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Old 09-24-2006, 01:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Promised some pictures to those interested in seeing the difference between blasted bare metal parts and phosphate. Did this hood safety latch for Matt P.:

bare metal, blasted in cabinet:



phospating, done with proper solution in heated pot:

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Old 09-24-2006, 01:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Charles - what do you rinse your parts with? I hate to use water, but using a solvent sometimes produces a chalky residue in places. I find I can dry, wipe with lacquer thinner, then spray with WD 40 and it comes out OK, but is there a better way? And are you using a purchased hot phosphating "kit" or just using OxiSolv or Ospho and heating it?
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Old 09-24-2006, 01:55 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I rinse with water, dry off the part and then spray it with wd or cosmoline. This is the recommended procedure.

I'm using the proper phosphate and oil solution sold by palmetto enterprises. In my opinion, this is the best way to duplicate phosphate/oil.
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Old 09-24-2006, 10:26 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I get very similar results without heating by extending the soak time.
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Old 09-25-2006, 08:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
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nice, is the same thing done for leafsprings?
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67 I6 coupe to be restored

Now finally painted.... Until I sand it down and try again.
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Old 09-25-2006, 09:15 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I got the following from Wikipedia
Quote:
Zinc phosphating results in a non-reflective, light- to medium-gray finish. Manganese phosphating produces a medium- to dark-gray or black finish. Iron phosphating produces a black or dark gray finish similar to manganese phosphating.
From the pictuers it looks like were talking about Manganese phosphating? Seems like the kits are widly avalible becouse of there use on firearms. Is there something special about Palmetto Enterprises product?
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Old 09-25-2006, 10:36 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I haven't seen the bottle with the solution in a while (need to order more!), but I believe it was zinc phosphate.
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Old 09-25-2006, 10:45 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Remembered I have an NOS safety catch:


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Old 09-26-2006, 09:28 AM   #9 (permalink)
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The solution should be zinc phosphate. If you are ordering a kit don't make the mistake of ordering black oxide with oil or you'll end up with pieces that are too dark or actually black. The choice of oils can influence the color of the finished product. In general the phosphate plating company's leave the oil application to the customer. Most restorers prefer very light oils like WD40.
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Old 09-26-2006, 10:33 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Cosmoline works far better than WD-40, but it is not as easily available! I had to buy a case of 12 airosol cans. Charles got lucky since I gave him a few of them.

Cosmoline also acts as a protectant to the metal.

Regards,
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Old 09-26-2006, 12:08 PM   #11 (permalink)
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So is the zinc phosphate solution available from Eastwood? Or where exactly would you find it?
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Old 09-26-2006, 12:33 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Don't know if Eastwood carries it.

Here's who I use:

Palmetto Enterprises
2311A Old Parker Road
Greenville, SC 29609-6438

864-246-3836
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Old 10-14-2006, 09:36 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Update: Palmetto (Vernon Owens) is retiring and currently selling his remaining inventory. If you are interested it would be prudent to get on it. He says he's getting out of the business and working on his own cars now. Quart bottle of concentrate for $27 plus $10 shipping. Very reasonable. BTW: he sells both the manganese phosphate for black, and the zinc phosphate for gray.

Pete: Do you have any more cosmoline? Could I buy a can from you?
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Old 10-15-2006, 09:30 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Oxisolve from Eastwood is what we use.
Understand from John Bednorz that Home Depot sells a concentrate also.
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Old 10-16-2006, 09:15 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Ospho. $13.00/gal!
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