steering, I think you might need to come a little farther forward from your column before you go down to the rack. I had to add about 3 inches to clear the headers.
Thanks. Yeah, I'm sure everything will need an adjustment. Learning as I go.
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post #39 of 72 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 11:38 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch and Transmission

I removed the stock flywheel and installed engine block plate, which simply hangs on the block dowels. The Flywheel went on next. I kept the stock pilot bearing included with the Coyote block.





Clutch disc held by the clutch alignment tool.



Both lines are AN-4 male. Bottom is supply, top is bleed line.



Tilton 6000 hydraulic release bearing installed. We had to shorten the anti rotation stud, otherwise it would have interfered with the clutch. The trickiest part of the install was setting the distance between the face of the release bearing to the face of the transmission. The bearing to clutch distance is .125Ē.





Engine Mounts



Heidts transmission cross member uses a stock style transmission mount (C4, toploader, etc). I went with a Prothane unit.
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post #40 of 72 (permalink) Old 05-02-2017, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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Serpentine Kit

I ordered a March Performance Ford 5.0 Late Model Coyote kit 30555-08. Itís black powder coated with air conditioning, power steering, and includes the Ford Boss 302 alternator pack.



Crate engine as equipped from the factory. Early Coyote engines come with a 4-bolt water pump, while 2014 and later have a 3-bolt water pump.





Everything included with the alternator kit. Belt is included as well.



This webbing behind the power steering pump must be an addition for the Gen 2 Coyote? I will need to grind down a little.







March Performance remote power steering reservoir and AC vertical manifold with #8 and #10 fittings.

Installation instructions.

http://marchperformance.com/media/wy...structions.pdf
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post #41 of 72 (permalink) Old 05-04-2017, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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New Parts, Air Conditioning, Hinges, and Fuel Lines

I purchased the Vintage Air Gen IV Air Conditioning. Vintage Air uses the stock firewall heater inlet and outlet holes. The stock fan heater is replaced with a plate that guides the AC lines. The Custom Auto Air System run both AC and heater lines through the stock heater fan cutout, which may have been the more simpler option since the Coyote engine is so wide. I hear good things about both vendors. For the Coyote, the compressor is mounted on the passenger side, so will need to cut and crimp custom AC lines.









Capped the right cowl vent from under the dash.





Drilled the firewall mounting points.



Ring Brothers anodized black hinges. Love these.



The plan was to go with the stock hinges for the trunk lid, but after smashing my fingers a couple of times on the torsion bars I saw the value in upgrading.





Master body bolt kit. This will be a lifesaver.



Designing my fuel system. Going with Aeromotive EFI fuel pressure regulator, filter, and -6 AN fittings. Black Aeroquip Starlite hose for the engine compartment and stainless steel braided hose for the undercarriage. The Ford Control Pack requires a return line even though the fuel rail on the Coyote is a returnless style fuel rail.
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post #42 of 72 (permalink) Old 05-05-2017, 02:19 AM Thread Starter
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Radiator Core Support

Itís time to cut and widen the radiator opening on the core support. I reviewed the Vintage Air instructions, but also temporarily fitted the radiator for measurements.












Our little humble garage. The Coyote nudges ever so closely to its vintage companion. I have to find a way to better organize all these boxes!

The Coyote engine is a beast, so based upon my fatherís recommendation we modified the radiator core support further by making the top center cross member removable. Wilwood made a cool prototype bracket out of aluminum for their red Coyote coupe, but they donít sell it. I begged them for one, but no luck.



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post #43 of 72 (permalink) Old 05-06-2017, 01:55 AM
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Can you provide the details on the hydraulic cartridges for the rear deck lid?

Thanks, Clint

1995 GT Convertible - Laser Red - 331 stroker, Kenne Bell 2.2 - 415 RWHP 396 RWTQ
2002 Corvette Z06 - 410 RWHP 410 RWTQ
1968 Mustang Fastback .... Rustbucket slowly being reborn
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post #44 of 72 (permalink) Old 05-06-2017, 02:13 AM Thread Starter
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Engine and T56 Fitment

Itís finally time to install the engine for fitment. My Dad fabricated some engine hoist brackets. Iím told Ford stopped shipping the Coyote crate engines with lift brackets in 2014. I couldnít find a pair for purchase anywhere on the web. We removed the remote oil cooler, oil filter, alternator from the engine, and gave it a go.



Ultimately we discovered installation is much easier when the intake manifold is removed.



Engine sits low compared to other installs that I have seen.



Shifter Lines up. Looks like only a minimal amount of cutting will be required.





There is about half an inch of clearance between the oil pan and center cross member.



The manifold CMCV actuators clear the firewall by about a quarter of an inch depending on the transmission angle. MMR makes a CMCV lock out kit that removes the plastic actuators located on the back of the manifold. Apparently it locks the intake manifold runner control valves/flaps in the full open position. However, Iíd like to keep that functionality for improved low-end torque and horsepower.

CMCV LOCK OUT 2015 - 2017 Mustang GT & Shelby GT350 [477191] - $39.99 : Modular Motorsports, Home of the Worlds Fastest Modular Engines





Tunnel clearance is looking good!



All was looking good until we discovered that the engine was sitting so low that the alternator mounted in its stock position would interfere with the upper A arm! Now I know why there are Coyote serpentine kits with reverse mounted alternators mounted on the passenger side. Crises avoided as I think I have come up with a viable solution with my current serpentine.



Apparently the transmission cross member and transmission mount bolts are not aligning? The shifter is aligned to the floor pan cutout so either the transmission cross member is flawed or the frame rails are not centered? Iíll be taking some measurements.
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post #45 of 72 (permalink) Old 05-06-2017, 10:30 AM
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That does look lower than other setups I've seen. Do you have a way to measure what angle the motor is at with he transmission installed? I'd be curious to see if you can get 4* or less.

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