Brian's 66 coupe build - Vintage Mustang Forums

 29Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 358 (permalink) Old 01-06-2015, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Caper50's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 3,261
Brian's 66 coupe build

Since I lost the pics for the first 12 pages of my project, I have decided to start another thread, maybe some will learn from my mistakes. Each of us has our own vision and ideas of what we want and how we want to get to the end result. I'm the first to admit I would do a few things differently if there's ever a 'next time'.

My reasoning for taking on this project was a need for a new hobby; sometimes you have to be careful what you ask for...you might just get it. Many times I've thought, why didn't I just buy a restored car to begin with. Aftermarket parts come with a 99% chance that they'll need tweaking; some will need a lot. Not sure why we get so off track for the want of everything to fit perfectly. Since I grew up in a body shop during the 60's, 70's and the 80's I know this was not fact, new vehicles came with 'terrible by today's standards' fit and finish but we insist on it for our restorations.

Without further adieu here's where I started:

Caper50 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 358 (permalink) Old 01-06-2015, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Caper50's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 3,261
Initially I thought I'd rebuild the brakes and drive it for a summer or two before starting a major tear down. A couple of evenings with a buffer and the ole girl came back to life pretty quickly.

Caper50 is offline  
post #3 of 358 (permalink) Old 01-06-2015, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Caper50's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 3,261
Well after the brakes were done and a few sleepless nights back in my camp room...restlessness set in and I decided to heck with it. If I'm going do this thing may as well get it started.

Caper50 is offline  
 
post #4 of 358 (permalink) Old 01-06-2015, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Caper50's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 3,261
Got the tired old engine out. That's me in the orange.



After degrease and wire wheel.



Caper50 is offline  
post #5 of 358 (permalink) Old 01-06-2015, 10:02 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Caper50's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 3,261
Engine back from rebuilder, I put on a few coats of Ford Corporate blue and a rebuilt 2 barrel Autoline carb.



Change of plans, swapped valve covers for chrome and HIPO exhaust manifolds from NPD...great fit.



Caper50 is offline  
post #6 of 358 (permalink) Old 01-06-2015, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Caper50's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 3,261
Next replaced drivers door post and side cowl and sectioned passenger side cowl. I decided to remove the dash to make it easier to do the side cowl since it consisted of only a few spot welds per side. While I had it out I decided to strip and put a coat of etch primer for corrosion protection. Firewall is next then the thoroughbred floor.

















I made this jig before I cut anything out to ensure the post went back in the correct position. The door to no time to realign after doing this.





Caper50 is offline  
post #7 of 358 (permalink) Old 01-06-2015, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Caper50's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 3,261
Sectioned the passenger side.







Cleaned up the dash while it was out.





Got it welded back in and a coat of etch primer.

Caper50 is offline  
post #8 of 358 (permalink) Old 01-06-2015, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Caper50's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 3,261
Originally I had planned on patching the firewall but after determining it needed too many patches I opted for the full panel.



A trial fit



I decided a quick repair to the rear fender aprons was needed and I wanted to lay the inner and outer cowl in to make sure everything was going to go back in the factory locations.



Caper50 is offline  
post #9 of 358 (permalink) Old 01-06-2015, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Caper50's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 3,261
Next up is the inner and outer cowl. Since I had already done a trial fit with the firewall I prepped it for the final install. Sanded both sides followed with 2 coats of epoxy primer and a couple of coats of black acrylic lacquer for the inside of both panels. Seam seals the hats after the epoxy and before the paint.

Knocked out all the holes for plug welds.








Some weld thru primer and welded inner to outer panel along the windshield mounting area.



Epoxy primer and taped edges where weld thru primer was sprayed for welding to the body.



A splash of lacquer





And final welding.







Caper50 is offline  
post #10 of 358 (permalink) Old 01-06-2015, 10:48 PM
Senior Member
 
Israel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 5,688
What happened ??!!

Wife,........."You drove how far for that thing?"
Daughter,..."Theres no inside and it stinks."
Friend,......."Dude, thats a rusted piece of sheet."
Son,.........."This old car is cool."

