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post #136 of 148 (permalink) Old 06-06-2016, 01:30 AM Thread Starter
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So my Megasquirt updates and lessons learned:

1. My first unit has a bad processor (I bought two used, unknown condition MS1 units from a friend a few years ago). This gave very weird readings and was confusing as hell.

2. There are two gauges in Tuner Studio which can display your O2 sensor. Front Bank and Rear Bank. I don't know much about why they work like this, but the front bank gauge I was originally using had a .2v offset, which is too much when you're only talking .1-.9 full sensor swing. Rear bank reads fine.

3. I had a bad TPS. It would sweep nice and smooth, but upon startup would start very quickly to give negative throttle positions. Also confusing. Eventually I swapped it with another used one and the problems went away.

I just started tuning it in the last day or so, fiddling with the warm up enrichment and what not, but have to get my fan wired up again. This is a long time coming, as I've probably had the parts for 5 yrs already, just never got around to actually doing it! Although you can mod the MS1 boxes to control a fan, I'm just making it separate, using the BMW radiator mounted switch and a separate relay under my battery box for a relatively clean installation.

The sensor uses a fine thread M14x.... which I didn't have of course (I had a FINER one...M14x1...which I've not used EVER) BUT, it just so happens that I had some nuts which were the right thread and welded one onto a wrought "T" to put on my heater hose line (since there's no shut off valve to the heater). The sensor also has a red fiber/rubber gasket of some sorts on it already, so I'll use some Loctite thread sealant on the threads and hope the little fiber washer thingy takes care of the rest.




1965 Coupe, 351w + T5 -------- 1978 280z, 4.6 DOHC + T45
Build Post (Here on VMF) ---- Build Post (On HybridZ)

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post #137 of 148 (permalink) Old 06-10-2016, 02:51 AM Thread Starter
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BMW Thermo Switch Clarifications

"Remove the connector from the thermo switch. Look down into the switch you will see a T1 that is low speed and the one labeled T2 is hi speed the remaining one is your common, it should be labeled 0."

Found the above info on a YouTube video. Additionally, he mentions the thread is M14x1.5. I failed to include the pitch in my last post.

T1=low speed= 91deg
T2=high speed=99deg

Don't worry about your harness colors, as mine didn't match the wiring diagrams I found online, just verify from the switch.

1965 Coupe, 351w + T5 -------- 1978 280z, 4.6 DOHC + T45
Build Post (Here on VMF) ---- Build Post (On HybridZ)

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post #138 of 148 (permalink) Old 06-10-2016, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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(apparently we can't edit posts to add info anymore?? Oh well.)

Parts list:

61-13-1-378-410 - plug housing part number (1x)
61-13-0-007-446 - Wire receptacle with pigtail (3x)
61-31-1-378-073: Standard M5 Double temperature switch 91/99 deg C
61-31-8-361-787: E36 318 Double temperature switch 80/88 deg C

If you don't want to "T" it into your heater hose with hardware store plumbing like I did, you'll also need a "radiator hose adapter" for one of your radiator hoses with the M14x1.5 thread. (purchased as such or re-threaded).

Regarding wiring, you'll want it tied to a 12v 'ignition on' wire, I used a close by wire which was my alternator 'sense' wire. It requires ~0.16A to trigger the relay's coil, so overtaxing the alt sense circuit is not really a concern here. (12V/75ohm coil resistance)

Remember if you're still using the points ignition setup, the hot wire from the ignition switch only provides ~6v to your points in the 'RUN' position. Standard 12V Bosch/Tyco relays require MIN 8V to energize, so you'll need to find another source wire.

Also, here's a few good links for Bosch relay PNs and general usage and explanations:

Bosch Relay Catalog

General Relay How-To

1965 Coupe, 351w + T5 -------- 1978 280z, 4.6 DOHC + T45
Build Post (Here on VMF) ---- Build Post (On HybridZ)


Last edited by yellowoctupus; 06-10-2016 at 10:01 AM. Reason: added relay info
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post #139 of 148 (permalink) Old 06-10-2016, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by yellowoctupus View Post
(apparently we can't edit posts to add info anymore?? Oh well.)
There is a time limit to edit posts, so older posts do not have their info changed. I am sure one of the Forum Admin's can tell us how much time we have till it's locked in.

1969 Shelby GT350 Hertz rebuild Gallery
Delivered to Ball Ford in Miami Florida, purchased by Hertz Rent A Car for delivery to Miami Internation Airport
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post #140 of 148 (permalink) Old 06-10-2016, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
There is a time limit to edit posts, so older posts do not have their info changed.
Yup, and it's a small window. My post at 5:42AM is no longer editable at 8:23AM. (which is not a problem, it's just fast)

1965 Coupe, 351w + T5 -------- 1978 280z, 4.6 DOHC + T45
Build Post (Here on VMF) ---- Build Post (On HybridZ)

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post #141 of 148 (permalink) Old 10-07-2016, 01:48 AM Thread Starter
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Siamese Surgery

After way too long, and trying to tune out the intermittent off-closed throttle catch in the throttle, I separated the two sets of TBs I've got and ran them on individual bell cranks. What was happening is that the engine would warm up, the pedestals that the TBs were mounted to would start to move around (thermal expansion) and then the butterflies would start getting caught on the sides of the TB bores. Made driving pretty miserable. The fix only took one late night of making new parts and now everything seems very smooth, when the engine's warm, cold, whatever. Pictures to come shortly of the 'new' mods.
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1965 Coupe, 351w + T5 -------- 1978 280z, 4.6 DOHC + T45
Build Post (Here on VMF) ---- Build Post (On HybridZ)

