Vintage Mustang Forums banner

My build

51K views 193 replies 31 participants last post by  cyclone03 
#1 ·
Hey all! I have been chomping at the bit to post here. Had to get some things sorted on setting up an account. I used that time to try and read everything I could find on what I'm about to undertake. This will be a lengthy post and I hope I don't step on any toes. I recently bought a 1967 coupe. Body is in very good condition. I looked at tons of cars that had new engines etc but the body was rough. The lines on this one are all straight, little to no bondo and just some surface rust seems to be the worst of it. The previous owner had it painted, and they did a nice job, except they should have gone the extra step and taken care of those surface rust spots. No worries, I'll do that when I change colors. Now to the meat of my post. I intend to use this car as a daily driver. It currently has a 289 with C-4 auto and has power brakes. The 289 had a rotten pipe on the exhaust, I fixed that but its got a lot of other little nuisances. driver motor mount is busted, radiator leaks, although the car runs cool, tranny is leaking pretty good, etc. I bought the car right, and I've still got about $6-7k in my budget for it. I want to modernize it.

I'll go over the motor first. I found a donor 5.0 HO with AOD and fuel injection out of a 93 mustang. Guy said it had 80k miles and ran good. Me being the trusting soul that I am, decided to tear the motor down to be sure. The motor is clean. Very little sludge in the valley and while I didn't mike the cylinders, I can't hang a fingernail on the ridge at the top of the cylinder above where the first ring is and cylinders are not stamped so it's still standard bore. I didn't want to spend money on the heads, but I decided to have them redone. I have a local machine shop porting them and boring the intake to 1.94 and exhaust to 1.60 decking it and checking out the springs. They will also put plugs in the EGR ports for me. I am planning to leave the stock cam in it. Here's what I have left to do: I'm going to wash the block down with solvent and use a wire brush to clean off the carbon. Leaving the freeze plugs, they look fine. Drill the timing chain cover for the dipstick. My late model does not have that nice ledge that is shown in some of the other 5.0 EFI swaps, so not sure what to do unless there is a cover that will work with the serpentine belts that can be drilled. Smog pump had been deleted previously. I will pick up a block off plate from ebay or somewhere for the EGR. I got the timing chain, gasket kit, melling high volume pump, Pick up tube, Water pump, motor mounts from Advance Auto. I need to pick up an A9P computer, but advance sells them for about $90 compared to $250 on ebay. I have all the wiring harnesses for it. I have to get headers an exhaust system, Radiator, High Pressure fuel pump, fuel lines and the sending unit with return built in and an oilpan to complete my engine part of this build. For Exhaust, I would love to go with the JBA ceramic coated midpipe headers for a 5.0 swap, but those are close to $600. Summit has some ceramic coated shorties for $199. Then I was going to pick up 2 hedman starters with the O2 bungs in them already then follow that with a Flowmaster American thunder exhaust system but am open to suggestions (preferably with links). Not sure what size radiator I can put in there. May have to go with an electric fan. Any advice on where to get the fuel lines and in line pump are appreciated as well. On to the tranny.

I have not torn into the tranny yet. I see paint pen markings on the bell housing, so I want to assume its been rebuilt somewhat recently. I'm thinking I am going to drop the pan on the transmission and just look to see if there are any obvious signs of wear. metal sludge in the pan, etc. I ordered the AOD conversion crossbrace and the Lokar TV cable and a new transmission mount from PACT today. I plan to use the yoke from my C-4, along with the dipstick. Planning on using the stock shifter for now. I know I will need to shorten the drive shaft, will have that done locally. On to the suspension.

