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post #1 of 91 (permalink) Old 02-14-2016, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
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Enclosed Car Trailer

For those who have an enclosed car trailer, or use one on a regular basis, I am looking into upgrading from my open trailer to one. So here are a few questions I have for you who have and use them. Other than the added triangular space, what is the advantage of a V nose? I am frugal, so I am looking at a base trailer that I can add options to. An example is this one advertised on eBay, an 8.5' x 24'. What options did you either purchase it with, or you added that you found the most useful? What if any, did you figure you could have done with out?

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post #2 of 91 (permalink) Old 02-14-2016, 11:11 AM
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Don't buy because it is cheap...you get what you pay for. I've owned a half dozen trailers and pulled many more...The trailer I have now Is a Haulmark edge that I bought lightly used. 26' flat front for about 5k. This trailer was 12k new and the quality of workmanship far exceeds the trailers like you have posted. I bought a similar trailer once and spent an hour after every long pull re attaching everything that rattled loose during the trip. The v-nose gives you a bit more room, but It gave me no noticeable difference during use either fuel mileage or ease of pulling. I was using a 2012 Ford F-250... JMO good luck hunting, it's very confusing unless you have pulled 'em... I've regretted trailer purchases after the first trip. The reason I bought this trailer is after the purchase of a "no name" 28 foot that was virtually all over the road because of the poor design of the trailer and axle placement. Just my 2 cents

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post #3 of 91 (permalink) Old 02-15-2016, 03:08 PM
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That is very similar to what I have. I did not go top dollar because I could not afford it and I do not haul cars for a living. I have had my trailer a couple of years and it has served me well for hauling and storing my car. I'm actually taking a road trip tomorrow to pick up a Cobra for my buddy if the weather permits.


When I got mine the only two upgrades I got were LED exterior lights, and radial tires. The rest I did myself. I painted the inside and had an additive put in the floor paint for traction. I got an e-track system and installed in the floor for more loading options. I added a battery and some 12 LED strips so I could see inside even when it wasn't hooked to my truck. I will be adding an electric winch in the near future.
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post #4 of 91 (permalink) Old 02-15-2016, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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That is very similar to what I have. I did not go top dollar because I could not afford it and I do not haul cars for a living. I have had my trailer a couple of years and it has served me well for hauling and storing my car. I'm actually taking a road trip tomorrow to pick up a Cobra for my buddy if the weather permits.


When I got mine the only two upgrades I got were LED exterior lights, and radial tires. The rest I did myself. I painted the inside and had an additive put in the floor paint for traction. I got an e-track system and installed in the floor for more loading options. I added a battery and some 12 LED strips so I could see inside even when it wasn't hooked to my truck. I will be adding an electric winch in the near future.
Lighting looks like something I would do. You purchased it new? Care to share more details, brand, size, etc? I have a Harbor Freight 5k winch that I mounted on a Reese hitch mount. I welded a receiver to my flat trailer behind the manual tongue jack so that I can remove it and keep it out of the weather. I'm watching a used 2014 20' Freedom on ebay now. It was a race car trailer and they put the E-Track on the walls, not the floor. Currently at $3250 and reserve not met. Otherwise it looks like a trip to Ga and about $4.5k (before any options/upgrades) to bring one home. Florida, no salt on the roads, no mountains to go over, and most major roads are divided.

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post #5 of 91 (permalink) Old 02-15-2016, 04:48 PM
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Mine's a Cynergy Lightning 24 footer.

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post #6 of 91 (permalink) Old 02-15-2016, 04:59 PM
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a V nose is a little more aerodynamic and you might get better gas mileage. my 2006 f350 gets the same fuel mileage if i'm pulling a trailer or not pulling a trailer. i would never get a V nose because of the wasted space. the big thing that will affect fuel mileage is the amount of weight you pull with a gas engine. my diesel gets the same mileage if i'm not pulling or pulling 11,000 pound. i have checked it many times. the other thing is speed. the faster i go the faster the fuel gauge heads towards "WALK". the slower i go the more the fuel guage stays toward "RIDE". and thats pulling or not pulling.

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post #7 of 91 (permalink) Old 02-15-2016, 05:22 PM
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I was in on a conversation last year at TWS involving some racers that knew plenty about trailers and had used them for 20+ years. Their consensus was that it would be better to buy a used "all aluminum" trailer (especially one that had some extras already installed, track, shelves, racks, etc.) than a brand new steel/wood one. Their remarks included pulling better because they were both lighter and more rigid, they would last longer and be worth more on resale.
i cant knock the one you linked, I'm jealous of anything more than our flatbed sooo...
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post #8 of 91 (permalink) Old 02-15-2016, 06:11 PM
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I have a Carmate 24' and it is great. On the left side is a large swing up awning door that is perfect for easily getting in/out of the car. It is low enough that the bottom of the door clears it and I can swing my mustang door fully open. There is about 2" clearance under the door. I was debating between the Halmark and this one and the awning door sold me.

I did get mine new, and now after I added things in side, I do agree with the comment on finding a used trailer with all of the goodies already installed since it will save you $$$.

Also get a good hitch with an load equalizer/sway control system. I have a Reese straightline and I can hardly tell I am pulling 10,000lbs.

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post #9 of 91 (permalink) Old 02-16-2016, 07:25 AM
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Also get a good hitch with an load equalizer/sway control system. I have a Reese straightline and I can hardly tell I am pulling 10,000lbs.
X2
Especially if your tow rig is "less than ideal", or if the trailer will weigh more than the truck.

