Thunder revisited - 67 Pro-touring fastback - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #16 of 44 (permalink) Old 08-05-2016, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huntingky View Post
I will check the Compustar out myself. The problem with LoJack is that their coverage area is pretty limited. They don't even have service here in Kentucky.

Did my own mini-tubs because I want to use original interior. If I was to do it over again though I might look at Mustangs to Fear tubs. They are supposed to fit without screwing up your interior.
Congrats on doing your own mini tubs.

When I did mine, I moved them in 1.25" which allowed me to keep the fold down seat mechanism and trim panels stock, with only a small mod to the fold down seat side catches.

Stretching the rear quarters was altogether a different thing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanSterling966 View Post
Such a beautiful car. Honestly it was seeing a picture of your car a few years ago that made me decide it was time to stop putting it off and find a fastback to build. In the car culture dictionary if you look up "perfect stance" I am pretty sure a picture of your car will be there.

Looking forward to following along.
Thanks very much for the kind words Ryan. Like you I was inspired by a number of members here too.

I looked at your build thread and love what you've done. I especially like the rear valance mods (something I thought about lately) and the console and tablet incorporation are very innovative.
You've got a beautiful car!

--

On the build front, the machine shop called. The flywheel was good, pressure plate was badly out of balance. Machining should be done by mid next week.


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post #17 of 44 (permalink) Old 08-05-2016, 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by ripped View Post
Thanks.

I am not sure if the compustar is better. I used it from wiring comparability with the earlier computer alarm in my car.

Yeah there are some threads many years old. I'll try and post some pics when I get back from holiday and have net access. The stock interior has been maintained as well.
What size tires do you have in the rear?

'65 Mustang Coupe A-code
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post #18 of 44 (permalink) Old 08-06-2016, 09:45 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Raul-7 View Post
What size tires do you have in the rear?
They are 315/35/17

I might be able to go a little bigger if I went to Street or Track 3- link or A TCP system , but the leaf springs on the inside are the limiting factor, right now.
I have 1.5"+ clearance on the outside fender lip, and 2"+ on the inside. They've never rubbed.

When I was mocking it up, a friend gave me a 335 to use for fitment purposes, but I could not stretch the rear quarters that much without making it look obvious.


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post #19 of 44 (permalink) Old 08-09-2016, 01:21 AM Thread Starter
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Since there was a few questions on this, I thought I'd dig up some old photos.

The minitub process represented about six+ months work.
The inner minitub was easy.
Stretching the rear quarters, reshrinking the metal a few weeks

Blocking the quarter panels took ages, but was well worth the time.
Each step involved checking the progress. It involved setting up some halogen lights on an angle, then sheening the quarter with a spray of lightly soapy water, to make the quarter panel shiny.

There are a few important body lines on the quarter panel. The top ridge, is most important. Next the scallop where the scoop sits. Then the fender lip region. Then there is an additional line at the back of the rear quarter, where if you look closely, you can see a strip of masking tape. This technique was used everywhere on the car to sharpen all the body lines.
Then of course matching the fender extensions to the quarter panel, bumper and valance.

1st two pics are before pics

In the one photo, you can see there is about 15" from the inner wheel well to the outer lip.

I got a test 11x17" mustang rim, from a local tire company, to mockup for fitment and backspacing.

Brings back bodywork nightmares
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post #20 of 44 (permalink) Old 08-12-2016, 01:48 AM Thread Starter
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When I took the transmission out, the pilot bushing had fallen out.
I thought that was the source of my transmission vibration.

I decided to have the flywheel and pressure plate balanced.
The flywheel was fine.

The pressure plate was surprisingly almost 1/2 lb out of balance.

I decided after entertaining a few craigslist people who were undecided, that I would put the 5 speed back in.

I changed the trans oil, with royal purple synchromax. and installed it tonight.

Wow what a huge difference. It's like a completely different car.

So I am going to drive it like this for a while, I think before doing the 6 speed swap, and see what it's like.

I have to top up the fluid and adjust the position of the starter. It seems to be a bit noisy. Not sure why.
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post #21 of 44 (permalink) Old 08-13-2016, 04:02 AM
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What pain code is that? Your car is an inspiration; not overdone - a perfect restomod/protouring car.

So you stretched the quarters, rolled the fender lips and did a minitub?

Did you ever think of using a MII front end? What motor are you using?

