Dan's 65 Fastback - RestoMod build - Page 7 - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #91 of 146 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 11:09 PM
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If you could get the part number it would be much appreciated. I've got coil-over with my Heidts kit but they're too long and yours look like they might be shorter.

Clint

1995 GT Convertible - Laser Red - 331 stroker, Kenne Bell 2.2 - 415 RWHP 396 RWTQ
2002 Corvette Z06 - 410 RWHP 410 RWTQ
1968 Mustang Fastback .... Rustbucket slowly being reborn
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post #92 of 146 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
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Blue Blood...did the numbers I PM'd you help?

Got some good work done on my car this weekend.

Been waiting for my radiator to come back from a friend's shop (getting brackets welded to it), so I figured I would make sure all the trim panels fit. Since so much sheet metal was replaced, I didn't expect it to go in perfect...and I was right.

I documented the issues in more detail here:
Trim Panel Fitting..or not fitting is more like it.

Here are some of the fit issues I had when I started:

Rear driver side gap


Rear Passenger side was overlapping



After some tweaks to the panels and brackets, I was able to get them to fit better.




This is one of those things that you don't expect to take so long and really slows down the progress. I probably have about 10 hours of work to get them to fit and am doing some modifications to one panel to close up a gap that I can't get closed. The gap is in the upper corner piece - driver side - (which has a smooth finish), so I should be able to fill the gap with some fiberglass & filler and you'll never be able to tell it was modified.

I'm also missing one piece of molding that goes between the upper & lower panels (and they aren't available new...so I have to hunt one down on ebay) and need the 2 pieces that go along the roof (but at least those are available).

Should have the radiator back tonight, so once that's mocked up, I will probably start getting the engine together so I can drop that in and check for fit issues.

Dan
Chapel Hill, NC
***PM me if you're close by and can lend a hand with my 65 Fastback project***
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post #93 of 146 (permalink) Old 03-16-2017, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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Got my radiator back from getting brackets welded to it.



I won't be able to use a standard sized battery in the stock location...so I'm thinking about using a Braille battery (or similar sized one) and making up my own battery tray. I measured and it should fit in the stock battery tray location.

**Has anyone run a Braille battery in their Mustang? I looked up the specs on the battery and it looks like it will work. Here's one of their batteries.
Braille Battery B3121: Advanced AGM Lightweight Racing Battery 21 lbs | JEGS




I'll need to trim a bit of metal to get the radiator cap on & off...but I will wait until I mock up the A/C condenser just in case I wind up moving the radiator back a bit for clearance.



I need to add a bit of sheet metal to the top of the radiator opening so I don't have a gap at the top of the radiator. I've already got the sheet metal to use, so I'll get that in soon.

Dan
Chapel Hill, NC
***PM me if you're close by and can lend a hand with my 65 Fastback project***
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post #94 of 146 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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My welding continues to improve. Learning new skills has been the best part of this project.

Added about 1" to the top of the radiator opening today.
Still need to clean up the engine bay side, but the opening fits the radiator better now.




Dan
Chapel Hill, NC
***PM me if you're close by and can lend a hand with my 65 Fastback project***
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post #95 of 146 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 12:16 AM
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Looking good. Need to hollar at you sometime. I sold my biz so doing the car thing full time.
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post #96 of 146 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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Started fitting the rear valance using tips I found in Chaser's 66 RestoMod build thread.

Cut the ends off and tacked them to the quarters.
Welded some tabs to hold the panel to the end piece.


Filling the gap with enough sheet metal for it to hold it's shape.


Once I get the other side done, I'll take it off and remove the tabs...then fill in the rest and fix the spots where I blew through. I'll be able to use a copper sheet for a backer to make filling in the gaps easier.

I'm still thinking I may weld it to the car. I like the cleaner look and I won't have to worry about welding the brackets back in place to hold it to the car.