USMC Security Forces, Kamiseya Japan, 0311

Build Thread: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vi...sted-pile.html
Israel is offline  
post #11 of 358 (permalink) Old 01-06-2015, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Caper50's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 3,261
Next up in a full floor and frame rail assembly from Thoroughbred Manufacturing. I bought a bunch of 1"x1" stock to brace the interior and keep the car from flexing. The floor doesn't look that bad in the picture, I had originally planned on doing floor pans but I also had to do both rear frame rails, torque boxes had a lot of pin holes, trunk floor and drop offs were bad and previously patched and the transition pan was rusted pretty heavily. Just made more sense to replace everything in one shot.



Plasma cutter came in handy






To cut the floor out I added some extra bracing and used an engine lift and slings to grab the rear of the car through the speaker holes and for the front I made a cradle and used 2 trailer jacks to raise the front.






Last edited by Caper50; 01-06-2015 at 10:59 PM.
Caper50 is offline  
post #12 of 358 (permalink) Old 01-06-2015, 11:11 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Caper50's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 3,261
Built a body cart from a drawing provided for by birddog.



I raised the car and rolled the floor from the side. The tough part was getting the firewall lip tucked under the floorpan. Remember you have to do battle with the contour of the tunnel as well. For this I got the floor to where it was just about touching the firewall and then got out every thin scraper and putty knife I had and used them for wedges to guide the firewall lip under the floor. Notice the bracket I made up bolted to my lower control arm mounts. That pipe running across the front end was parallel to the front of the body cart. I obviously couldn't push or pull the floor ahead given all the friction of the frame rails and the inner to outer rockers. I took a big pinch bar and used it as a lever between the front apron support and the front of the body cart. I was pleasantly surprised I was able to pull the floor in it's final resting place by myself.













































Caper50 is offline  
post #13 of 358 (permalink) Old 01-06-2015, 11:18 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Caper50's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 3,261
Before any welding, myself and a friend bolted up all the sheet metal to ensure everything was lined up correctly. This added a lot of work but is a necessary step. Too late to make adjustments for a poorly fitting panel if this important step is bypassed.



































Caper50 is offline  
post #14 of 358 (permalink) Old 01-06-2015, 11:20 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Caper50's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 3,261
Floor assy. is welded in and primed.





Caper50 is offline  
post #15 of 358 (permalink) Old 01-06-2015, 11:23 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Caper50's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 3,261
Some recommendations to anyone else doing this floor.
  1. Take photo's of each and every body line and gap on the car before dis-assembly.
  2. Take a photo of your original floor as it sits at your wheel houses on each side and inside the trunk panels. Note where the inner rocker sits against the outer rocker. There are notches as well in the inner and outer rockers, mine were bang on.
  3. To mark some reference points drill 1/8" holes, they can be welded up when done. This would have saved me a few headaches and makes for faster alignments.
  4. Get a helper to aid in measurements and make your own frame chart to your car. Trust me you will need it.
  5. Brace the body well, the less anything shifts the easier it is to align everything.
  6. The trickiest part for me was that last inch at the firewall. I made my cart long enough to reach the cradle I put on my front clip. This came in handy to use as a fulcrum point with a pinch bar to pull the floor assy. in place. It took no effort at all to slide it that last inch using this, once I got a bunch flat bars to guide the firewall under the floor.
  7. Once everything is clamped, and you will need a couple of dozen clamps at least. I think I have close to 30 and I used everyone of them.
  8. If you are 99.9% sure the floor is in the correct location weld about 4 plug welds on each side of the upper inner and outer rocker so you can remove the clamps to mount the doors back on. I also did one weld on the inner rocker as well about 6" from the wheel houses on the inner rockers. You don't want to go too crazy yet in case you have to drill these back out in case you over looked something.
  9. Doors were ligned up with quarters and rockers first. Hood was next, aligned with cowl and then the fenders. I'm sticking the head light buckets and grille back in as well to make sure my hood gap is right. This was the 2nd time I had to re-hang the sheet metal, 1st time was for the cowl. Just one more time baby!
Caper50 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Vintage Mustang Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome