any painters in the house? - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
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Question any painters in the house?

I'm having my '67 f100 blasted as we speak- it had been painted a few times and had plenty of rust, scale, etc on it. This is the first time I've had a body completely blasted and am finding some conflicting ideas on what's next. Here's a few questions;
Should I do the rust repair first, then prime it, or prime it first to keep it from flash rusting?
I'm assuming all the factory seal sealer will be blown out; prime then seal all the joints, or seal first, then prime?
Here's the doozy- epoxy primer or self etching primer??
The cab will be bare steel, along with the box, hood, and doors. I've got the HVLP guns and have sprayed, but it's been a while. Any brand recommendations? Thanks in advance!!

Buckle up- I wanna try something!!
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 09:05 AM
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I would use SPI epoxy primer first before you do any rust repair.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gt350sr View Post
I'm having my '67 f100 blasted as we speak- it had been painted a few times and had plenty of rust, scale, etc on it. This is the first time I've had a body completely blasted and am finding some conflicting ideas on what's next. Here's a few questions;
Should I do the rust repair first, then prime it, or prime it first to keep it from flash rusting?
I'm assuming all the factory seal sealer will be blown out; prime then seal all the joints, or seal first, then prime?
Here's the doozy- epoxy primer or self etching primer??
The cab will be bare steel, along with the box, hood, and doors. I've got the HVLP guns and have sprayed, but it's been a while. Any brand recommendations? Thanks in advance!!

I might only go with with self-etching, while it will prevent flash rust, if I know I want get to the final paint stage for some time (months?). Although I've used self-etching for small parts, I'm not a fan of it's use for a pre-finish primer, as I think a good epoxy is the better plan.
Many DIY'fers (myself included) do the rust repair, prime, add the seam sealer, prep body (primer/fillers) for body finish paint, whatever is needed to prep the body for finish coat. You'll get a lot of hits on this subject.
I did a complete resto with lot's of rust repair, panel replacements etc. Used many different products. My finish is still in great shape after 15 years.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 10:37 AM
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I'd epoxy, then repair. After you spray the first coat, look everywhere on the car. I've blasted bodies many times only to spot the areas I missed painting after they rusted.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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Another thought I forgot to mention- I've read that some guys will actually go over the bare blasted metal with 180 grit prior to priming it. Is that really necessary? I'm guessing the bare metal will need to be wiped down as well- use thinner, or??

Buckle up- I wanna try something!!
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 11:41 AM
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80 grit on a DA for bare metal then use SPI waterborne wax and grease remover. It's what I've done with great results. Check out the link below for great tips on the perfect paint job.
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/perfect-paint-job



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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 12:14 PM
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I agree with Rusty and SPI. Epoxy first then start your body filler and seam sealer.

God bless.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by gt350sr View Post
Another thought I forgot to mention- I've read that some guys will actually go over the bare blasted metal with 180 grit prior to priming it. Is that really necessary? I'm guessing the bare metal will need to be wiped down as well- use thinner, or??

I think so because it helps smooth out the finish after being blasted, which leaves a rough texture.


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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 01:28 PM
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Rough texture is good when it comes to paint adhesion. If the body is bare metal then just wipe with thinner and paint. The more you sand on bare metal, the thinner it gets. If you're epoxying over other paint then DA with 80 and then epoxy.

david

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 01:51 PM
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Run a DA over it, then epoxy.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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Run a DA over it, then epoxy.
80, or 160? Is it vital to get every single spot, or basically just the majority of it? I'm talking about tight spots like in corners, crevices, etc. Is the DA simply to get any sand grit off the body first? I just bought the materials and don't want to spend another $400 by doing it wrong!
I bought a gallon of Transtar 2K Epoxy Primer/Sealer along with the activator, seam sealer, degreaser, and a gallon of their rubberized undercoating for the bottom of the cab and bed.

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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 02:58 PM
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Video everything first. Sometimes the primer will hide an area you want to work on and you will miss it.



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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 05:17 PM
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any painters in the house?

Quote:
Originally Posted by gt350sr View Post
80, or 160? Is it vital to get every single spot, or basically just the majority of it? I'm talking about tight spots like in corners, crevices, etc. Is the DA simply to get any sand grit off the body first? I just bought the materials and don't want to spend another $400 by doing it wrong!
I bought a gallon of Transtar 2K Epoxy Primer/Sealer along with the activator, seam sealer, degreaser, and a gallon of their rubberized undercoating for the bottom of the cab and bed.

DA will remove sand grit as well as provide a better finish for the epoxy to adhere to, but epoxy doesn't require a lot of grit. You could sand 80 OR 160. How I would make the decision is whatever was in my drawer at the time.

Just get the majority of it. You can take a red scotch brite pad or some steel wool to put scratches in the nooks and crannies.

I don't know anything about the Transtar epoxy. I will only use SPI.


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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizer View Post
DA will remove sand grit as well as provide a better finish for the epoxy to adhere to, but epoxy doesn't require a lot of grit. You could sand 80 OR 160. How I would make the decision is whatever was in my drawer at the time.

Just get the majority of it. You can take a red scotch brite pad or some steel wool to put scratches in the nooks and crannies.

I don't know anything about the Transtar epoxy. I will only use SPI.







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Sounds like a plan then- I've got rolls of both 80 and 160, and a fresh box of scotch-brite, so I'm good there. I went to Sherwin Williams for the primer, and the gal gave me the options of this stuff or the SPI as well. She said this stuff has gotten good reviews and they've been selling it for quite a while, so I went with it. It was a little less expensive as well- not by much, but a little. Notice I didn't say 'cheaper'!
Thanks for the advice!


BTW- I was through K-zoo last week!! Took the fam on vaca up to Crystal Mountain- had a great time! Snowed 3" overnight, so the skiing was awesome!

Buckle up- I wanna try something!!
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 09:17 PM
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Like Rusty and Lizer, I'm a SPI fan. I sand blasted, wire wheeled, scraped and oribial sanded my body so by the time I was ready to paint it had plenty of "tooth". Wiped down with SPI wax and grease remover, then epoxy. If you use wax and grease remover, make sure you let it dry and flash out or you will trap solvents and it will surface one way or another. Don't use compressed air to dry it, you're just spraying air and water on a clean surface. Try not to ever break thru the primer while doing your body work. If you do, re epoxy it don't just cover it with some surface primer and think it will be ok. Ask me how I know this..

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