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My build

51K views 193 replies 31 participants last post by  cyclone03 
#1 ·
Hey all! I have been chomping at the bit to post here. Had to get some things sorted on setting up an account. I used that time to try and read everything I could find on what I'm about to undertake. This will be a lengthy post and I hope I don't step on any toes. I recently bought a 1967 coupe. Body is in very good condition. I looked at tons of cars that had new engines etc but the body was rough. The lines on this one are all straight, little to no bondo and just some surface rust seems to be the worst of it. The previous owner had it painted, and they did a nice job, except they should have gone the extra step and taken care of those surface rust spots. No worries, I'll do that when I change colors. Now to the meat of my post. I intend to use this car as a daily driver. It currently has a 289 with C-4 auto and has power brakes. The 289 had a rotten pipe on the exhaust, I fixed that but its got a lot of other little nuisances. driver motor mount is busted, radiator leaks, although the car runs cool, tranny is leaking pretty good, etc. I bought the car right, and I've still got about $6-7k in my budget for it. I want to modernize it.

I'll go over the motor first. I found a donor 5.0 HO with AOD and fuel injection out of a 93 mustang. Guy said it had 80k miles and ran good. Me being the trusting soul that I am, decided to tear the motor down to be sure. The motor is clean. Very little sludge in the valley and while I didn't mike the cylinders, I can't hang a fingernail on the ridge at the top of the cylinder above where the first ring is and cylinders are not stamped so it's still standard bore. I didn't want to spend money on the heads, but I decided to have them redone. I have a local machine shop porting them and boring the intake to 1.94 and exhaust to 1.60 decking it and checking out the springs. They will also put plugs in the EGR ports for me. I am planning to leave the stock cam in it. Here's what I have left to do: I'm going to wash the block down with solvent and use a wire brush to clean off the carbon. Leaving the freeze plugs, they look fine. Drill the timing chain cover for the dipstick. My late model does not have that nice ledge that is shown in some of the other 5.0 EFI swaps, so not sure what to do unless there is a cover that will work with the serpentine belts that can be drilled. Smog pump had been deleted previously. I will pick up a block off plate from ebay or somewhere for the EGR. I got the timing chain, gasket kit, melling high volume pump, Pick up tube, Water pump, motor mounts from Advance Auto. I need to pick up an A9P computer, but advance sells them for about $90 compared to $250 on ebay. I have all the wiring harnesses for it. I have to get headers an exhaust system, Radiator, High Pressure fuel pump, fuel lines and the sending unit with return built in and an oilpan to complete my engine part of this build. For Exhaust, I would love to go with the JBA ceramic coated midpipe headers for a 5.0 swap, but those are close to $600. Summit has some ceramic coated shorties for $199. Then I was going to pick up 2 hedman starters with the O2 bungs in them already then follow that with a Flowmaster American thunder exhaust system but am open to suggestions (preferably with links). Not sure what size radiator I can put in there. May have to go with an electric fan. Any advice on where to get the fuel lines and in line pump are appreciated as well. On to the tranny.

I have not torn into the tranny yet. I see paint pen markings on the bell housing, so I want to assume its been rebuilt somewhat recently. I'm thinking I am going to drop the pan on the transmission and just look to see if there are any obvious signs of wear. metal sludge in the pan, etc. I ordered the AOD conversion crossbrace and the Lokar TV cable and a new transmission mount from PACT today. I plan to use the yoke from my C-4, along with the dipstick. Planning on using the stock shifter for now. I know I will need to shorten the drive shaft, will have that done locally. On to the suspension.

