The Saga to fix my F150 shake issues - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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The Saga to fix my F150 shake issues

Well, after watching about a 40 eleven(which is a lot) of videos on Ford twin I beam front ends on ya'll tube and how to test and replace radius arm bushings and I beam pivot bushings as well as king pins, tie rod ends I think I have found my shake problem.

I found a video that discussed diagnosing problems and at one point, they put a lug wrench up on the head of the I beam where the pivot bushing is. Apparently, these things wear out fairly often which I also did not know but considering what they do, it makes sense. These suspensions do not have an idler arm. The twin I beam pivots serve as those but the twin I beam suspension is a heavy sucker so a lot of stress is put on tie rods and bushings.I could use bolts and washers and my tie rod stud presser but you don't see very many oval washers around. Maybe with grade 8 washers they would catch enough of the outer metal sleeve to press them off and on?

Ok yeah so I finally crawled under the greasy grimy gopher guts(have a small tranny cooler line leak), uh the truck and did the pry bar on it and bingo. There doesn't appear to be much bushing left on the passenger side which has been the worst. Actually, I saw videos of these things that looked a lot worse than mine. I don't see how those trucks were still on the road.

Alls I have to do now is figure out how to press these things out and in. Its not a round shaped bushing. Its sort of ovaloid shaped on my truck like this below. Any ideas how to press these things out and in? Looks like this. I beam and bushing across bottom and unbolted.

331 solid flat cam, rings and bearings break in run up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3MNjb-AiWec
331 break in complete and is waiting on me to finish the body work
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhnOk5FCBkE

Last edited by macstang; 02-13-2017 at 07:18 PM.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 08:16 AM
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I've drilled the rubber out of bushings before the collapse the outer sleeve to remove them. That's what I would do. It's pretty easy way but now you're at the point of no return. I'm not sure what to say about getting the new one in. Maybe use a bottle Jack with a piece of chain or something. I would check to make sure a bottle Jack k will work on it's side. I think I ran into one not working like that.
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I'm not a complete idiot, pieces are missing.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 09:19 AM
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Use a piece of wood, drill a hole in it and run a long bolt through it and through the I beam, slide the bushing on, couple washers, bolt, and tighten. This is how I put my new leafspring bushings in.

Could pull them out the same way, just need a bigger hole in the wood.

69 Mach 1, 351W, T5, owned for 29 years, 03 Mach 1 Azure Blue, 65 fastback, 289, C4 (son's), 67 fastback, 289, C4 (wife's)

Last edited by malarson; 02-14-2017 at 09:21 AM.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 10:15 AM
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What year is the truck?? I just pulled a complete I-beam setup off a '66 and it all looked good....
If you have a press, you can first press the center sleeve out, then using a sharp razor, slice out most of the rubber bushing- cut around the edges while pulling the body of it towards the center with a pair of pliers; it'll cut like butter when stretched. Then you can peen over the outer sleeve like husky mentioned and drive it out with an air hammer. The bad part is that you'll have to remove the beam from the truck to do this. As far as going back in, make sure the beam is nice and clean, devoid of rust- spray liberally with penetrating oil or grease and press the new one back in. Good luck and have fun!

Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken. -Tyler Durden
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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Mine is a 79 but it looks like Ford didn't change a whole lot on these things for years. I looked for an oval bushing antique tool but came up with zip.

I decided to build this thing with all thread, washers and nuts and a piece of exhaust pipe. It is a puller and will pull in either direction. The pipe is an exhaust pipe with a flared end long enough for the bushing to fit inside and that just clears the bushing.

The open end of this will sit against the I beam eyelet. I need to cut out a steel cap for the pipe's other end and drill a hole in the middle of it for the puller nut and washer. The other pair of washers and nuts that sandwich the bushing will be welded together as units so they will tread into the pipe as I crank down on the puller nut. The larger of these washers just catches the outside sleeve of the bushing. The dark grey thing between these sets of nuts and washers is a new bushing for sizing purposes. I think(he said) that this will work.





Does this look like it will work? Cost me a total of like 4 bucks and change.

Totally unrelated, do my coffee table legs look kind of like leaf springs?


331 solid flat cam, rings and bearings break in run up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3MNjb-AiWec
331 break in complete and is waiting on me to finish the body work
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhnOk5FCBkE

Last edited by macstang; 02-14-2017 at 07:37 PM.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 07:53 PM
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I've seen shops with couches in them, but your shop is sweet!

It's true then, everything IS better in Texas!!
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 10:55 AM
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If that doesn't work, go to Advance or AutoZone and rent the ball joint press.
I replaced the bushings on my '76, back in '91, and I think I pressed out the rubber insert and center section, and then used a sawzall on the outer sleeve.
The problem is that outer sleeve, which likes to fuse to the arm.
Try and hit the sleeve with PB Blaster or Kroil, that might help a little.
I just did the leaf spring bushings on a '99 S-10 a few months ago, and three of them pressed out, but on the last one only the rubber pressed out and I had to use the sawzall.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 08:54 PM
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I had a '77 model and one thing that I would strongly suggest you do...is to take the truck to a shop that has a frame machine and get the I-beams pulled back into the proper setup. I was told this by several knowledgeable people in the repair industry. They start to sag over the years and that makes them very hard to get the proper alignment done for the front end. It was around $100 back in the mid-eighties.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 10:02 PM Thread Starter
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I had an alignment check a couple years ago and my I beams are still good and straight.

