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Old 01-26-2011, 01:48 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Best paint to reproduce Natural Steel finish??

Subject:Best paint to reproduce a Natural Steel finish??Help..

I'm going to cover a few surfaces that were originally Bare (Natural) steel color such as my Brake Pedal housing assembly, and the lower parts of the Windows towards the bottoms of the windows below the beltline of the door.

Anyone got any suggestions of what paint I should order to closely match (Natural Bare steel) ? It's not like this stuff will be seen anyway, but I figured I'd try!

lol..Replating is not an option here...!

Anyone have a suggestion??


Thanks,

Tony K.
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Old 01-26-2011, 10:26 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I used Eastwood Detail Gray for the mentioned parts. It doesn't look exactly like stamped steel, but it's close enough for hidden parts (in my opinion), and the paint itself is probably the best quality paint I've found in a rattle can...it goes on easily and smooth, has good coverage with light coats (something you'd want for tracks, hinges and other moving parts).
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Old 01-26-2011, 10:39 AM   #3 (permalink)
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For detail parts, I use a Rustoleum professional product. Its in the tall can and is called stainless steel. Has zero sheen, makes parts look similar to stainless or more like they were freshly bead blasted. Goes on dry and has lots of metallic in the product.

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7519838-Professional-Performance-Stainless/dp/B002BWOSCQ
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Old 01-26-2011, 12:01 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miketyler View Post
For detail parts, I use a Rustoleum professional product. Its in the tall can and is called stainless steel. Has zero sheen, makes parts look similar to stainless or more like they were freshly bead blasted. Goes on dry and has lots of metallic in the product.

Amazon.com: Rust-Oleum 7519838 Professional High Performance Enamel Spray Paint, Stainless Steel, 14-Ounce: Home Improvement
+1 This is the exact product I use as well. You gotta shake that can hard before spraying to get the solids moving though. I have some pics of items I've sprayed with it up on my blog:

1968 Mustang Convertible Restoration: Too cheap to buy new parts?

See the pics of the rear spring shock plates and the trans tunnel plate.
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Old 01-26-2011, 02:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Sounds good. What's the drying time on this stuff....and what Etching primer did you use??

Tony K.
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Old 01-26-2011, 06:28 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I used the NAPA house brand rattle can etching primer (Tec?). It dries really fast, like 15 minutes.

I'd like to point out that some of the more experienced guys on here will spray the bare metal directly with a satin clear with no color paint at all. Can't get much closer to natural metal than natural metal.
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Old 01-26-2011, 06:42 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Yeah, I've gone the Satin Clear route myself, and I have quite a few of the Old Krylon Satin Clear cans in my stock.. Funny you mentioned it.. I was debating whether to do that as well..but figured Why clear over rust spots...but then again, I haven't tried stripping it yet though. Well, At least I have options!

Thanks!

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Old 01-27-2011, 06:46 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I found that Testor model paint in color steel is a real good color. Unfortunatly it comes only in small bottles. I did buy several bottles one time and thin it and then used a Prevail sprayer.
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Old 02-01-2011, 10:31 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Seymour Co. makes a stainless steel paint that dries dull. Have used it for years-NPD sells it. It has a great metal look.
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Old 02-02-2011, 03:17 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I have taken my bare metal parts to my powder coater and had him spray them with mat clear, there is virtually no detection it's there. Any of them can order it.
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Old 02-04-2011, 08:29 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Does the mat clear come in a high heat type that can be used on exhaust manifold locking tabs?
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Old 02-04-2011, 10:25 PM   #12 (permalink)
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"Does the mat clear come in a high heat type that can be used on exhaust manifold locking tabs?"

I have'nt found a high heat clear yet.....Would love to find one...

On another note, I sprayed my Brake Bracket with the Rustolum Professional Series "Stainless Steel" that I bought at Lowe's..

I am really happy with the results. This stuff is Laquer.. I could tell by the smell of it..

It really looks like metal when sprayed!! I was pleasantly surprised. I highly recommend it.

The earlier poster was right though... You have shake the bejesus out of the can. The "metalflake particles that give it the metal appearance settle to the bottom.

Thumbs up! for the results.

Tony K.
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Old 02-05-2011, 09:56 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Glad you like it. I have used it for years but havent tested on any high heat applications like exhaust components.

Although not ultra high temp application, I have a set of polished valve covers that I had clearcoated. The clear coat knocks the shine down a little on the polished aluminum but they still look great several years later and they wipe clean, no polish necessary.
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Old 02-05-2011, 02:46 PM   #14 (permalink)
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aolshove,

Nice write ups.

Is there any place to buy bench top sized paint can shakers? I hate shaking rattle cans.
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Old 02-05-2011, 03:11 PM   #15 (permalink)
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NEFaurora,

i know you've seen this but i thought i would append it as data to this website.

1. Rust-Oleum Professional Stainless Steel (7519)
1a. Rust-Oleum Professional Stainless Steel (7519) w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313)
2. Dupli-Color Gunmetal Gray (T177)
2a. Dupli-Color Gunmetal Gray (T177) w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313)
3. Dupli-Color Machinery Gray (DA1612)
3a. Dupli-Color Machinery Gray (DA1612) w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313)
4. Seymour Stainless Steel (16-054)
4a. Seymour Stainless Steel (16-054) w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313)
5. Dupli-Color Cast Coat Aluminum (DE1650)
5a. Dupli-Color Cast Coat Aluminum (DE1650) w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313)
6. Seymour Aluminum (16-1201)
6a. Seymour Aluminum (16-1201) w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313)
7. Aluminum Oxide Media Blasted
8. Aluminum Oxide Media Blasted w/Krylon Clear Satin (1313)
9. Natural Steel







the above sample did not contain Eastwood's Detail Gray.

in the below sample, i used Eastwoods Detail Gray on the tube that connects to the rag joint. Rustoleum Professional Stainless Steel as mentioned above is used on the tube that is right next to the tube connecting to the rag joint.



i've been trying to alternate different products on different parts for some contrast. None of them look like natural steel in my opinion, but when it's not right next to the natural steel part, it doesn't look so bad from a few feet away.
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