1969 Shelby GT350 Hertz - Page 3 - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #31 of 201 (permalink) Old 01-02-2016, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 69GT350H View Post
I thought about doing the home phosphate thing, but its still mostly bare metal and they say you need to keep them oiled or they will rust again.

Being in Florida with the high humidity, and that I want to drive the car, I have opted to paint. For the darker items like the hood hinges, I used Rust-Oleum's Flat Soft Iron. It goes on with a bit if gloss and sparkle, but when it dries it has a nice flat dark metal look.

For yours, decide what you want to do with the car and then plan accordingly.

Great! Thanks much for that information.

I plan to drive my car. While the humidity is low in Colorado, I just might go with paint. No hurry either way, so I'll think about it.

Currently working on a 1970 Mach 1 project. See it here: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vi...ode-build.html
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post #32 of 201 (permalink) Old 01-02-2016, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Klutch View Post
If you could please use links to online photos instead of thumbnails, it would help everyone to better enjoy your build thread.
Klutch, my preference is 180 exactly the opposite from yours.
I hate when people post oversized images in the forum using
external hosts. I much prefer a small thumbnail I can click
to enlarge.

First, giant pics (which should have been resized before
uploading) cause the forum pages to load slowly. Second, the
forum software never quite handles the oversize images
correctly. The pages become too wide, the text in each post
doesn't wrap cleanly, and posts become a huge pain to read.
Third, the external host eventually deletes the photos. From
then on, we see a thumbnail photo of a stupid meowing kitten
rather than an image which explains the interesting topic
being discussed. Argh!

(In progress #1: "Heat Miser")
1966 convertible restomod, 331 stroker, T-5z, disks,
8.8" rear via AJE, manual rack w/ EPAS,
Candy Red

(In progress #2: "Cold Miser")
1968 fastback restomod, Coyote, T-56, disks,
full conv. floor, R&C front susp, 9" rear,
manual rack / EPAS,
Midnight Blue Metallic
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post #33 of 201 (permalink) Old 01-10-2016, 12:41 AM Thread Starter
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Fractured a toe so I have to do light stuff for a bit. Worked on my A/C - Heater plenum. Used JB weld to fix a few cracks, blasted and painted the metal inside. Installed a new seal kit. Then a new A/C core, the old one had rusted/corroded to the hose fittings so bad the fittings were shot and I had to cut them off. I could have had new ones put on, but I did not want to risk that 46 year old core leaking any time soon. Same with the heater core. I went Aluminum there, better heat transfer. No worries about the water corroding it as I will be using Evans Waterless Cooling. Still have to test the vacuum modulators and scrub it down.
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1969 Shelby GT350 Hertz rebuild Gallery
Delivered to Ball Ford in Miami Florida, purchased by Hertz Rent A Car for delivery to Miami Internation Airport
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post #34 of 201 (permalink) Old 01-10-2016, 01:23 AM Thread Starter
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And before I call it a night, here is my new repo inner door panel. I got this maybe 20 years ago, you have to add all your own trim. I'm going with as much from the original panels as I can. It has a hard grey plastic backing. The front is not as soft as the originals are, but mine are so old they are brittle and crack when they are pushed on. Still have to order the felt trim for the top.
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1969 Shelby GT350 Hertz rebuild Gallery
Delivered to Ball Ford in Miami Florida, purchased by Hertz Rent A Car for delivery to Miami Internation Airport
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post #35 of 201 (permalink) Old 01-10-2016, 10:54 AM
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Fractured a toe so I have to do light stuff for a bit. Worked on my A/C - Heater plenum. Used JB weld to fix a few cracks, blasted and painted the metal inside. Installed a new seal kit. Then a new A/C core, the old one had rusted/corroded to the hose fittings so bad the fittings were shot and I had to cut them off. I could have had new ones put on, but I did not want to risk that 46 year old core leaking any time soon. Same with the heater core. I went Aluminum there, better heat transfer. No worries about the water corroding it as I will be using Evans Waterless Cooling. Still have to test the vacuum modulators and scrub it down.

Very nice! I'm pretty sure you should shoot clear coat on the box if you want it to look factory.

Currently working on a 1970 Mach 1 project. See it here: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vi...ode-build.html
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post #36 of 201 (permalink) Old 01-10-2016, 10:55 AM
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And before I call it a night, here is my new repo inner door panel. I got this maybe 20 years ago, you have to add all your own trim. I'm going with as much from the original panels as I can. It has a hard grey plastic backing. The front is not as soft as the originals are, but mine are so old they are brittle and crack when they are pushed on. Still have to order the felt trim for the top.

Now that's spiffy! Boy, I sure with I had new door panels waiting for me.

Currently working on a 1970 Mach 1 project. See it here: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vi...ode-build.html
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post #37 of 201 (permalink) Old 01-10-2016, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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Very nice! I'm pretty sure you should shoot clear coat on the box if you want it to look factory.
Thanks, its mostly an item you will never see unless you get on the floor and look up. Did the factory clear coat the epoxy/resin boxes?

David

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post #38 of 201 (permalink) Old 01-10-2016, 01:26 PM
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I not sure if you are a SAAC member. At this years convention at the Mid-Ohio race track (it's north of Columbus near Mansfield) there will be a special presentation of all years of Hertz cars.
The Official SAAC Forum - Index

Roddster
67 GT 350: MCA & SAAC Gold winner
67 S code GTA coupe
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post #39 of 201 (permalink) Old 01-10-2016, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
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I not sure if you are a SAAC member. At this years convention at the Mid-Ohio race track (it's north of Columbus near Mansfield) there will be a special presentation of all years of Hertz cars.
The Official SAAC Forum - Index
I used to be a SAAC member, but quit. I found the SAAC forum admin takes possession of all content posted on the forum. When I asked that he remove all my uploaded photos he refused. I then asked that he delete my account and he refused. Said I needed a good reason so I told him the version of Simple Machine Forum he is using has a security flaw, a back door that allows someone admin access. He banned me stating I was making a threat. I made a complaint to SAAC, but they say the forum is not theirs, its run by a private entity. So, with out being able to communicate and interact with the other SAAC members, what good is it to be a SAAC member? Just to belong to a club and read the news they post on saac.com? I'm in it for more than that. I went to SAAC 16 and had a blast. But I have, and am sure I can continue to enjoy my hobby with out going to another SAAC convention. Maybe MCA will have me?

David

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post #40 of 201 (permalink) Old 01-10-2016, 02:06 PM
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Thanks, its mostly an item you will never see unless you get on the floor and look up. Did the factory clear coat the epoxy/resin boxes?

David
I don't know. I've seen only the fiberglass boxes like you have pictured. Mine is the same.

Currently working on a 1970 Mach 1 project. See it here: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vi...ode-build.html
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post #41 of 201 (permalink) Old 01-10-2016, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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I don't know. I've seen only the fiberglass boxes like you have pictured. Mine is the same.
There is actually very little fiberglass in it. Another reason it cracks and breaks so easily.

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post #42 of 201 (permalink) Old 01-27-2016, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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The car's body was away, and I had finished the FMX transmission. So on with the engine. I was already .030 over when it was in the 69 GT, and now one of the piston walls had rusted from the water intrusion. Got lucky and they were able to bore the 351w to .060 over. The journals on the crank had rusted now that it was out of the block, so it was now going to need to be sent out to be polished. Looking everything over, I had previously inspected the engine and knew the path, so I went with a stroker kit and got a new crank, rods, pistons and rings to go with the Comp Cams Magnum 280 cam that I had just installed in the engine before the storm. Obviously, this is no longer going to be a stock build. Hence the reason for the stall converter. I purchased an ARP bolt kit and started building the block. I was installing the Pete Jackson gear drive and found they want me to grind on the timing chain cover for clearance and that is where I stopped while I waited for a replacement cover so I would not cut up on the original one.
Things are a little slow for me right now, so let me go into some of the details. I know not everyone will agree with how I am building the motor. So let me start off by saying that my primary goal is to be able to pop the hood and have a very stock, factory looking 351W sitting where its suppose to be sitting. Primary use is weekend crusing/showing off with occasional track runs and sitting weekends at judged car shows (no way meant to be Concourse). Intend to trailer to events over 100 miles from home.

It's a factory 1969 351w block, .060 over
Factory Aluminum Shelby dual plane intake
Holley HP 4150 vac secondary 750cfm carb
Eagle Street/Strip stroker rotating Assembly:{Kit}
{}414 ci @ 9.4:1 compression
{}.060 bore x 4.0 stroke
{}Hypereutectic Aluminum D dish piston w floating pins
{}Plasmamoly rings
{}Cast Steel crank, 28oz balanced
{}Forged Steel 5140 I-Beam rods
Comp Cams Magnum 280H Cam: {Kit}
{}Gross Valve Lift .512
{}Duration @ .006 Tappit Lift 280/280
{}Duration @ .050 230/230
{}Lobe Lift .3200
{}Lobe Separation 110
{}Valve Springs 972-16 included in kit
{}Comp Cam roller tip 1.6:1 rockers
Stock Cast 351w heads port matched both intake and exhaust, egr bumps removed, stock valves
JBA Shortys Titanium Ceramic 1 5/8" primary to 2.5" flange
JBA H Pipe, 2.5"
Aluminized factory style exhaust w/dual resonators, single transverse muffler all in 2.25"
Pertronix Ignitor III MSD ignition inside the stock distributor
Pertronix Flame Thrower II 45kv oil filled coil

FMX trans, fully rebuilt with new frictions, steels and bands. B&M Trans kit.
TCI 2300 Stall converter

Stock Ford 9" 3.0 28 spline Traction Lock.
For driving it will be on 15x9" CenterLine Drage Lite rims w/ Nitto NT555R 275/50R tires (25.75" diameter, 11.18" width), 15x5.5 on the front.

For shows I have the original 5 spoke Shelby rims with the 15" Polyglass tires.

So for trying to keep this appearing stock (from a show view), about the only thing I can think of is a gear change, just hate to mess with the stock setup. Maybe one of tj1141's 3.50 pumpkins is in my future?

What do you all think?

1969 Shelby GT350 Hertz rebuild Gallery
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Last edited by 69GT350H; 01-27-2016 at 07:31 PM. Reason: Marked items in the {kit}
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post #43 of 201 (permalink) Old 01-27-2016, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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I'd also go for the larger valves, but back in the early 80's had the hardned valve seats put in before the valve job was done. Is it possible to put in and cut for 1.94-inch intake and a 1.6-inch exhaust with out putting in new seats?

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post #44 of 201 (permalink) Old 01-27-2016, 07:25 PM
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I ran that cam in my 289HP back in the 80's. With all of those cubes and 3.00 gears, you won't miss the power the 414ci would make with more cam. Also, with stockish heads - it would not matter anyway.


Sounds like a great car!
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post #45 of 201 (permalink) Old 02-06-2016, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
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I've been working on a lot of smaller items like cleaning bolts and other smaller body parts, working on the instrument cluster, etc. But I did get out to the car last week and installed a few of the parts. Here is before I had installed the shock tower aprons on, got them and the upper shock supports cleaned and painted. Could not find all the bolts so had to wait for my NPD order to put them on.

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