Man I need a lot more practice before even considering welding on Shug...
__________________
Steven
Hickory, NC
1966 Coupe
Replaced
Full floor pan
Firewall
Full cowl
Radiator support
Shelby Drop done
Up next:
4 wheel drum to disc conversion, rebuild front suspension/steering, taillight panel, trunk floor,302 and AOD upgrade, wiring harnesses back in, and hopefully only patch panels on the quarters
E=MChuck Norris
LOL , one trick to getting it dialed in , listen to the the welder , it should make a tight bzzzt sound . watch some of the you tube videos and listen to the welder sound .
Gonna check out A LOT of you tube videos on mig welding. Plus need to pick up some 18 gauge scrap metal to learn on. Was just playing around with some thicker steel over the weekend.
__________________
Steven
Hickory, NC
1966 Coupe
Replaced
Full floor pan
Firewall
Full cowl
Radiator support
Shelby Drop done
Up next:
4 wheel drum to disc conversion, rebuild front suspension/steering, taillight panel, trunk floor,302 and AOD upgrade, wiring harnesses back in, and hopefully only patch panels on the quarters
E=MChuck Norris
The metal MUST be clean too and not just right at the point of welding, but for between 3/4 to an inch around all sides....any rust or other crud WILL create problems. Most of what we weld on our cars is @20 guage...keep that in mind when you go from 18 to 20. You will probably need to make adjustments to your settings. Good luck! It's fun to melt metal
+ 1 on clean clean clean. Also keep the mig tip < 1/2 inch from the puddle, otherwise the sheilding gas won't shield. The sound I have heard and agree with most is the sound of bacon frying. Its not exactly like that but you'll know it when you hear it. I found it most helpful to weld thicker metal first, looking for the "puddle", then take the puddle try to write your name with it. When you got that then use the puddle and mix it back and forth joining two pieces of metal. Then you go to thinner metal and repeat. I just found it hard to learn with thin first because of blowout. Did you already cut out some of the rust? If so you have the perfect scrap to practice on. I can show ya in 5 minutes, just let me know.
I think I still have most of the battery apron from mine if you want free scrap. Its factory Ford metal so it should be just right for practice. You can also practice on garden tools, the lawn mower, the mailbox, a bicycle/tricycle, or braces/brackets that are less critical than the mustang body. Put the word out in the neighborhood and you find lots of little practice items. (stay away from cast iron- it can be done but not a good beginner item)
like mike said listen to the welder. i was always told you want it to sound like bacon fying but i never heard the "bacon frying sound" just a good steady buzz with no popping. you did the right thing by learning on thiskcer stuff first to. just work your way thinner and thinner.
__________________
The Mistress- '67 coupe, 289, 4.10's, 17's and
various other do-dads
The Pro-Mod- '97 F150 on 42's and 20's soon to
have a 4bt cummins under the hood (no longer with me and boy do I miss that truck)
The Scooter-'08 GSXR 600 white on white, olson
pipe
Spot- 2004 Land Rover Disco II, snorkel, roof rack, and tube bumpers are in the planning stages now.
"He was a good christian boy untill he got tangled up with loose women, hard liquer and fast cars"
-My parts guy
In my two attempts at welding I never did see the puddle everyone mentions. Really only saw the red dot. Does it take longer for the puddle to form?
And DZAHM, I will definitely take you up on your offer. Just let me know a Saturday or Sunday that is good with you.
__________________
Steven
Hickory, NC
1966 Coupe
Replaced
Full floor pan
Firewall
Full cowl
Radiator support
Shelby Drop done
Up next:
4 wheel drum to disc conversion, rebuild front suspension/steering, taillight panel, trunk floor,302 and AOD upgrade, wiring harnesses back in, and hopefully only patch panels on the quarters
E=MChuck Norris
1st order of business is finding/seeing the puddle. Get a thicker piece of metal, set welder on high, pull trigger, hold until you see the puddle. Should be 3-5 seconds, but it won't hurt the welder if you sit there for 30 seconds. It will be a "EUREKA" moment. Then the fun starts, and you can "dip" your wire into the puddle, and write your name, make a smiley face, etc. You possibly have your helmet set too dark to see the puddle, did your helmet come with a book? IIRC my hobart is set at 12ish....I can check if you need me to. I might be available Sat evening after 2pm, Sunday is prob a wash w/mothers day and all. If not maybe next weekend.
2 would be perfect Saturday. I should have the yard cut by then, weather permitting.
I guess I just haven't held the welder on long enough. Will try again tonight to see that puddle. And should I assume that I would never see the puddle in the 18 or 20 gauge metal?
__________________
Steven
Hickory, NC
1966 Coupe
Replaced
Full floor pan
Firewall
Full cowl
Radiator support
Shelby Drop done
Up next:
4 wheel drum to disc conversion, rebuild front suspension/steering, taillight panel, trunk floor,302 and AOD upgrade, wiring harnesses back in, and hopefully only patch panels on the quarters
E=MChuck Norris
It's important that you push the weld, also. A big mistake that beginning welders make is to try and pull the weld behind them. In doing this, your wire is always fed to the leading edge of the puddle. When you try and pull the weld, the puddle builds up against the cooled weld behind it, causing it to mound up.
I learned how to weld because of my Mustang too. I got a really heavy steel plate to practice running beads on. Then transitioned into welding sheets of thinner gauge together until I felt comfortable enough to weld my floor pans in. Just like shaneh said, make sure you are pushing and not pulling and be aware of the angle you're holding the gun so that your shielding gas is protecting the weld. Once you get the hang of it it's really fun and you'll be surprised at how usefull it is to have a welder. I've done everything from fixing a buddies mower to making a firewood rack out of tubing. Good luck!
I learned how to weld because of my Mustang too. I got a really heavy steel plate to practice running beads on. Then transitioned into welding sheets of thinner gauge together until I felt comfortable enough to weld my floor pans in. Just like shaneh said, make sure you are pushing and not pulling and be aware of the angle you're holding the gun so that your shielding gas is protecting the weld. Once you get the hang of it it's really fun and you'll be surprised at how usefull it is to have a welder. I've done everything from fixing a buddies mower to making a firewood rack out of tubing. Good luck!
What is the correct angle to hold the gun?
__________________
Steven
Hickory, NC
1966 Coupe
Replaced
Full floor pan
Firewall
Full cowl
Radiator support
Shelby Drop done
Up next:
4 wheel drum to disc conversion, rebuild front suspension/steering, taillight panel, trunk floor,302 and AOD upgrade, wiring harnesses back in, and hopefully only patch panels on the quarters
E=MChuck Norris
You should ALWAYS see the puddle, its just that on thin stuff you are done about a second after the puddle is visible. You see it on thick stuff, and "play" with the puddle to get the hang of it. On thin stuff you will know its there, and will use the puddle but you won't have long enough to practice with it (or you'll warp the metal or blowthrough it) I realize this is wordy, when you see it the first time it will all become crystal clear. You will be shocked at how easy it is once you get the basic "rules" down pat. I will make sure the wife is cool w/Saturday
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