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post #142 of 148 (permalink) Old 05-12-2017, 03:01 AM Thread Starter
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I finally filled up my steering box with grease (it had some, but wasn't full), and like every time I deal with a grease gun, it turns into some sort of fiasco. Long story short, I got it filled up after running out of grease in the big gun once, stripping out the body threads in the small gun, then filling the large gun by hand with little cartridges. Fun times. http://www.stangerssite.com/lubrication.html

Finally upgraded from the cheapo-F150 style external fuel pump that you could hear over the engine running. Easily. I was also running an in tank low pressure 'pickup' pump that was literally dangling inside the tank, which sketched me out. Tried to get a Jeep Cherokee sending unit and tank companion flange in, but that turned into a mess. So, I made a dummy filler plate for the original Mustang sending unit hole, and made up some fancy parts to weld into the top of the tank to mate up a '93 Mark VIII sending unit. The 3/8" and 5/16" push lock lines take the same connectors as Chrysler, so I yanked one line from my '93 Cherokee parts car, and got both. After you shave off the nylon lines carefully as to not damage the barbs, a standard 5/16" high pressure hose pushes right on. Note I used those special hose clamps so the outside of the rubber lines don't get chowed up. I also have no idea what type of connector this is in the last picture, but its really high quality and worked nicely.






1965 Coupe, 351w + T5 -------- 1978 280z, 4.6 DOHC + T45
Build Post (Here on VMF) ---- Build Post (On HybridZ)

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post #143 of 148 (permalink) Old 05-12-2017, 08:19 AM
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just read your 280 build. that thing is beyond cool. any updates on that one?

66 mustang coupe, 302 / T5-Z / 3.80 trac-lok

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post #144 of 148 (permalink) Old 05-12-2017, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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280z

Quote:
Just read your 280 build. That thing is beyond cool. Any updates on that one?
Hey, thanks! Lots of time wrapped into the Z. Probably not as much as the Mustang, but still it's been a work in progress since I bought it back in '07. Well, I've been working on a manifold for a M122 Cobra supercharger on and off for...a long time now. That project is coming close to resurfacing (it's cool, but not high on my priority list); I'll update the post once I get my a*s in gear and get something done.
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1965 Coupe, 351w + T5 -------- 1978 280z, 4.6 DOHC + T45
Build Post (Here on VMF) ---- Build Post (On HybridZ)

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post #145 of 148 (permalink) Old 05-12-2017, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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It's been quite a while since I checked my spreadsheet, but SURVEY SAYS....... $541. Of course this is including the sale of the first 351w, and although it also does not include Rack & Pinion steering I originally had in my goals, I did rebuild everything in the steering system with this budget.
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1965 Coupe, 351w + T5 -------- 1978 280z, 4.6 DOHC + T45
Build Post (Here on VMF) ---- Build Post (On HybridZ)

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post #146 of 148 (permalink) Old 05-13-2017, 12:26 AM Thread Starter
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So, although my home-lengthened Foxbody shifter worked ok, it lacked a certain finesse and looked weird, so I copied the Hurst shifter dimensions, and made one out of some 1/2" rod I had laying around and a cue ball from a kids 3 in 1 pool table. Also I used the round style Mr Gasket PN 1651 as I like the look of the round 'Shelby Cobra' looking boots. Luckily, the hole through the center is also 1/2" so it fit nice and snug.

It looks a little 'Rat-Finky' compared to stock, but it's very comfortable to drive being right next to the steering wheel; you don't have to drop your hand to the floor to shift.
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg IMG_4762 - Copy.JPG (54.7 KB, 24 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4761 - Copy.JPG (34.0 KB, 29 views)

1965 Coupe, 351w + T5 -------- 1978 280z, 4.6 DOHC + T45
Build Post (Here on VMF) ---- Build Post (On HybridZ)

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post #147 of 148 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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Since I never actually posted a picture of the 'dual bellcrank' setup, here it is. I feel it's cleaner in person than it looks here, but meh, maybe it's just all that other ugly looking stuff that draws the eye, like the dirty OEM valve covers and that rusty fuel rail.... The lower rod goes to the throttle pedal, the upper obviously connects the two bellcranks to open at the same rate.

Hope everyone's having a great weekend, it's beautiful in Western Washington today! (aka, it's not raining for once!)


1965 Coupe, 351w + T5 -------- 1978 280z, 4.6 DOHC + T45
Build Post (Here on VMF) ---- Build Post (On HybridZ)

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post #148 of 148 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 02:09 AM Thread Starter
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Here's an interesting injector note. I realized after doing all this crazy work with the fuel pump etc, that I FORGOT A FILTER!! I was somewhat suspecting injectors already, as it's always had a stumbly idle (this engine is basically stock inside, no reason for rumbly idles...), then it started running worse and worse in the last 50miles, to the point where I really had to limp it home. I think I may have clogged something up, or they just coincidentally performed worse and worse.

Anyhow, the interesting point is that I dug around in my parts pile, found a big ol bag of what looks like brand new Chrysler injectors (24#), I put them in and the engine runs way smoother now, without even telling the megasquirt I have larger injectors. Hopefully a little tuning tomorrow will put things even further down the road to happiness

If you want to run SHORT injectors (these were maybe...1/4"-3/8" shorter than stock) the stock Ford lower manifold just needs new rail hold down holes drilled and tapped into the manifold bosses. Super easy, you put in all of your injectors, mark, drill, tap, put the stock screws back in and you're done. Ford machined the boss all the way down and there's a ton of extra meat to tap into.

1965 Coupe, 351w + T5 -------- 1978 280z, 4.6 DOHC + T45
Build Post (Here on VMF) ---- Build Post (On HybridZ)

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