Stuart over at Steve's mustangs was really patient with all my questions and gave me some really solid advice on this (that reinforced what I had read here). I ordered 5 spring rears for standard ride height. He said to start there, cause I can go down with blocks, but really cant go back up. On the front I ordered new springs and upgraded upper shafts lower control arms bushings and a 1" sway bar. His suggestion was to take off 1" of spring and see how it rides. I'm putting the KYB gas-adjust shocks all the way around. The car currently tracks straight as an arrow, but I'm adding quite a bit of power and also want to add Power steering. I have a guy locally has a Power steering box out of a 67 with the center link that wants $75. It probably will need to be rebuilt. My new motor has a Power steering pump, so I would need the rag joint, new lines and to either cut down the current column or get a new collapsible one. I want the collapsible one anyway. So my debate, is should I just go ahead and get the borgeson kit for almost $1k. Also need to change out the shock tower braces since the stock ones will hit the EFI. Car has power disc brakes already and it stops pretty good now, but will evaluate those when I have it apart. I also ordered a pair of Tin Man subframe connectors.

Other things: I bought an american auto chasis wiring harness and will rewire the car. Found that on Ebay. I intend to put in A/C. I was on perpetual hold with Vintage air the other day. They are local to me so I may have to just go over there. Hoping I can use the current compressor, but I know it isnt R-134 and it get's REALLY hot here in Texas. I'm getting enough B-Quiet Mat to do the roof floor doors trunk and firewall of the car as well. I'm also ordering 3 point safety harnesses. I'd love to knock out the body while I'm at it, but it's passable right now. I know I will need interior and probably should put an alarm on it too. If you guys can think of anything I'm missing or if you have some suggestions please let me know. I'd post pics, just not sure how.
 
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#58 ·
UPDATE:

Ok, here's those pics.

Shock tower hole


and after repair


Seat pan cut out


Started to put the motor in.


Fuzzy pic of it in the car


I found a computer for it. That was a real pain as the A9P is now discontinued and Cardone doesn't have any. But I found it online at Autozone for $96. Ebay is about $200 with no guarantees. So I'm going to get going on the wiring this week. with any luck I'll be trying to start it soon.
 
#59 ·
Hey man looking good. You sure get a lot more done in a day than I do. It took me bout 5 hours just trying to get all metal out of the engine compartment for the rod and custom front end. I hope you make your Sept Deadline.
 
#60 ·
thanks tunacon. However, it seems every step forward is met with an equal and opposite reaction. I cant get the motor mounts to line up. Im hoping I dont have to order those ron morris adjustable mounts. I did try the hedman headers on the driver side and it is a tight fit but easily clears the borgeson unit, so I'm happy about that. I really need to get this motor set so I can start wiring the car.
 
#70 · (Edited)
I cant get the motor mounts to line up. Im hoping I dont have to order those ron morris adjustable mounts.
From what I've seen, the cost of the Ron Morris ones aren't that much more than a set of stock ones. I've found them for $210 a set (either stock or lowered) and $260 for the combo (has both stock and lowered plates so you have everything you need at one time). For my 95, new stock mounts were like $80 each. The Ron Morris mounts would almost certainly fix your issue.

Also, the reason I asked about the timing cover material is I am thinking that a dipstick mount can be fabricated and welded to the cover. If it were cast or pot metal, it couldn't be done. Since it is aluminum, that possibility exists.

I cannot remember. Did you already get a Fox timing cover and drill out the hole?

Man, I'm impressed with your progress. You average more work per minute on yours than I do per year on mine. :( Keep up the good work!!

Chuck

EDIT: Caught up on the thread. I see that you already corrected the engine mounts you had.
 
#62 ·
Looks like you are making great progress. I'm hope the wiring works out for you and the engine fires up without any trouble.

I'm finally making some steady progress on my car. I painted the bottom about 2 weeks ago and assembled the center section for my rear axle. It's the first time I've ever set up a new set of gears - it was actually pretty easy to do. I installed the third member into the housing today and powdercoated a bunch of little parts. I'm hoping to finish painting the engine compartment this week so I can finally install the suspension and get started on the bodywork. Oh the joys of having an old car!

You're doing great - keep up the good work!
 
#63 ·
Thanks Greg! yeah, it's coming along, but lots of hiccups.
 
#65 · (Edited)
Thanks to the awesome help I received here, I got the motor mounted. I drilled the bracket, which corrected the angle on the 67's frame mounts. Here's a pic.



Now the next issue. I set the radiator in place to check clearance. It appears I do NOT have space for the stock fan. So I saved money by drilling the bracket, but the Ron Morris brackets would have really been helpful. I can trim the corners of the sheet metal where the radiator mounts and gain about 3/4-1". I think I will try and find an electric fan. Here's the pic



I also checked the headers again now that the engine is mounted. They fit fine with over an inch of clearance. So those Hedman's are the way to go. I'm sure the JBA's work good too, but were more expensive.

This point in this build was one of my benchmarks. I'm hoping to get going on the wiring tomorrow. I need to drill the hole for the EFI harness and get the bracket mounted for the computer. I'm still nervous about the EFI harness. I'm wanting to cut it down and re-loom it. Since I don't have an O2 harness, I think I am just going to make my own and solder and shrink wrap the connections. would rather have quick connects there, but a harness is $100.

I'm needing to get a new set of gauges, but I really didn't want to spend the money on that right now. I like these
DAKOTA DIGITAL 67 68 Ford Mustang Analog Dash Gauge Instruments VHX-67F-MUS NEW | eBay I really want the Sport Comp gauges, but these are priced right.
 
#66 ·
I also checked the headers again now that the engine is mounted. The fit fine with over an inch of clearance. So those Hedman's are the way to go. I'm sure the JBA's work good too, but were more expensive.

JBA's are the only ones I could find to fit the gt40p head.
 
#68 ·
build & swap stuff

TxTDad, love your thread. I'm an engine guy, so you are pointing out lots of little details I never think about, or haven't run into. Buts it is all good stuff, 'cause lots of us are doing or will be doing some of what you are now. carry on, we are loving this.
On your new engine......when you were going thru all of your sh-- getting pieces, did you check your camshaft ? I ask because many of the F150s in the late 80s and early 90s were equipped with a flat 15426378 hydro cam, but installed in a roller block. the roller block was the only one being cast at the time, so everybody got one starting in something '85.......and the cars got roller hydro 13726548 cam. So it could be that you got a car engine that had been re-short blocked with truck parts. You'll want to be certain that someone who had incomplete knowledge didn't put flat lifters on a roller cam, or rollers on a flat cam- don't laugh, I've seen folks do both. You also want to be sure your dizzy gear matches your cam. Did you use the HV pump ? I put HV pumps into every engine that I can get one for. Don't believe the old wives tale about 'sucking a pan dry' .....thats a misunderstanding.

Engines are interesting, you never know what you'll find when you open one up. we regularly have folks coming into the shop wondering why the main bearings don't fit, many of the Chevy guys put the thrust on #5. We pulled apart an engine yesterday that the owner had assembled himself, he complained of a 'knock' . His crank had been turned, 010 on the mains and 030 on the rods- but he assembled it with standard size bearings. So he had something like 012 clearance on the mains and 032 on the rods.

And on the subject of engines, what are you going to do with your 289 pieces ? Guys like me want your small chambered 289 heads and the 5.155 long rods.

LSG
 
#69 ·
Hey LSG, THANKS! I always appreciate the encouragement. It's easy to get frustrated on these projects. Let me see if I can cover your questions. I used the motor that came out of the 94 but used the accessory brackets off the 91. I did pull the cam on the roller motor, but as that was a 94 I wasn't concerned about it. I did use the dizzy from the 91 as they are very different in 94. I went with the standard volume oil pump. Talked with several people and the higher volume didn't seem to have enough benefit vs the "issues" I was hearing about. I don't have any plans for the 289 and c-4. It is running though. It had a cracked exhaust header and started and ran well. C4 shifted fine, but leaked fluid at the vacuum thingy (that's a technical term). It is serial matched to the car..... but not real concerned about that. Debated on finding an old non running stang and maybe drop it in and re-sell. Ive seen a few around for about $1500 or so. Anywho, on to progress.

So I'm planning to get some wiring done today. My A9P computer came in at Autozone. So I picked that up. I got some OSPHO in a spray bottle and am going to treat the underside of the dash and the rusted through Vents. Since I'm putting in the CAA A/C I need to block those off. I found these plastic repair pieces that fit up in there. So I will wire brush them as best I can treat with the OSPHO then I got a tube of NP1 (a flexible sealant). The repair panels come with sealant but I want to use a LOT of it. I needed to finish my brackets for the seats so I could weld them in and not mess up the soundproofing. Here the seats are in.



Pay no attention to some of the welds under here I still need to clean them up a bit and undercoat. I used some 1 1/2" strap to reinforce the seat and grade 8 bolts. I also welded some sheet metal over the access holes for the stock seat mounts.



Seats are comfy but steering wheel definitely feels too big. Since its condition is so rough anyways, I'm going to drop to a 13 1/2" wheel. I'll have another update later today.
 
#71 ·
You can try the fan from a 95-00 V6 Ford Contour, 99-02 V6 Mercury Mystique or 99-02 V6 Mercury Cougar. They are dual fans and should allow you some clearance between the engine and the radiator. You should be able to find them in the boneyard for a few dollars or the local parts counters for more (but new with a warranty). Grab the pigtail that connects to the fan's pigtail. I would think the A9L should be able to control them. Set one as "low" and the other as "high".

Chuck
 
#72 ·
stock motor mounts are only $13.... granted, they arent really good. I have only about 3" of clearance between water pump and radiator, so thats not a lot. I DID get a timing cover and drilled it out. You also have to drill the alternator bracket and then bend the dipstick tube a bit to make it fit, as it comes up right by the webbing. I just finished puttng the peel and seal down (generic Dynomat) and sprayed the underside of the dash with the OSHPO. So while that cures and off gasses I'm inside cooling off. I'll have pictures later after I get the top hats in place with lots of sealant. I soon will have no excuse but to work on the wiring..... seems my efforts to delay that have about run their course.
 
#73 ·
For some reason photobucket isnt uploading pics at the moment. So I will edit the post later.

Here's a pic of the top hats.


So I got them all treated and put in the repair pieces. I was very pleased with how they turned out.

So then I started working on the CAA A/C. Was fairly straight forward and not too dificult. I got the Evaporator unit in.


Creates some issues on where I can put the computer and the new fuse box.

Got all the Peel and Seal down.

I started on the wiring. I'm freaking out a bit with this. I really should take the 60 pin connector apart and start shortening wires. But I havent found an easy way to take the pins out of the connector. some come easy some dont. I could just cut the wires and make my splices. but I'm terrified of cutting about 40 wires. The wires are just a mess and like I said, the AC makes the placement of the computer very precarious. There is a lot of space above the glove box. I think I can make a sheetmetal tray to hold it, above the box there. I have a few connectors I just have no idea what they go to or how I tie into them. like the green one on the cab side of the firewall. I need to pull out the AC relay for WOT cut out. Not sure why you need a relay to cut off the AC..... but Im going to repurpose that relay for the fuel pump and I need to find an O2 harness or make one. Here's the mess. I'll post more pics when photobucket starts working again.
 
#74 ·
For an O2 harness, you should be able to go to the local boneyard and snag the O2 sensor connectors and just wire up the rest. The local auto parts stores may even have the pigtails on the shelf. The 94/95 Mustangs use two (one per side, just after the collector). I would guess the 93 Mustangs did the same. I don't have any wiring diagrams for the A9L setup, but you may look in here. They have some wiring diagrams available. If not, Corral.net may be able to help.

Chuck
 
#75 ·
Ok, Photobucket was working again this morning so I have some pics.

Driver side cowl vent, Before


Cowl repair part with the NP1 on thick.


D/S cowl vent, After


Sound deadener/ radiant barrier all in on the floorpan.


And the spaghetti harness.
 