Stuart over at Steve's mustangs was really patient with all my questions and gave me some really solid advice on this (that reinforced what I had read here). I ordered 5 spring rears for standard ride height. He said to start there, cause I can go down with blocks, but really cant go back up. On the front I ordered new springs and upgraded upper shafts lower control arms bushings and a 1" sway bar. His suggestion was to take off 1" of spring and see how it rides. I'm putting the KYB gas-adjust shocks all the way around. The car currently tracks straight as an arrow, but I'm adding quite a bit of power and also want to add Power steering. I have a guy locally has a Power steering box out of a 67 with the center link that wants $75. It probably will need to be rebuilt. My new motor has a Power steering pump, so I would need the rag joint, new lines and to either cut down the current column or get a new collapsible one. I want the collapsible one anyway. So my debate, is should I just go ahead and get the borgeson kit for almost $1k. Also need to change out the shock tower braces since the stock ones will hit the EFI. Car has power disc brakes already and it stops pretty good now, but will evaluate those when I have it apart. I also ordered a pair of Tin Man subframe connectors.

Other things: I bought an american auto chasis wiring harness and will rewire the car. Found that on Ebay. I intend to put in A/C. I was on perpetual hold with Vintage air the other day. They are local to me so I may have to just go over there. Hoping I can use the current compressor, but I know it isnt R-134 and it get's REALLY hot here in Texas. I'm getting enough B-Quiet Mat to do the roof floor doors trunk and firewall of the car as well. I'm also ordering 3 point safety harnesses. I'd love to knock out the body while I'm at it, but it's passable right now. I know I will need interior and probably should put an alarm on it too. If you guys can think of anything I'm missing or if you have some suggestions please let me know. I'd post pics, just not sure how.
 
See less See more
#28 ·
If you're still looking for assistance on the smog pump, there's popular solution to use a kit that makes use of an idler pulley in place of the pump. Here's a search on Corral.net...

Smog pump search
 
#30 · (Edited)
Oh man, I don't know where to start. First off, you had the best alternator ever known to mankind. The 3G is the one to use. Use the Fox bracket and you can grind a small V in the back of the bracket and it will fit.
Leave the air pump in the trash can. You don't need it. I cut the ears off my bracket when I was fitting the alt. and it looks perfect.
Did you drill out the timing cover for the dip stick tube before you installed it? If not, pull the cover and do it or you will wind up with metal shavings in the motor.
Here's a photo of my Fox serpentine with the 3G. Don't have any photos of a close up where I modified the bracket. Common swap with the fox guys.

I have. MII suspension, so I didn't need to move my dip stick.
Do a search non corral.net and you can find a chart on how to route different length belts with different accessories. No need to buy the air pump eliminator pulley kit, just get a differently length belt.
As far as painting the intake, here's how I replicated a factory finish that looks great on my sons Explorer intake conversion.
All spray can, using a light gray, laid down a couple coats providing a base. Misted on a silver metallic, not much, just fog it on. Let dry then lay down 3 or 4 heavy coats of clear. It turned out looking great.
 
#32 ·
I hear ya. I completely assemble this car every night in my mind. It's kind of frustrating that the real world application takes so much longer. But, I do enjoy the process as well. It would be nice if I had a parts store and a vintage salvage yard at the end of the block.

Hey Scott, I agree the 3g is nice, but I had the 95 amp 3G which is a smaller body and does not bolt into the bracket. So I got the 6G 160 amp which is the size of the one in your pic. As I understand, the 6G has some improvements over the 3G. I then put a helicoil in the top ear and notched the back and bolted it in. Putting a straight edge across the crank pulley shows that I'm about 1/8-1/4" off on alignment. I need to confirm that the pulley is seated all the way but the engine keeps wanting to turn. I drilled the timing cover off the motor and then put tape over the hole when I drilled the bracket for the top of the dipstick. That was tough and I had to bend the dipstick tube a bit, and it really didn't want to bend. There was not much space behind that alternator for the dipstick, and the HOT terminal is perfectly in line with the metal dipstick...
 
