Times are changing, guys. Corporate buy outs and "business plans" are now the normal. Auto Zone guy told me their plan is two guys at the counter only. Even if 8 employees are clocked in, two assisting customers only. No matter how long the lines are.
System doesn't require a car parts guy, it's a system a chimp can use.
1995 GT convertible - Laser Red
1995 GT convertible - Black (Son's ride)
1966 GT Fastback under restoration- Code T Red
with White LeMans stripes.
"If I'm breaking the rubber type trans mount and not the motor mounts" Your mounts work as a set. Right now the rear one seems to be the weakest link. Once you upgrade, if you are beating on the car that hard, expect to start breaking the left motor mount. For my money the trans mount is easier and cheaper to replace. Try the urethane, see how it works for you. It might.
Drag racers have very similar mount breakage problems. Might be worth your time to look into how they cope with it. I take it refraining from "snatching gears" isn't an option.
1) Seems to me that whoever wrote the computer parts program chose 1968 as a starting point. This allows the cheap parts store owner to hire a person who knows how to punch keys to look stuff up. Older than 1968 and all you get is dumb looks from even dumber people.
2) In my opinion, NAPA parts are superior in quality. Problem is, I can only think of a few NAPA stores that stay open for any longer than a year or so. And none of those are near me.
3) I always try to get my parts from a parts store that has been around for generations, and, employs older folks who can look up stuff in a catalog. There are some exceptions as Advanced and Autozone both have stores within a ten minute drive, but rarely do I go there.
4) I "used" to go to a parts store I really liked, but, they too changed their inventory to what the cheapest clientel bought, and I'm not in that catagory so I moved on.
I've worked at O'Reilly/Schucks/Kragen for almost 27 years . The company that provides the listing does cut a lot of parts off at 1967/8 for some reason . Very annoying .I constantly use paper catalogs as many times it is easier and faster to find the correct listing . Our new system will list all parts avail back into the 1940's as soon as it rolls out . Find a counter person you like and stick with them .
I take it refraining from "snatching gears" isn't an option.
I've been doing a good bit of drag racing with it and I'm sure that's the problem. I have a metal arm from something off a Ford car that's mounted to the head that has a stout turnbuckle hooked to it and then to the frame on the left side to keep the engine from raring up on that side. It has a little slack in it to allow slight movement.
Another thought. You might want to take the turnbuckle loose and check that mount. If you're riding with a broken motor mount it will repeatedly break the trans mount. With the turnbuckle on you may not even realize the mount has gone. Though the turnbuckle keeps the engine from jumping through the hood it does nothing to help with engine "squirm". Which I suspect is what you are fighting.
I'm not a fan of turnbuckles myself. Mounts have built in safeties but you probably already know they allow a lot of motion. Many folks prefer to drill through the mounts and put a bolt through. Double nutted and just touching the mount, not snug. I had a truck that repeatedly broke a mount when loaded and backing up a hill (which I needed to do regularly). After so many mounts I used a bolt and cured it. By not tightening it it allowed the rubber to do its job and the bolt limited motion enough to not overly stress the rubber with a hard pull.
THe key (I think) to keeping mounts together is to try and equalize their ability to do their. You can't put one in a bind and expect the others not to give.
Thanks for the input. I'm planning to check both mounts and a few other things as I install new clutch setup and new rear gear. Sliding under car from front to rear checking all nuts and bolts to make sure nothing can come loose on me. With fiberglass hood can't take a chance on engine raring up on me.
Think of this: Take the left engine mount off. Drill two 3/8" holes through it. Put two 3/8" bolts with 1.4" of space beteen the bolt head and where the nut will stop the stretching of the mount. Use those nylon lock type nuts. This why, you get rid of aall that turnbuckle hardware.
67 GT 350 (#0036)("Miss July" 2004) owned since 1971. And I still drive it...SAAC 29 Concours GOLD, Div II, MCA Concours Trailered Gold 2X,
Also: 67 GTA S code COUPE (under construction)
General Shelby and Mustang enthusiast, MCA certified Concours judge
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