CrashDown's 65 Coupe Resto Mod..... - Page 3 - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #31 of 104 (permalink) Old 07-23-2016, 02:27 AM Thread Starter
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Quick Question for the guys why have done front torque boxes on their cars.....

Does the upper of the Torque box physically touch the toe panel? Or is there a substantial gap?


Pic for clarification....

Does that silver surface butt right up against, or even touch the back side of the toe board?
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post #32 of 104 (permalink) Old 07-23-2016, 07:45 AM
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Every thing touches with proper application of a big hammer. Seriously, mine were close but not quite there. As they are built of a heavy metal and the top and bottom edges are double layer where the two halves were pinch welded, they are very tough to bend. I had to some serious hammering on both sides an on one side, finally just had to bridge the gap with a series of heavy stitch welds.
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post #33 of 104 (permalink) Old 07-23-2016, 07:54 PM
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I got the 1 piece.

A little background on me. I do R&D research into designing repair procedures for a Small Luxury Car Manufacturer. So you total your car, the bodyshop that fixes the damage uses my repair process to fix it.

With that in mind, and some help from out Sika and Fusor reps, Im going to takle installing these as 1 piece like I would if it were going onto one of our cars that I see at work. I'll document everything here, but hint, next generation Structural/Crash resistant adhesives and Structural fasteners are going to be used to supplement the welding that will need to be done.
Not saying it can't be done as 1 piece ,easier for sure if the floors are out. Good luck I'll be waiting for your install pics.

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post #34 of 104 (permalink) Old 07-23-2016, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrashDown View Post
Quick Question for the guys why have done front torque boxes on their cars.....

Does the upper of the Torque box physically touch the toe panel? Or is there a substantial gap?


Pic for clarification....

Does that silver surface butt right up against, or even touch the back side of the toe board?
it's supposed too

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post #35 of 104 (permalink) Old 07-23-2016, 10:18 PM
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"hey John, Wish it was MY shop, but thats my work stall in our R&D shop at work. The Curtains were custom made, not sure by who, and that Fume extractor is installed by the Nederman corporation. They do Fume extraction and air/central vac for bodyshops."

Nice! Thanks. That screen looks great.
..John

Last edited by rcodenewf; 07-23-2016 at 10:24 PM.
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post #36 of 104 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
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Anyone done 67-68 cougar seat platforms on their 65-66 coupe?

I put the ProCar Lemans seats in my ride, but i want to lower the driving position 1" lower. Ive been reading that doing the cougar platforms are the way to go. NPD only has the RH side. I want to order them in the next day or so. Anyone buy them from c2cFabrications? https://www.c2cfabrication.com/produ...at-platform-lh
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post #37 of 104 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 06:08 PM
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So I have a set of 69-70 seat platforms that are supposed to weld right in and have a 1" drop for sale if you're interested. I just had mine cut because I wanted to be even lower.

'66 Coupe - Pro-touring in the making

289 4bbl
T-5Z
9" TrueTrac 3.70 gears
TCP suspension front and rear
18x8 Wheels and Baer 6P all four corners

And no more money left in my wallet...
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post #38 of 104 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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So I have a set of 69-70 seat platforms that are supposed to weld right in and have a 1" drop for sale if you're interested. I just had mine cut because I wanted to be even lower.
Yup... how much?
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post #39 of 104 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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I can PayPal ASAP
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post #40 of 104 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 08:43 PM
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I know you are in Disneyland ( thus rust is not a real consideration ), but you could use a better material, especially as a primer on the backside of a fender, than wash primer. I assume these are materials you are comfortable with, as we all tend to use. What are you applying over the wash?
post #41 of 104 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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I know you are in Disneyland ( thus rust is not a real consideration ), but you could use a better material, especially as a primer on the backside of a fender, than wash primer. I assume these are materials you are comfortable with, as we all tend to use. What are you applying over the wash?
The acid etch is just to keep the flash rust off. The back side of the fenders will get sanded and then coated in 3m Stone guard, and then painted satin black. All after seamsealer and paint of course.

just like the wash primer isnt doing a whole lot between applying it, then sanding most of it off, and then hitting with primer surfacer. it's just to prep the surface of them metal and act as an adhesion promoter for the surfacer.
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post #42 of 104 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 09:04 PM
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OK. If you sprayed epoxy it would protect as well, even better. But then when you wanted to do something else, all you need to do is scuff it and apply whatever you want next. Just trying to save some work and materials.
post #43 of 104 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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Yea I know man. Ive been doing this for years. issue with epoxy is, especially in fender wells and the like, which will get beat up by rocks, if you dont get every square inch of it sanded.... and I eman sanded, not scuffed, and then drive the car (and I mean drive, like daily, not just on weekends) whatever you put over it will lift. I know, Ive had to fix that stuff on other people work. But you use acid etch, a quick sand with 180 and anything you put on it is going to adhere. This car is going to get driven, daily, hence why Im going this route. plus, if you do a thorough enough job seam sealing and stone guarding, doesnt matter if you have wash primer or epoxy.

the benefit is the etch primer doesnt fill the 80grit scratches you put in the metal before etch priming. and then you go an put either more 80 grit scratches, or 180 grit into the primer, you have more then enough mechanical adhesion to do the job. Just need to be cautious of what primer surfacer you are using.
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post #44 of 104 (permalink) Old 07-28-2016, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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Just ordered a set of Global West Subframe Connectors. Just gotta save up for the Street use roll bar and Harness bar attachment.

Also gonna tackle the Torque boxes a different way. Im gonna split them in half and install like the 2 piece units. Thatw ay I can be sure I have good bond path adhesion to the toe boards and can get into some areas and do some welding that i wouldnt be able to with them as a 1 piece unit.
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post #45 of 104 (permalink) Old 07-28-2016, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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Got the right hand torque box separated




Will get the Left side separated today and get the outer skin of the fender sanded and primed with high build after work.

-Matt
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