I know a lot of us vintage mustang owners have newer models as drivers so I hope someone can help.
I have a 95 cobra and the drivers side power window quit working. My haynes manual doesn't give step by step instructions on motor removal, it just says to raise the glass to access the retaining rivets on the bottom and drill them out to remove the glass, followed by removing the regulator and then drilling out the rivets that attach the motor to the door shell.
I can't raise the glass, it's stuck in the down position! I've tried to pull it up by hand but no luck.
It may not be the motor, I've had a rattle inside the door since I bought the car over 6 years ago and when I removed the panel today I found what looks like a guide bracket in the bottom of the door. The rear guide is in place and still attached so I assume it's the front one but I've never had trouble with it until now. When I push the window button I can hear a faint click from the motor but I don't know if it's bad or if the glass is in a bind.
Anyone replaced one of these motors before? I could sure use some pointers.
Never replaced a motor but it sounds like the window is in a bind. Be careful not to get you hands caught!! I would loosen all the mounts you can to free up the glass. See if you can disconnect the motor gearing to manually raise it.
Another thing I have done is to take apart the other door to compare what things should look like.
'07 GT Vert (The family car)
'66 Coupe (For fun)
Previously owned: Blue '66 Coupe, Red '66 Coupe, red '68 Coupe, Black '87 GT HO, Red '00 GT Vert
I had to replace the motor in my 95 a few years ago. As I recall I did not have to remove the glass and the entire job only took about an hour.
Are you sure you are doing it correctly? Mine was a 95 vert.
1965 Coupe 5.0 GT40 Intake and Heads, 65MM TB, Chipped, T5, Shelby drop, roller idler, subframe connectors, Magnaflows, Hurst shifter, MS clutch, BFGs on 15" TTDs, Roller perches, Bilsteins, Needs everything else...
1976 Bronco 351W, 4.11s, 33"s, 3G, 470cfm Holley TA, Softop, Full roll cage, 20 years and almost done!
1982 Kasasaki GPz750 ELR Replica
1973 Kawasaki H1
1986 Honda Interceptor 500
"If you didn't build it; it's not really yours."
I've followed the haynes repair manual but it's pretty vague. I will try to loosen the glass run channels to see if I can free up the glass but I can't really see down into the front part of the door to tell what's binding if anything is.
I'm working today so I'll try again tomorrow when I get back home. Thanks for the help.
I got it. Thanks for the help. I did end up having to remove glass, regulator and motor to do all the repairs I have planned. I'm also trying to replace the door hinges since the pins are a non-serviceable item. This is really gonna be a big PITA. The hinges on these cars have a stud that goes through the A-pillar with a nut on the inside. I may end up having to remove the dash to get to the top one.
I don't know, my wife was driving it at the time. The window was all the way down and she said she tried to put it back up but it wouldn't move. I'll look the motor over before I replace it to see if there's anything obvious that I can repair but I have to get the door rehung on the new hinges before I do anything more with the window.
I'll bet that the motor in a 95 is the same as a 92... When its out there are 3 phillips screws.. Take them out and you slide the plate off.. Pull on the gear itself and it will pop out.. You will see the dots there or the grinded up remains of them in the grease.. (like they were in a blender)
With a test light I get power at the switch at different connections going both up and down so I assume the switch is good. Since I got it out I'll go ahead and replace it. Worst case scenario I'll have to relace the switch too.
I have fixed many of those.
The suggested fix is to replace the whole motor for something over $100, but that is just wrong
Sounds like the 3 plastic bushings are gone.
I have fixed about 10 of these on various Ford products and for $5 a side it is well worth it.
The little red tube on a spray can of a solvent is your friend for getting all the little plastic bits out.
Usually use WD-40 to flush it out as I seem to alays have a can nearby.
I have a bottle of Lucas oil stabiliser that I reload these with. Stuff is useless for engine use, so I might as well use it somewhere1
Lots of luck with the doors...those things are heavy1
Thanks for the tip. I still haven't had a chance yet to mess with the motor, it's laying on the floor but the door is rehung with the new hinges. It wasn't too bad to hang by myself since it was gutted. I'll try to look at the motor tomorrow when I'm off work.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.