#33 ·
I drained the transmission and changed the filter. There was some sludge in the bottom and the color was dark. Looked like there might have been some metallic grit in the pan, but the seals looked good and everything seemed minimal. Washed out the gunk, drained the T/C and then put in 1 qt of fresh fluid and reinstalled and gave the trans a rattle can paintjob. T/C looks clean ( I did not paint it)


 
#34 ·
Sounds like a great project man. I just started on a 68 coupe myself. The body is in great condition just surface rust here and there. Only real hurdle with the car is it was a six cylinder so i am going to convert it to a 289. The front end has already been done but the rear end still has to be changed out. We have an eight inch 3.00 rear end that came with the car which we are going to have the chunk and housing checked on to make sure they are ready to go in the car. I will probably redo the interior in it. Once all of that is done this old pony will be ready for the road. Cheers
 
#35 ·
Make sure you check that transmission closely. Dark transmission fluid almost always means the transmission has been overheated. A little metallic grit is not uncommon - it's natural wear of the clutches. The thing that worries me is having all those things at the same time - dark fluid, metallic particles, and sludge could be an indication of transmission that was damaged due to overheating. If the fluid had a burnt smell, a full teardown is probably in your future.
 
#36 · (Edited)
yeah that worried me too Greg. There was not a lot of metal and it did not smell burnt. The metal just looked like a bit of grit and very little noticeable. The sludge looks like clutch material. I do expect to rebuild in the future, but I'm wanting to hold it off for 6mos to a year. parts alone including a T/C is gonna cost about $1k for a 450 hp rated AOD build.

Mpasternak1, post up some pics! I sometimes feel like I'm talking to myself here, but who knows years from now, someone may be trying to do what I am now and see a little detail I mention that others didn't. There's a million little things you run into and being able to search it out here has been invaluable.
 
#37 ·
More updates. I worked on the car today. Until now, I haven't touched it. I pulled out the Heater box and controls and pulled the seats out. I also put the glass in the passenger door. I've been putting that off because of the degree of suckage to install the windows. I took the opportunity to clean up the regulator. It's nice and smooth now. I probably need new gaskets but I wasn't entirely certain how to get the glass down low enough to get them in. I read about removing the rubber bumper and lowering it, but I couldn't figure how to do it. No screws or press in spots that I could find. Pics...







Then I sat down and stripped the EFI harness down.



also got to get going on this kit.



need to finish reading one of the step by step posts someone did. Then go find those crimpers. Need to see if I can borrow some. I know a guy that's a master ford tech maybe he'll have them.
 
#38 · (Edited)
Wow. Let me preface this by saying I'm an electrician... I think I have reached the Peter principle though, when it comes to this EFI. I started to take out what I could. here's a few things I learned. Don't take all the loom off the harness until you are ready to work with it. I took it off last night. The gremlins came and tied everything in knots. I know I can take out a lot more, but just not entirely sure what, yet. I think it will start to become more clear as I get the car wiring done and I see what is going to be handled by the car loom and what is needed in the EEC loom. Here's some pics....

Both sides of the injector harness.



Thats not too bad. I took out the water temp and oil pressure wire along with the Canister Purge Solenoid connecter.. I will get the water temp and oil pressure from the vehicle harness and will integrate it with the injector harness. I still need to route the distributor, AC and Alternator wires in but the distributor wire is hopelessly knotted.



I have a few wires, that I need to figure out what they are for, as they are not on my little step by step instructions..... It is a series of Black with green tracer wires here it is and its connector.



and there are a couple relays......



Here's what I took out....



Now on to some other stuff I did tonight.... I painted the Tin Man sub-frame connectors with primer... I don't know why they can't send them primed, but now that's done. Hopefully they will go on this week.


And CAA expedited the proper bracket out to me for their compressor and I have that on. The hardware is not quite right, the bolts aren't long enough to be able to use the lock washers. The send you 4 bushings and tell you they are critical to alignment, but you can only use 3 of them. So I need to pick up some 1/2" longer bolts and it should be good to go. They tell you to cut the factory bracket. It's only supposed to be cosmetic, but I found that the pump would hit the bracket if I left it. Looks a lot better with out the horseshoe bracket anyway.