#76 ·
Wow..... Not getting squat done today but scratching my head.... The AAW wiring kit is really nice, and every wire is labled. Trying to move it around is like wrestling with a python. Its got a ton of wire in that fuse block. Trouble I'm having is I installed an AC unit and its designed for no AC and the stock accelerator pedal. I took the accelerator pedal out of the 91 mustang. On a side note, Windsor Fox had all the cool adapters to make life easy for these swaps. Of course they are now out of business. So I was over at mustang fords website where they showed the adapter here.


so like I've said, I'm an electrician and I recognize that metal they are using or the adapter. It's Kendorf, or uni-strut, or metal lumber depending on the age of the electrician you talk to. So I pull some out of my shop and WAH LAH!



And it seems to be just perfect distance for the firewall to the pedal and enough for WOT. Trouble is the gap between the pedal and the AC is about 1/2 too close to fit the pedal properly and get the fuse block in there. I called AAW and the guy pretty much shrugged his shoulders and said it was designed to fit, but without AC..... Well no SH*T Sherlock.... So now I gotta relocate it, and tie it in to the EFI harness... Maybe I'll just wipe off all the labeling just so it will be more of a challenge. I think since the fresh air vent is now gone, there is room on the upper part of the driver kick panel. So I figured I better water test my new repair pieces if I'm going to put the electrical system feed there. And guess what. It leaked. So I think I need to use a lot more pookie. I had to pry the old one out an this stuff holds REALLY well. The passenger side didn't leak so that's good. Oh well.... better get to it.
 
#77 ·
well folks..... My project really stalled because of the wiring. I could probably figure it out, but I'm working full time, going to school full time, and on a deadline. So I bit the bullet and ordered the RJM harness. Another part of my reasoning is I don't have the O2 harness or the fuel relay. The RJM has no need for the O2 harness since it's built in. The O2 harness runs about $100 on ebay. I got my harness disassembled now and somewhat laid out but I need to make a lot of cuts and solder joints etc, and I just decided waiting the 4 days for it to come in would be faster. And now i can focus on some other stuff, like the body harness I need to work on. Oh God..... Well, I think I'll go see if I can make some progress there.
 
#80 ·
yes I am aware that it doesn't stop the rust. I treated it with Ospho which does stop the rust. However, I don't intend to leave it that way. But this will take care of it until I take care of the bodywork. When that time comes I will probably close off the grill in front of the windshield. It doesnt rain here very often anyways. I also have one of those little clear covers that goes over the grill.
 
#81 ·
#82 ·
I have factory a/c so I had my main dash harness rebuilt for $175 and it works perfectly now........
Unfortunately, I didn't see that as an option. Not enough circuits there. It shouldn't be too much trouble to relocate it. It just means cutting some of the zip ties. I just don't want to have another spaghetti bundle of wires. However, AAW labels every wire, on the wire. So you can look at any wire anywhere in the car and tell what it goes to. That is extremely helpful.
 
#83 ·
Haven't updated in a while. Wont have any pics just yet. Let's see, what all have I done. I ordered another batch of parts. I was going to replace all the tie rod ends etc. but that was close to $300. All the ends seemed fairly tight, so I just ordered new tie rod dust boots along with some other bushing related to steering for about $30. I removed the front springs and got the lower control arms changed and new strut rod bushings put on. I am going to replace the upper control arms but planning to do the shelby drop and cut the springs down a bit, this weekend. I ordered a new battery tray with all the tie down hardware and got it in. My original steering wheel was in pretty bad shape, so I ordered a new walnut grant steering wheel and got it all assembled. haven't tightened it down cause I cant really straighten the wheel. did turn it lock to lock and then set it at the half way but I could be off a bit. I decided to go with a 13 1/2" instead of the 15 since its a bit tight in the cab with the bigger seats. I ordered new gauges for it. Dakota Digital vhx-67f-mus in the Blue with silver alloy backs. Extremely easy to put together and look awesome. Priced reasonable too. Ordered a 20 gallon tank for the car. My tank was fine, but figured I could use the 4 extra gallons. From what I have read it brings the floor level up to even in the trunk, I also got a new rubber filler neck to make install easier. I got the driveshaft cut down and installed with new greasable U-joints.