Dan
Chapel Hill, NC
***PM me if you're close by and can lend a hand with my 65 Fastback project***

Last edited by Dan Babb; 03-19-2017 at 05:23 PM.
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post #97 of 146 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 05:31 PM
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Harbor fright has the copper welding spoons for cheap. I bought a couple of them and cut one down to fit into tight areas. I don't think I've ever seen copper this cheap.
http://harborfreight.com/catalogsear...+welding+spoon

John

Dynacorn 67 fastback. Dart 363, Close ratio Magnum 6 speed, 3.70 Eaton Truetrac in a fabricated full floater 9", SorT coil over suspension. Still in pieces.
'14 SHO with most all the bells and whistles. Stock for now.
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post #98 of 146 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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I have a sheet of copper left over from a roof repair at my last house. I've been cutting pieces of that off and folding it over on itself to make up a backing piece. It's free and I've been able to cut pieces to fit the job.

I was looking at the magnetic backer that Eastwood sells, but have been able to use magnets I have to hold my copper sheets in place so far.
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Chapel Hill, NC
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post #99 of 146 (permalink) Old 03-22-2017, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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Finished the rear valence for now.





There are some low spots where the metal patch didn't sit flush, but those will level out with some 'all metal' filler I have.

I'm doing to test fit the gas tank just to see what kind of clearance there is between the tank and the rear valence. I'm now leaning hard toward welding this piece to the car.

If I do weld it to the car, what spray can product would you use on the backside of the valance and the rear area it covers to help protect the metal for many years?

Dan
Chapel Hill, NC
***PM me if you're close by and can lend a hand with my 65 Fastback project***
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post #100 of 146 (permalink) Old 03-23-2017, 09:17 AM
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Did the exact same thing to my rear valence. Looks great!

Watch the progress on my 66 coupe here,
http://photobucket.com/projecttetanus
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post #101 of 146 (permalink) Old 03-29-2017, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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My uncle is coming to town so we can go to the Charlotte Auto Fair and is going to help me get my engine/trans together and in the car to make sure everything fits.

Was getting my adjustable motor mounts together and one freaking bolt hits my power steering rack lines. This sucks!



And it still needs to go in a bit more.


I don't think I have enough room to shorten the bolt and still have it stick out past the nyloc nut...will check that out just to be sure before I drop the rack.

Dan
Chapel Hill, NC
***PM me if you're close by and can lend a hand with my 65 Fastback project***
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post #102 of 146 (permalink) Old 03-29-2017, 11:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Babb View Post
My uncle is coming to town so we can go to the Charlotte Auto Fair and is going to help me get my engine/trans together and in the car to make sure everything fits.

Was getting my adjustable motor mounts together and one freaking bolt hits my power steering rack lines. This sucks!



And it still needs to go in a bit more.


I don't think I have enough room to shorten the bolt and still have it stick out past the nyloc nut...will check that out just to be sure before I drop the rack.
Can you install that bolt from the other side by temporarily moving the PS lines?

Rusty

1965 Coupe, Caspian blue, A code 4 speed. Started project fall 1993, hopefully back on the road Spring 2017!
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post #103 of 146 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
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Last night when I was looking at it, I didn't think so....but now looking at the picture, I believe I can remove both lines a lot faster than dropping the whole rack. I'll check that out later today.

Thanks for the suggestion...sometimes, an extra set of eyes on a problem is a big help.

Dan
Chapel Hill, NC
***PM me if you're close by and can lend a hand with my 65 Fastback project***
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post #104 of 146 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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Lines came off easy enough.

I didn't want to over-tighten them, but I snugged them down very good. Hope it doesn't leak once the car is running...will be a bitch to get in there and tighten them up again.

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Dan
Chapel Hill, NC
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post #105 of 146 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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Spent the day making this fit.


I covered the issues I had with the trim panels in this thread:
Trim Panel Fitting..or not fitting is more like it.

Because I had to use spacers to push the bottoms of the rear panels out, the delete panel needed to be trimmed to fit. After putting this thing in & out through the rear window opening about 10 times, I got it pretty close.



I still have some minor trimming to do so it will sit flat, but I'm almost there.

I will probably use some type of edge trim to cover the spots where the bottom meets the side panels (or might use some fiberglass reinforced filler to clean up the edges). Will decide that soon.

Dan
Chapel Hill, NC
***PM me if you're close by and can lend a hand with my 65 Fastback project***
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