My 1967 build - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #16 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-31-2016, 12:42 AM Thread Starter
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I took advantage of some 60 degree weather today and fit the toe board. I was dreading it a bit with all the angles and such but it turned it pretty nice. I still have the holes to drill in the toe board for the plug welds. Mark the holes on the torque box and apply some weld thru primer.

Ordered some Eastwood internal frame coating and Master Series sealer/primer today. The frame rail has some surface rust in it and the Eastwood coating should take care of that. The Master Series will go on the torque box and toe board to keep the moisture away.

Once the toe board is in place I can start on the drivers floor pan and seat pedestal (still to be ordered). Yay
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File Type: jpg DSCN0143.jpg (82.3 KB, 40 views)

1967 Mustang Coupe.
"It's not a problem it's a project"
My Build Thread: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...967-build.html



Last edited by rgoniea; 01-31-2016 at 01:25 AM.
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post #17 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-12-2016, 12:49 AM Thread Starter
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Nice and warm today. Warm enough to apply the first coat of the Master Series Silver to the top of the torque box and bottom of the toe board. Tomorrow will be almost as warm and each piece will get a second coat.

Saturday will be spent sanding the edges of the toe board where the welds will be. Start welding it place, get the welds cleaned up and apply some more MSS.
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File Type: jpg DSCN0144.jpg (80.6 KB, 40 views)

1967 Mustang Coupe.
"It's not a problem it's a project"
My Build Thread: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...967-build.html


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post #18 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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I can't believe it's been over a year since I last updated this build. I haven't forgotten about it, in fact I've been busy getting things patched and the quarter panels ready to go on. So let's see what's been going on with the car.

I have finished up the torque box, toe board and drivers side floor pan. Below are some pictures to you get you caught up.
With the torque box in place, time to start the toe board fitting. Getting it all welded up.
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File Type: jpg 136-1.JPG (87.7 KB, 23 views)
File Type: jpg 141-1.JPG (87.0 KB, 23 views)

1967 Mustang Coupe.
"It's not a problem it's a project"
My Build Thread: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...967-build.html


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post #19 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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Now that toe board is in place, time to start on the floor pan. I only needed to replace the drivers floor pan. The passenger floor pan basically had 3 smaller spots of rust. I need to take some pictures of the passenger side patches and I will get them posted.

I was very nervous about doing the floor pan. All those angles and cuts, the curved area in the back. Well it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. I took my time getting it lined up, marked it larger than what I needed and cut away pieces a tiny bit at a time before it all fit. Laid it in place and marked where all the plug welds were going to be. Once I had the holes drilled I was ready to start welding it in place. I did a few plug welds along the rocker panel to hold it in place, and had screws holding it down to the floor support. Once it was tacked in I started the butt welding along the transmission tunnel. Here is where you need to take your time and don't hurry. Just jump around from end to end to keep the heat down until you get a solid line of welds.

I hit the tops of the welds with my grinder just to get them down and manageable. After that I took my bandfile belt sander to knock them down the rest of way.

The floor pan cut out and sprayed with weld-thru primer. All of the holes drilled and etch primer applied, ready to weld in. And finally the finished product.
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File Type: jpg 144-1.JPG (85.2 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg 142-1.JPG (84.3 KB, 24 views)
File Type: jpg 159-1.JPG (90.7 KB, 28 views)

1967 Mustang Coupe.
"It's not a problem it's a project"
My Build Thread: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...967-build.html


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post #20 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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On to the passenger floor pan. There was rust through on the very front edge of the floor pan that went through into the toe board. So I cut out the rust and kept the floor pan cut larger than the the toe board so I could weld them both in. You can see that in the picture below. I didn't get a picture of the bottom patch but it looks a lot like the upper patch only smaller!!
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File Type: jpg 166-1.JPG (86.1 KB, 18 views)
File Type: jpg 181-1.JPG (86.6 KB, 18 views)

1967 Mustang Coupe.
"It's not a problem it's a project"
My Build Thread: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...967-build.html


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post #21 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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The other rust spot was on the rear floor pan, over the rear torque box. I ordered the patch and cut it down to fit. Interestingly this area is where I experienced my issue with shrinkage. As I started to tack in the patch starting in the upper right corner it pulled the entire patch CCW and up. To fix it cut out some of the welds, realigned the patch, screwed it down with self tapping sheet metal screws. Once it was held in tight I tacked in each corner to help keep it in place. Kinda ugly but it's in place and will be covered by carpet!!
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File Type: jpg 20170218_121306-1.jpg (57.4 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg 20170222_100933-1.jpg (22.5 KB, 17 views)

1967 Mustang Coupe.
"It's not a problem it's a project"
My Build Thread: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...967-build.html


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post #22 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 09:14 PM
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Nice work, at least one red 67 is having some work done. Hope this inspires a certain Cajun.
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post #23 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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Time to move on to the trunk drop downs, outer wheelhouse and quarter panels. I got lucky I guess in that only the outer wheelhouses are rusty around the lips. I purchased complete outer wheelhouses and cut it down to fit. I did that because, as I looked at trying to remove the outer wheelhouse the more I realized I wasn't going to go through that. Props to you guys who remove the outer piece. I didn't much like having to patch just the outside lip, I just couldn't bring myself to try and remove all of those spot welds. Some of which would be a pain to get too.

The first step was to determine where the rust ended and the good metal began. Once I figured that out I started marking where I wanted to cut. I use blue painters tape to mark my cuts, which helps me cut a more straight line.

Below we have the outer lip cutout, the patch cut and clamped in place ready to weld in and the final product.
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File Type: jpg DSCN0219-1.JPG (84.6 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN0220-1.JPG (84.5 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN0226-1.JPG (85.7 KB, 20 views)

1967 Mustang Coupe.
"It's not a problem it's a project"
My Build Thread: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...967-build.html


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post #24 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caper50 View Post
Nice work, at least one red 67 is having some work done. Hope this inspires a certain Cajun.
Thanks Caper! I think I might know of that certain Cajun you're referring too. I figure if I can do this so can he.
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post #25 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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I don't have any pictures of the trunk drop down in place. So the 2 pictures below are where I cut out the rusted piece and etch primered new piece. I'll see about updating this portion with a picture of the drop down in place. I need to remove the quarter panel to get a picture of it. It will need to come off anyways because I just getting it fitted.
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File Type: jpg DSCN0224-1.JPG (82.6 KB, 16 views)

1967 Mustang Coupe.
"It's not a problem it's a project"
My Build Thread: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...967-build.html


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post #26 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
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With the drop down and outer wheelhouse done time to move on to the quarter panel itself. I have a rear valance being delivered tomorrow and with that I can do the final fitting of the quarter before doing the final cut. I'm nervous and confident all at the same time about the cut. I have gotten some fantastic help from VMF members about how to go about the cut. That's where the confidence comes in. But I am still nervous about screwing it up. Which is a good thing because it will force me to take my time and do my best to get it right.

I don't any pictures of the old quarter panel being cut out but again I will get one taken before I actually tack in the panel.

Here is quarter being fit into place. It's only clamped in a few places and not in it's final position yet but it's close. It's looks further off than it really is in the picture with the door closed.

You might find this part kind of funny. But being that this is my first time at any kind of body work, I started on the passenger side so that if were off I wouldn't have to look at it every time I got in the car.

Once this side is finished I will still have the drivers side to do. With what I learned I think it will go a little easier and faster.

So up to this point I have had the car 19 months. I am not as far along as I had hoped, mostly because of other projects that came up. With all that I am not discourage by where I am. I still have a loooong ways to go with this build. That's ok too. I have the car built in my head and I know what the final product should look like. So it's taking the larger project and breaking it down into smaller chunks to keep it manageable. My smaller chunks consist of the outer wheelhouse, then the trunk drop down and finally the quarter panel. It helps me getting those smaller wins along the way to mark my progress, instead of saying "the body work is a chunk" and getting discouraged by how much is left to do.
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File Type: jpg 20170305_145734-1.jpg (27.0 KB, 24 views)

1967 Mustang Coupe.
"It's not a problem it's a project"
My Build Thread: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...967-build.html



Last edited by rgoniea; 05-17-2017 at 10:15 PM.
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post #27 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caper50 View Post
Nice work, at least one red 67 is having some work done. Hope this inspires a certain Cajun.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rgoniea View Post
Thanks Caper! I think I might know of that certain Cajun you're referring too. I figure if I can do this so can he.

A friend gave me some scrap pieces, so after picking up a new 025 spool I'll be hitting it again; we'll see.

Wife,........."You drove how far for that thing?"
Daughter,..."Theres no inside and it stinks."
Friend,......."Dude, thats a rusted piece of sheet."
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post #28 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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A friend gave me some scrap pieces, so after picking up a new 025 spool I'll be hitting it again; we'll see.
Something that I learned, at least with my stuff, is if you're butt welding and using the butt weld clamps the gap is too big without blowing holes. When I first started testing with my scrap pieces using the clamps I would blow holes through the metal but if just clamped the metal down and closer together it was much easier for me. I know that's mostly because of my welding skills or lack thereof but it might help to start a little closer than the clamps allow for.

1967 Mustang Coupe.
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post #29 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by rgoniea View Post
Something that I learned, at least with my stuff, is if you're butt welding and using the butt weld clamps the gap is too big without blowing holes. When I first started testing with my scrap pieces using the clamps I would blow holes through the metal but if just clamped the metal down and closer together it was much easier for me. I know that's mostly because of my welding skills or lack thereof but it might help to start a little closer than the clamps allow for.

Funny you bring that up, I was wondering if a magnetic copper backing, 12" long or so would help when tacking skins.

Wife,........."You drove how far for that thing?"
Daughter,..."Theres no inside and it stinks."
Friend,......."Dude, thats a rusted piece of sheet."
Son,.........."This old car is cool."

USMC Security Forces, Kamiseya Japan, 0311

Build Thread: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vi...sted-pile.html
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post #30 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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Funny you bring that up, I was wondering if a magnetic copper backing, 12" long or so would help when tacking skins.
I flattened a piece of 1/2" copper pipe and used it for a backing piece. I had my daughter helping me by holding the pipe on the backside while I was welding. I honestly can't tell you if it helped or not. I can tell you that I have done probably 99% more welding without the copper backing. When I patched the outer wheelhouse it was all done without the backing. Most if not all of the floor pan was done without the backing.

Remember what ever you use for the backing it will need to be flat on both pieces at the weld site or it will still blow through (ask me how I know). If you have a piece of copper pipe laying around, try it with and without on your scrap pieces. Also keep in mind that there will be places that you won't be able to reach with the backing. So try to keep a small gap between your pieces especially in the places where you won't be able to reach.
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1967 Mustang Coupe.
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My Build Thread: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/bu...967-build.html


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