I measured for the belt, I came up with 84.5" so it should be a 845K6 belt.
 
#39 ·


boy that looks familiar. I found it easier to de-pin the EEC connector and mark each wire with the position number. Then you get to fish them around out one by one. The red power is the mess. It runs all up and down and trees off everywhere.

If I were to do it over again, I'd get a 4x4 piece of plywood, lay out where I want all the connectors need to go (as if looking down on the motor), unpin the EEC, and start laying out on the pattern board for routing.
 
#40 ·
I hear you on the wiring spaghetti - in the instructions I sent, I think I mentioned using zip ties to hold the harness together as you unwrap it - it certainly helps! Some of the wires will be in knots since that's the way they were in the harness. In that case, just pull the terminal from the connector the wire goes to and untangle the wire - the connectors all come apart the same way. That will work for most wires.

That relay with the orange/black, red, and black/orange wires is the EEC power relay.

The series of black/green wires should all be grounds. To verify it, do a continuity check from those wires to pin 40 or 60 of the EEC 60 pin connector - both pin 40 & 60 are grounded through those wires. Somewhere in that harness you'll see a lot of black/green wires coming together into a big splice - those are all ground. My harness had a connector on the ground wires that looks like a fuseholder, but it's not a fuseholder. I think it's just some kind of quick disconnect. If that is the case, you can cut that connector off and just toss a big ring terminal on there for your ground connection.
 
#41 ·
yes I believe they are grounds, and it does look like an old tube type fuse connector. The connectors are finnicky. Some of them the pins just pop right out. Some have a death grip on the pins. I know there is a little plastic piece inside that you remove, and then there is a 1 way lock that you have to lift to pull the pin, but it isn't always that easy. I think I'm going to label the harness and de-pin it tonight. I found a really helpful diagram at http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif. Greg your info was great, but the one thing that would help is this pin diagram for the 60 pin connector. That way when you find a purple/green wire and you're going "WTH does this go to" you can look at the pin or wire color and work it that way. I'll get it figured out. But, there is an initial EXTREMELY overwhelming shock when you start jacking with it. I keep thinking I'm missing something cause I got all these damn connectors and nothing to plug them into. Then I look at the Ron Morris wire harness, and Im thinking, THEY don't have all these wires and connectors.... I think what I'm going to do is get a folding table out, and set it behind the motor. Kind of do what James is talking about. So I can lay it out and start to place the wiring. I found an alternator loom from my 94 so that cleared up some of my connectors that I need. the oil and water temp, I removed from the EEC harness and will use the AAW car harness wires for that. I ordered the single and double crimpers from AAW yesterday, I still need to buy the braided loom and the 1" EGR block off plate. Will try and do that tonight. I got the AC compressor mounted and the serpentine belt is now on. I probably could shorten the belt another 1/2" and be perfect, but I think I will leave it where it is for now.
 
#42 ·
More progress... I think I have the harness about figured out now. I pulled up a table and started placing things where the go. That helped tremendously. Still have a few things I have no clue what they are, but we'll get there.



from right to left that is the EEC power relay, Injector relay, Hego plug and the A/C plug. I gotta read about what to do with that, in Gregs notes, tonight.



Again, right to left thats the A/C plug, EEC test port, the 1.21 jiggawatt flux capacitor connector and the duma flachy connector.


Barometric pressure switch


TFI plugged in, coil plugged in, all the injectors and the intake temp sensor


Injectors plugged in, TPS, sensor, maf Sensor, engine coolant temp sensor, and the intake air temp sensor



This is the connections for the alternator I got of the 94 harness. I removed the other sensor connectors from that harness and then just clipped the wires for the internal regulator. I need to read up on it and see where to tie them in.


If all goes well I intend to take it over to a buddies place and put it up on the lift so I can pressure wash the bottom, change out the rear springs, shocks and shackles. Then I will put it on the frame rack and install the Tin Man Sub frame connectors, then back on the lift to undercoat it. Once that is done she will make her last ride with the 289 and C-4. I need to get this 5.0 and AOD stabbed in so I can start hooking things up. I will leave the engine trans out a few days to make some things easier. I think I will pull the front fenders as well to make it easier to do the front suspension upgrades. I need to patch some holes someone cut in the shock towers, years ago. Should be fun!
 
#43 ·
Did not get to take it to my buddies and put it on the lift... so I did it old school. Here is a before spring change.



Here's the car jacked up and the new spring pack. The shocks are KYB gas a just.


And here is after the new springs and shocks are in.


It definitely sits a little taller. I noticed on the passenger side the metal tube that the bushing goes in for the shackle was loose. it seemed to rotate around in there and had some play. That cant be good. doesnt seem to have a lot of meat to weld to in there. I turned it until it tightened up a bit. seems there is something welded to it inside that channel so I was able to get it in a spot where it didnt move, but there is really nothing holding it there.
 
#44 ·
In one of your pictures, you have a rely labeled "injector relay" - not sure what you mean there since there is no relay by that name. The picture is a little fuzzy, but from what I can make out, it looks like the A/C WOT relay. If the wire colors are pink.light blue, red, black/yellow, and orange/light blue it's the A/C WOT relay.

There should only be 3 relays used in the entire EFI wiring mess - 2 are part of the main EFI harness (EEC power & A/C WOT) and the other is the fuel pump relay, which is lcoated in a different harness that plugs into the green rectangular 8 pin connector.
 
#45 · (Edited)
You are probably correct. I had not identified the relays, just that I had 2 of them. I knew one was for the EEC and I thought I had read the injectors had one but now that I think about it, they have a big bundle of red all soldered together. So, I am assuming I can just delete that, since the CAA compressor only has 1 wire? I would like it to do that forward thinking anticipation thingy you were talking about.... (I'm not really that clueless about the terms, just can't recall and cant be bothered to look it up at the moment). Can I re-purpose that relay for my fuel pump? Also need to identify 2 more connectors that I have pictured. The 1.21 jiggawatt flux capacity and the duma flachy one. I went by the junk yard where I got the engine to see about the fuel pump relay and o2 harness.... I was a few days late. they crushed the car this week... so I guess I buy those connectors. However, it was not a total loss. Look what I scored out of 1994 BMW 3.25i



and next to the originals



They fit nicely, but I will need to cut the original seat platform out and lower it at least 2 inches to get to stock height. The seat does have a lift lever on it and makes the back of the seat come up a few inches. They recline, but do NOT tip forward. So, I am going to try and mount them a little closer forward, so that I can just slide the seats as far forward for backseat access. Got them for $150 and the leather is in great condition, just a little dirty. Was going to take the back seats too, but I called the house and had my son measure the opening. Original mustang is max 44" the back seat in the 3.25i is 54", so no dice. But I'm still stoked about these.
 
#46 · (Edited)
You can delete the AC WOT relay if you don't want the EEC to cutout the compressor at wide open throttle. You can use the feed-forward signal from the compressor without using the WC WOT relay by connecting the pink/light blue wire from pin 10 of the 60 pin connector to the +12V supply to your A/C compressor. This +12V supply comes from the A/C controls inside the car - in the EFI harness, it originally came in through the light green/purple wire in the gray round 8 pin connector.

If you want to delete the A/C WOT relay and keep the feed-forward signal, you can do the following:
1. Remove pin 54 (orange/light blue) from the 60 pin connector
2. Follow the red wire at the relay back into the harness to the big splice where all the red wires come together and remove that wire
3. Remove the light green/purple wire form the gray round 8 pin connector
4. At the A/C pressure switch connector, cut the pink/light blue wire that goes to pin 10 of the 60 pin connector (the other pink/light blue goes to the WOT relay)
5. When you install your A/C compressor, splice the pink/light blue wire that goes to pin 10 of the 60 pin connector into the power supply to the A/C compressor clutch.

You should be able to reuse that relay and the wiring going to it as your fuel pump relay. As long as that relay is rated for the amperage of your fuel pump, you can use it for that. I don't know what the rating is right off hand.

Your "flux capacitor" and "duma flachy" connectors appear to be the black & gray round 8 pin connectors that originally connected the EFI harness to the dash harness. It's hard to tell in the picture, but those 2 connectors were originally right next to the EEC test port connector, so that's the basis of my guess.
 
#47 ·
Your "flux capacitor" and "duma flachy" connectors appear to be the black & gray round 8 pin connectors that originally connected the EFI harness to the dash harness. It's hard to tell in the picture, but those 2 connectors were originally right next to the EEC test port connector, so that's the basis of my guess.
Thanks, Greg you are awesome. So if those were dash harness connectors, and I removed the temp sensor and oil sensor wires from the injector harness, then those connectors are not really used except for maybe the check engine light, and I should be able to remove those, correct? I will confirm before I removed, just trying to get the hang of how the harness works. I expect to use the AAW car harness connectors for the gauges, since it connects into the gauges.
 
#48 ·
That is correct - you can cut those connectors off completely and just use the wires that you need. Those 2 connectors and their wires should be described in the stuff I sent to you.
 
#49 ·
Ok, so I got the car on the lift today.... that is something you really don't want to do. Now, I've found a whole new list of stuff I should/need to do. Anyway, got the TinMan sub frame connectors in. It wasn't quite as pain free as their video suggests. Trying to weld the thin unibody metal to 1/4" sub frame connectors is a bit tricky. Even though you grind there is a galvanize on the body metals to prohibit rust. So the welds are not as pretty as I would like. Not to mention, it would be sooooo much easier to weld it on the rack, but I took it off and put in on the frame table for the welding part. Wanted to make sure I was on a level surface and everything was straight. Had some issues with the floor pan, but got out a BFH and re-engineered some of the floor pan. The fit ok. However, they don't fill the front frame rails. So, I had to notch the top a bit and use the BFH to bend the metal over. Then I had to build the metal up a bit to get the plug welds out to the surface. All in all, not too bad. I just gotta do a little grinding to clean things up a bit. Heres an end cap cut off and the plugs pilot drilled. I drilled them out to about 3/4" with a uni bit before plug welding.





and at the back wheel area



and welded in place


A few things I found. The bottom of my car is well oiled.... There is NO tag on the rear end, so no idea what gear ratio. The inside of the driver rotor has some heavy gouges in it. I'm glad Im changing out some of my front suspension parts as the seals look blown.

also.... someone in the past cut holes in the shock towers to access the grease fittings. I can see why they would do that, but I intend to fix them when I pull the 289. would there be anything wrong with taking a piece of say 3/4" or 1" I.D. pipe and welding a little collar there, and then put a second layer of say 3/16 flat plate around it so that it should have at least the same structural integrity as stock but with neat access points for greasing?
 
#50 ·
Getting ready to pull the motor. It should be coming out tomorrow. Since I am replacing upper and lower suspension arms, and all the steering components as well as re-wiring, I decided to pull everything off the front clip. Should have all the sheetmetal off in the morning. Here's a start.


I got the motor and trans bolted together and ready to go in. However going to have a little work to do in the engine compartment before I drop it in.
 
#51 ·
more work today. got all the front sheet metal off, engine and trans out, pressure washed engine compartment and started pulling all the wiring out.









Also have a question..... I hear everyone say you need to shorten the driveshaft for the AOD swap. but the transmission measures 30 3/4" which is the same length as the C4 that was in. So why does it need to be shortened.
 
#52 · (Edited)
Anyone got an answer to my driveshaft question? the only difference I see is the output shaft looks slightly longer, but the AOD and the C4 I have are the same length bell to nose cone.

One other question. I'm about to put the borgeson PS system in. I need to cut the steering tube down. I marked it at the firewall. However, if I angle cut it, the little piece that bolts to it with the pipe clamp doesnt look like it will be all that secure and I cant put the rubber bushing that was in it before. If I square cut it, I can put the rubber bushing in, but dont know how I can secure it to the firewall. I've done a search and seen some say they use a tubing cutter, that cuts square, and I saw another where they angle cut it. So Im confused. And can I purchase just the rubber boots on the tie rod ends. I dont feel any play in them, but the rubber boots were shot. Even more so after the pickle fork got done with them.
 
#53 · (Edited)
well, alrighty then, I'll keep talking to myself. Got a lot done today. Filled in the holes cut in the shock towers, got the borgeson steering column cut down, which needs to be angle cut, btw. Also, the angle of the plate they send is wrong, so I had to notch the top of it a bit to make the tube fit. I took out the seat pans and welded up the holes there. Had some bad spots in the pan where the front section had been replaced before. I decided to just use little sheetmetal patches to fix those as I'm going to undercoat shortly. I figured out my seats. I had measured my racaro seats and they were 2 inches taller than the mustangs. So I measured the seat pan and deducted 2 inches off that. I pulled out the seat pans put in the brackets, test fit the seats and I was in the headliner. I took the brackets out, set it flat on the pan, and it was perfect. So I'm going to get some flat strap to go across the pan and weld bolts to it to give the seats some meat to mount to. I painted the engine compartment and re-mounted the brake booster and master cylinder. I also used the specs to build an EFI mount that JamesW has on his website.... but it wouldn't fit, so maybe its different in the 67. I found a spot it should work in with a little modification. I also am not quite sure how AAW expects you to mount the fuse block dang near on top of the accelerator pedal. I need to try and relocate that as well. I got the firewall and most of the floorpan covered with the foil backed butyl roofing (dynamat clone). The only thing left to cover now is where Im putting the seats but I figure I may need to do some welding and don't want to burn it off. I need to upload the pics, then I'll post them.
 
#55 ·
Hey chuck, thanks for that, I'll double check it against what I got. I just measured it out. Hope I got the configuration right. I think I do as any other way would have had a possible belt rub.
 
#56 ·
The picture is for the 94/95 setup. Your setup (hydrid 91/94 with 6G alternator) may be a little different.

What is the 94's timing cover made of (aluminum, cast steel, etc)? I confirmed that the alternative FMS timing cover I mentioned on Page 1 does not fit the 94/95 water pump, so I need to come up with alternatives that allow me to keep my 94's water pump. I will need it to insure I can clear my Taurus fan.

I must say that you are really cranking along on this project. Mine has been stalled for years. I had started making progress earlier this year, then *WHAM* life comes along and stalls me again.

Good luck with the wiring! Thankfully I am using a carburetor on my 94's engine. Much less wiring. ;-)

Chuck
 
#57 ·
I believe the cover is aluminum. It looks aluminum. It just doesn't have that flat spot on it to drill it for the dipstick. I was looking at brazing the dipstick into the oil pan when I thought I was going to use the 94. There were just too many issues with trying to run A/C option as it hits the shock tower. With a little more fabrication skill, I would have redone the brackets and relocated the PS pump with the AC.

And thanks on the progress. I got a teen about to take his driving test on Sept 8th. I am NOT letting him drive the mustang, but I am gonna let him drive my truck..... So I need to finish this car. I don't think I'm going to make it in time, but I think I will be close to being driveable by then. My next hurdle is the computer. Advance Auto had them for $100... But now the distributor is out of stock. I see them online but am nervous about the condition of them.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top