Well after about 4 hours up until just 30 minutes ago I was fighting with this thing out in the dark with a light. My tool worked sort of. On the pull, it pulled the whole rubber thing out of its steel sleeve and left the sleeve in the I beam. Fortunately, I have an air chisel. I was able to wack it out without damaging the I. I finally got the pilot bushing for the passenger side in. My home made tool worked great for that part. The right is the side where I felt most of my shake.

By then I was tired of the thing but I decided to take it out on the achy shaky road and test it. NO MORE SHAKE Steering was much better. It had a tendency to wander a bit before.

So now, alls I have to do is repeat this torture for the other side. Maybe this dang truck will settle down now so I can get on to other stuff.

331 solid flat cam, rings and bearings break in run up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3MNjb-AiWec
331 break in complete and is waiting on me to finish the body work
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhnOk5FCBkE
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 11:52 PM
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Well, after watching about a 40 eleven(which is a lot)
That is also the code for bananas at the grocery store.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 12:04 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Kid Mechanic View Post
I've seen shops with couches in them, but your shop is sweet!

It's true then, everything IS better in Texas!!
That is my living room which sort of looks shoppish right now. I have the bucket seats for the mustang and a set of seat covers for the truck on the floor. That old grey wrinkled sofa is a leather sofa I have owned for over 20 years and it just won't die. I love the thing. I sleep on it sometimes when my asthma is really bad because it is like sleeping on a giant pillow.

So nobody thinks that my coffee table legs look a bit like leaf springs. I guess it is just me.

Just a handy helpful note on glass top coffee tables. You have to clean the glass just about every day due to pudgy smudgy finger prints which are really aggravating.

331 solid flat cam, rings and bearings break in run up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3MNjb-AiWec
331 break in complete and is waiting on me to finish the body work
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhnOk5FCBkE
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 11:40 AM
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Glad you were able to get the old one out, even though it did turn into a slug fest.
Maybe the next one will pop out in one piece. Keep your fingers crossed.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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The other one came out the same way but I was prepared this time having done the other one. I think the last thing I need to do now is have my alignment checked because the last time they adjusted it, those pilot bushings were most likely on their way out.

I think I will now tackle rebuilding the carbs on my bike. I think the truck is now stable enough that something else won't break while I have the bike apart. The bike has been my back up transportation for several years now and has been very reliable so I can't afford to be without it for long.

331 solid flat cam, rings and bearings break in run up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3MNjb-AiWec
331 break in complete and is waiting on me to finish the body work
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhnOk5FCBkE
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 05:20 AM Thread Starter
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Well, after a couple more test drives on the shaky road I decided to go ahead and replace my radius arm bushings which it appears that it needed. They hadn't rotted or come apart but the rubber had gotten semi-permenantly compressed and that allowed for some play particularly when initially braking or hitting bumps, going over railroad tracks.

Fortunately, my radius arm bushing frame brackets were bolted in but I found 2 of the 3 bolts on each side to be loose. Also, they were not grade 8 bolts so I went to Lowes and got new bolts.

If anybody reading this decides to do your radius arm bushings on one of these trucks, well I have a couple of tips now after having done mine. First, chock the tire front and back of the side you are doing and put a jack under the radius arm to keep it from having a tendency to drop down some.

You may have to use a cheater bar to break your old bushing nuts loose. I did. You have to remove the bushing nuts before you loosen the frame brackets. You can unbolt the frame brackets in any sequence but it is best to put the bottom bolt in first going back together and get it cranked down but still just loose. This will pull the frame bracket up so you can get the side bolts in. If your brackets are riveted in, it will be best in the long run to knock out the rivets and replace them with bolts.

Load the bushing and tighten down the large nut just by hand. It needs a 1 1/8" socket. The holes on the side of the frame brackets may not be perfectly aligned but if you can wedge the bolt into the frame by pushing on the bracket you can use the bolt itself to align the bracket hole with the frame hole.

Once the big bushing nut was in and the frame bracket bolts in I torqued the bracket bolts to 70 and the bushing nuts to 100. Oh yeah, while I had the brackets out I cleaned them up and sprayed them with metal grey. Might as well make them look nice.

Whilst I was laying under there I noticed that my transmission mount was coming apart so I just got one of those in today.

Does it ever end with this thing? I guess I have been driving it too much and neglecting some maintenance and it all sort of built up into a bigger deal.

331 solid flat cam, rings and bearings break in run up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3MNjb-AiWec
331 break in complete and is waiting on me to finish the body work
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhnOk5FCBkE
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