Subaru brakes - Vintage Mustang Forums

 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
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Subaru brakes

My daughter-in-law just called me because she needs new brakes in her 2009 Subaru Legacy 2.5 AWD. She said most of the noise is out back, so the plan is to change all the pads and change the rotors after I have it apart for inspection.

I've never done a Subaru, so I'm wondering if there are any specialty tools required. Can I retract the rear pistons with a C-clamp like I've always done or do I need to spin it back with a tool?

Any hidden dangers? Thanks.

John

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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 12:57 PM
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It's an Akebono caliper. Let me look and see if I've got a good shot of the
piston face. I think that one screws back in.
I assume this is the non-turbo 2.5 engine?
If so, I don't see any pins on the back face of the brake pad.... I think you
may be able to squeeze the pistons back in.

Application came with ceramic rear pads. Akebono was not the OE
provider. Probably Sumitomo.

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Last edited by GT289; 05-19-2017 at 01:22 PM.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GT289 View Post
I assume this is the non-turbo 2.5 engine?
Correct assumption sir.

John

EDIT: Autozone shows rear brake *shoes* for the parking brake, so that must mean a standard disc brake caliper like the fronts. I hate taking things apart and finding surprises.

Thanks.

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http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/v...mustangftp.jpg
now sandblasted and DP40'd since this pic was taken.
http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/v...ngdriveway.jpg
a two legged hole shot, even with a munged up carb and snow tires...

Last edited by John_Del; 05-19-2017 at 02:32 PM.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 06:05 PM
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I did brakes all around on a 2011 with no special tools.

YMMV

1973 Mustang Convertible
460 D0VE-C Heads w/CJ size valves, Lunati voodoo 227/233 cam, Edelbrock performer rpm manifold, FPA headers, Holley 950 HP carb, C6 w/2500 stall converter, 3.25 trac lock
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 10:22 PM
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These are one of my favorites at work, no special tools a screwdriver will push back the piston will still on the car you'll need a 12 or 14 mm wrench to take off the lower caliper bolt swing up the caliper remove the pads ,the a 14mm socket to remove the caliper anchor(bridge) and a hammer to loosen the rotor .The hardest time you'll have is if the inside of the rotor is very rusted and holds the parking brake shoes .

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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-21-2017, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone! It was easier done than said. 14MM box wrench, C clamp and lug wrench and I had all four corners done in 45 minutes (did not change the rotors--- next time).

The parking brake is via small shoes inside the rear rotors, so the rear caliper is standard fare just like the front, and they're supplied by Tokico. Other than the rear pads being smaller, same job as the front.

John

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http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/v...mustangftp.jpg
now sandblasted and DP40'd since this pic was taken.
http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/v...ngdriveway.jpg
a two legged hole shot, even with a munged up carb and snow tires...
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