So I'm right on the brink. I'm hoping to get the front end all finished up this weekend. Additionally, I am hoping to make some headway on the wiring. I got a few bugs to work out. I noticed the oil pan is very close to, if not touching, the crossmember. I need to get the radiator mounted and I have to pick up a fan. Anyone know if I get a countour fan, does it have the relays and controls all built in? Seems the controllers cost as much as the fans. Also, I dont know where these people are finding them for $15 cause every junk yard around wants over $200. Brand new a dorman is $199. I did find one for $100 and another for $150 that has the pigtail. I can get a pigtail for a few bucks so I may check that out. The aluminum radiator I got from Summit has the overflow tube pointing towards the front rather than along the radiator. That's just dumb. Anyone know how high I can mount the radiator so the cap doesn't hit the hood?
 
#86 · (Edited)
I was going to replace all the tie rod ends etc. but that was close to $300.
What all were you going to replace? I had priced the inner and outer tie rods, plus the adjustment sleeves locally (AutoZone, I think) for only $116.

Anyone know if I get a countour fan, does it have the relays and controls all built in? Seems the controllers cost as much as the fans. Also, I dont know where these people are finding them for $15 cause every junk yard around wants over $200. Brand new a dorman is $199. I did find one for $100 and another for $150 that has the pigtail. I can get a pigtail for a few bucks so I may check that out.
Your junk yard is over priced! I got my Taurus (different from the Contour) fan from Barry's U-Pull-It (in Biloxi, MS) for $15 or $20. The Pick-N-Pull near you (at 10606 Roosevelt Avenue) is asking $27 for the Taurus fan and $37 for the Contour fan (both with core charge included). The fan itself does not include the relays. If you do pull the fan, also get a bit of the pigtail that connects to the fan's connector. I didn't when I grabbed mine and now regret it.

I am looking at using the TorqFlo adjustable controller from Autozone (PN 733647). It (as of September 2012) retails for $35. There are also other options, ranging in price from $45 to $150.

Chuck
 
#84 · (Edited)
I started puttng the AAW harness in a few days ago. Got the rear body harness in. Was hoping to have the EFI harness here from RJM, but it hasn't come in, and they don't answer the phone or return emails. since there's some redundancies in the car harness and the efi harness and I don't have it, I am not sure what I can remove, except the obvious stuff. Also, I cant place the harness where it was designed to go because of the A/C. So I started to rework the harness. Its like wrestling with an angry anaconda. I'd like to loom the whole thing but I really cant. They also dont route every wire where they should. Anyway, got all of the engine bay harness reworked and some of the under dash harness. Won't really know until I put it in the car if I've got some of the lengths right. They should be good as its roughly the same distances, just moved from center of the firewall to the left kick plate. Here's a pic.

the wires are quite long, so there's plenty to work with. I will loom most of what I can, which is the engine compartment. The under dash part has all the connectors on so isn't as easy. I also need to run a few extra wires for the electric fuel pump, the harness has a provision for that, but i know the EFI harness definitely does. So I will use the connections of the harness, but tie the EFI into it when I get it. The AAW is nice, it has provisions for 3rd brake light, power windows, fog lights and several auxiliary circuits. Hopefully, i'll get the harness installed this weekend. Maybe RJM will be so kind as to send out the EFI harness I paid for. I'm dieing to fire this thing up.
 
#87 ·
I wanted to add that, according to the Pick-N-Pull inventory checker, today (20 Sept 2012) they have nearly 30 95-00 Contours, 99-02 Mercury Mystiques and Cougars in the San Antonio lot. Not all of them will be V6s, but the chances of finding the Contour fan are really good.

Chuck
 
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