RapidAir plumbing kit - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-08-2012, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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RapidAir plumbing kit

Has anyone used this kit

RapidAir 3/4in. MaxLine Master Kit, Model# M7500 | Air Piping Kits| Northern Tool + Equipment

Steven
Hickory, NC
1966 Coupe
2007 Premium MustangCoupe (V6).. Please don't shun me

Done
Replace Full floor pan
Replace Firewall
Replace Full cowl
Replace Radiator support
Shelby Drop done
Front disc brakes on

Up next:

4 wheel drum to disc conversion, rebuild front suspension/steering, taillight panel, trunk floor,302 and AOD upgrade, wiring harnesses back in, and hopefully only patch panels on the quarters

E=MChuck Norris
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post #2 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-08-2012, 03:20 PM
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I've seen them , but at $200.00 i'd just hard line it . overtime the poly tube will fail . IMHO

1966 convert
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post #3 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-08-2012, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, that is what I was thinking as well... Prolly gonna go with 3/4" schedule 80 pvc

Steven
Hickory, NC
1966 Coupe
2007 Premium MustangCoupe (V6).. Please don't shun me

Done
Replace Full floor pan
Replace Firewall
Replace Full cowl
Replace Radiator support
Shelby Drop done
Front disc brakes on

Up next:

4 wheel drum to disc conversion, rebuild front suspension/steering, taillight panel, trunk floor,302 and AOD upgrade, wiring harnesses back in, and hopefully only patch panels on the quarters

E=MChuck Norris
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post #4 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-08-2012, 04:49 PM
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what size compressor ? the PVC sch80 been know to bust over time too .
I run my 7.5 hp on 3/4 iron pipe

1966 convert
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post #5 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-08-2012, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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This un

Shop Kobalt 3.7 HP 60-Gallon 155 PSI Electric Air Compressor at Lowes.com

Steven
Hickory, NC
1966 Coupe
2007 Premium MustangCoupe (V6).. Please don't shun me

Done
Replace Full floor pan
Replace Firewall
Replace Full cowl
Replace Radiator support
Shelby Drop done
Front disc brakes on

Up next:

4 wheel drum to disc conversion, rebuild front suspension/steering, taillight panel, trunk floor,302 and AOD upgrade, wiring harnesses back in, and hopefully only patch panels on the quarters

E=MChuck Norris
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post #6 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-08-2012, 05:36 PM
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i'd hardline it , you can use copper but copper is the new gold price wise lately .

1966 convert
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post #7 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-09-2012, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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Have you ever used any of the Harbor Freight condensation valves or filters?

Steven
Hickory, NC
1966 Coupe
2007 Premium MustangCoupe (V6).. Please don't shun me

Done
Replace Full floor pan
Replace Firewall
Replace Full cowl
Replace Radiator support
Shelby Drop done
Front disc brakes on

Up next:

4 wheel drum to disc conversion, rebuild front suspension/steering, taillight panel, trunk floor,302 and AOD upgrade, wiring harnesses back in, and hopefully only patch panels on the quarters

E=MChuck Norris
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post #8 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-09-2012, 11:37 AM
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i have the H/F regulator/filter at each hose connection as a last water trap before the flexible hose .

1966 convert
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post #9 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-09-2012, 11:46 AM
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this is what i have right before each hose .
Industrial Air Filter Regulator

1966 convert
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post #10 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-09-2012, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
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Any problems with those? Saw not so good reviews on them.

Steven
Hickory, NC
1966 Coupe
2007 Premium MustangCoupe (V6).. Please don't shun me

Done
Replace Full floor pan
Replace Firewall
Replace Full cowl
Replace Radiator support
Shelby Drop done
Front disc brakes on

Up next:

4 wheel drum to disc conversion, rebuild front suspension/steering, taillight panel, trunk floor,302 and AOD upgrade, wiring harnesses back in, and hopefully only patch panels on the quarters

E=MChuck Norris
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post #11 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-09-2012, 11:55 AM
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After running hardline all over my garage, I found that I only really use one of the outlets that I installed - probably because it's the most convenient and also has all the air driers and filters. I have 2 other connections that are straight off the tank and another that has a regulator but no filter or drier. I used 1/2" iron pipe for my lines. I just don't trust PVC pipe, regardless of thickness, since it gets brittle when cold - and it does get cold in the northeast. I'd rather not have PVC shrapnel flying all over my garage.

As far as Harbor Frieght stuff, I have a dissicant drier that I got from there that works pretty good. It's basically a 2 foot piece of iron pipe filled with dessicant beads. I haven't seen it at any of the stores recently and it's not on the website anymore, so maybe it's discontinued now. I haven't tried any of their other filters. To get the driest air possible (without sinking a large amount of money in a refrigerated air dryer), I am using the Harbor Frieght drier that holds 2 lbs of silica beads, followed by a Devilbiss QC3 filter/drier to catch any remaining water or oil. I've been pleased so far. I use the Harbor Freight drier as a pre-filter/drier since silica beads are significantly cheaper than the filter cartridge that the Devilbiss filter uses. Luckily, at this time of year, the humidity drops way off so I don't saturate the silica so quickly. It really sucks in the summer when the humidity is 100000% all the time.

I only run the air through the Devilbiss filter when I use my spray guns. For eveything else, the other drier is good enough - I just want to make extra sure that no water makes it to the spray gun.

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Last edited by Greg'66 5.0; 11-09-2012 at 12:29 PM.
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post #12 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-09-2012, 12:22 PM
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No problems with the regulator/filters , i've had them installed for 5 years along with a 2 stage water trap /filter at the compressor made by speedaire (graingers) . I've done alot of painting so i don't like any moisture in my air lines

1966 convert
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post #13 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-09-2012, 01:13 PM
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My dad had schedule 80 PVC for his compressor lines for over 25 years with no issues. I have it on mine now. 6 years here in Colorado in an unheated garage and no issues. Schedule 80 PVC 1/2" is rated a 850psi @ 73 degree temps. I don't think it's an issue with my 120psi max I run thru my air lines. I've never heard of anyone witnessing first hand the failure of PVC pipe used for air lines. I have seen compressor tanks fail firsthand from corrosion because they weren't taken care of. And that you definitely don't want to be around for.

After doing some research, I do see where OSHA does prohibit the use of PVC as air lines. But I'm not going to change mine out.

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post #14 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-09-2012, 01:35 PM
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For the length and cost of running in my garage, I just went with type M copper pipe, and some solder. DIdn't cost too much at all (And I put a bunch of U's and 1/4 ball valves every so often where I wanted a hose.. Of course I end up only using one of them!

Seemed a lot easier than running iron pipe/threading, etc.. and contrary to internet lore, I see no reason M won't suffice.
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post #15 of 51 (permalink) Old 11-09-2012, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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I should mention that I also plan on replacing the standard metal line running from the compressor to the tank with coiled copper wire. Have heard that will help reduce heat before it gets to the tank.

Steven
Hickory, NC
1966 Coupe
2007 Premium MustangCoupe (V6).. Please don't shun me

Done
Replace Full floor pan
Replace Firewall
Replace Full cowl
Replace Radiator support
Shelby Drop done
Front disc brakes on

Up next:

4 wheel drum to disc conversion, rebuild front suspension/steering, taillight panel, trunk floor,302 and AOD upgrade, wiring harnesses back in, and hopefully only patch panels on the quarters

E=MChuck Norris
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