'65 Mustang Coupe A-code

Last edited by Raul-7; 08-13-2016 at 04:05 AM.
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post #22 of 44 (permalink) Old 08-13-2016, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raul-7 View Post
What pain code is that? Your car is an inspiration; not overdone - a perfect restomod/protouring car.

So you stretched the quarters, rolled the fender lips and did a minitub?

Did you ever think of using a MII front end? What motor are you using?
The paint is a Lamborghini colour blue.
This colour has a tiny bit of colour changing properties to it. Not like the ford sonic blue, a little more subtle.

I actually have seen some really nice new colours on newer cars that I like also.

I shot the trunk in three colours before deciding... well to be truthful my wife and daughter picked the colours. I was going to go triple black but I had to cater to their wishes. They wanted blue with chrome wheels. It was the trade off for all the late nights working on the car.


I also did some tricky things to the front fenders, and had the front wheels machined, so I could go wider there.

The engine is an all aluminum (pond block) 487 cu FE
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post #23 of 44 (permalink) Old 08-22-2016, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
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Now that everything is back on track and the car is running great, I have another project; to make it quieter.

With the larger engine (8L) goes a larger exhaust. I ordered the mufflers, which should be here in a week or so, and will mock up the system before ordering pipes.


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post #24 of 44 (permalink) Old 08-27-2016, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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Last night the clutch master cylinder pushrod snapped. I had a spare on hand because I had been finding the wilwood clutch and slave set up, tend to blow through seals every 1.5 years.

I haven't changed the m/c for about 3 years, so I will use that parts fail as a reminder to change out the clutch and slave cylinder each year in the off season.

The mufflers arrived. Each one looks to be very well made and each has it's own remote control key fob.
Hoping to have the muffler system redesigned in a couple months
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post #25 of 44 (permalink) Old 08-31-2016, 09:21 AM
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Who makes those mufflers?
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post #26 of 44 (permalink) Old 09-10-2016, 01:39 AM Thread Starter
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Varex


This weekend I am going to pick up my 3" pipes and accessories, hopefully do a mock up during the week


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post #27 of 44 (permalink) Old 09-12-2016, 12:08 AM Thread Starter
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As I revisit everything on the 'stang, I felt the steering was a little loose lately.

I jacked it up and checked the front suspension.

Upper balljoints on both sides need replacing, and the bumpsteer tie rod ends.

It felt kind of like the lower ball joint was a little worn on the passenger side, so;

I ordered uppers/lowers and the bumpsteer kit.


Also I noticed a few posts on suspension issues, so I thought I would post up a few photos on bumpsteer, an mapping toe change.









Simple (and it took two days to do this) way is to unhook the sway bar, and remove the coil spring from the side that you are checking.

Set the car up on a level surface

Swing the suspension through the arc of travel

At each interval, map the toe change.

Add a shim to the bumpsteer end

Repeat

You are looking for the shim that gives you closest to zero toe change

I had a laser set up to more easily read the measurement, as well as a long straight edge, effectively making the smaller toe changes easier to see.

Once one side is done, switch to the other.

---

Once I get the suspension parts here, I can post up some photos on how to do the balljoints change and bumpsteer, wheel alignment etc. If someone is interested.


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post #28 of 44 (permalink) Old 09-16-2016, 01:41 AM Thread Starter
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Started working on the exhaust. I demoed the old system yesterday.

I made some wood supports for the mufflers, which will be the key area to locate.

Next once I am happy with the mufflers, it will be the tailpipes.

I have a flex coupling that I want to locate inline, to reduce transmitted vibration through the exhaust. Because the car is quite lowered, I have to locate it a little higher up under the car somewhere. I don't know where that is yet
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post #29 of 44 (permalink) Old 09-16-2016, 09:07 AM
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great build man.
car looks excellent.
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post #30 of 44 (permalink) Old 09-17-2016, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warthogdriver77
great build man.
car looks excellent.
Thanks!

--

A little more work (a lot) on the drivers side tailpipe. That's the tightest area, so I thought I'd get it over with first.

I think I have the pipes close to mocked up where I need them. I had to enlarge the chrome trim ring a little for the larger tailpipes.
So decent progress. I need to plan for hangers and do a bit more clearancing before doing my welds.

The new welder is great, though. Lots of power. Now I have to work on my welding skills
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