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post #10 of 91 (permalink) Old 02-16-2016, 01:38 PM
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I just re read my response and want to clarify... I didn't want my response to come out like I thought the trailer was a piece of crap, but when I read it back it kinda comes off in that way. What I meant was to make sure you don't make a decision entirely based on a low price.I have wasted more money than I would like to speak of because I got a " speeding ticket" on a purchase. Base your purchase on how YOU are going to use the trailer. I use mine regularly and quickly recognize when I have made a mistake. I was able to buy a top of the line trailer with many upgrades and accessories for a fraction of the new price. It took a while to find a lightly used one but they are out there. Mine is an '08 with fully dressed interior including cabinets, electric jack, upgraded axles and Reese straight line stabilizer. Just be patient...take it from someone that doesn't always do that.
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post #11 of 91 (permalink) Old 02-16-2016, 02:06 PM
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We have a 24' Haulmark. We bought it new for a little over $10k two years ago - it was on "sale" from $13k because the lot owner stored his '65 Falcon in it lol.

Things I like about it:
1) It's the extra tall version, so my 6'1" hubby doesn't have to slouch over walking around.
2) This particular dealer always welds 2' extensions onto the frame to extend the hitch. This helps immensely with your turning radius.
3) We have a top "skylight" with a vent that we can close/open. It usually is light enough inside that we don't have to turn on the interior lights - of which it has two.
4) Ours has the finished vinyl walls and roof. Kinda makes it look cleaner, certainly makes it brighter (it's white), and the vinyl won't dent or scratch a door.
5) We painted the floor with traction paint that's made for around pools. It's water repellent and provides excellent traction. Oil drips just wipe up too.
6) I installed two short e-tracks on the inside nose, and ratchet-strapped a rolling tool cart to them. There's enough storage in the front for it, plus a canopy, 2 or more chairs, extra fluids, jacks, and ramps.
7) We made sure it came with radial tires (some of the cheaper trailers still come with bias-ply. No thanks). Plus ours has a full-size spare.
8) Ours has the "road side" door, which comes in handy if you just want to open it and check on the car...but the side man door is just fine for this as well.
9) LED lights all around.

Things I don't like about it:
1) The wood flooring has popped up in places (warped) and at times can be scary when driving over it as it makes creaking noises.
2) The roof is STILL shedding sawdust.
3) I wish we could have afforded torsion axles...but honestly, it rides just fine whether loaded or empty. I'm sure if I used it more for longer distances it would be a nice upgrade to handling - but I really don't have any problems with the springs. I'm used to hauling big @ss horse trailers with living, moving high-centered weight so pulling one static car with a low center of gravity is a piece of cake.
4) I have yet to buy & mount a winch. I figure I will the day after I need one at the track, and just have to round up grunts lol.
5) I need a set of homemade ramps (basically 2x4s) to get my car(s) into the trailer without hanging up on the lip because the ramp is so steep...or the cars are too low haha. Learned that lesson the hard way. :-/
6) The jack had to be replaced after a year as it suddenly decided to not crank UP. We got a higher quality one installed.

We chose Haulmark because the quality is so much better than the cheaper ones. The nice thing about enclosed trailers is that you can use them for other things than hauling cars. Ours is currently storing hubby's small boat, and I've used it to haul stuff to swap meets. You don't have to worry about stuff getting wet (it rains here a lot).


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post #12 of 91 (permalink) Old 02-16-2016, 05:10 PM
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This is a few pics of the door opening when I first tested the awning door opening. Definitely makes getting in easy. I did the test with my lowest sitting car which was my 70B2.

Also the front spoiler just clears the ramp, so no additional ramps or build ups are needed.








+1 on the comments from others: radial tires, torsion axles, welded plate in front for the winch (needed once so far at the track).

Only thing I do not like is the end of the ramp door has a plywood piece that flips down to ease the entry, gets wrecked at the edge. That will be diamond plate eventually.

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post #13 of 91 (permalink) Old 02-16-2016, 08:05 PM
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When I was restoring my 67 and new I'd have to back and forth to body shop in any weather, I did lots of research on trailers back around 2004. For a couple reasons I bought an enclosed trailer to not only move the car but store it. Since I'm a big fan of you get what you pay for, I bought a new Wells Cargo 20' x 8' flat nose enclosed, 1000 series. I was told then they were the only brand that undercoated the bottom side of trailer. They come with rear flip down jack stands which is nice if you want unload in the yard and not need truck, plus just nice not having that truck bounce. It also has the single rear door latch setup which I liked. Can close and lock it standing on just one side.When I ordered it, had 2 sky lites, 3000lb winch with it's own battery, charges when you drive. I knew not every car I haul may run. Has electric brakes on both axles. But I think all enclosed that size would have. I know not all open trailers have dual axle brakes. I did change out back lites to LED lights because I know often times people behind you not paying attention and LED's light brighter and faster. Now adding radial tires. Only thing I regret not ordering was a side access door. My 1st day owning I painted floor using deck paint and added sand into paint for traction when wet. Wanted paint down before oil leaks.
Now it's used mostly used to store my car in winter. Or used when a friend needs it. I also own an Anderson 18' open deck trailer for the simple fair weather pick ups.
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post #14 of 91 (permalink) Old 02-17-2016, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 69GT350H View Post
For those who have an enclosed car trailer, or use one on a regular basis, I am looking into upgrading from my open trailer to one. So here are a few questions I have for you who have and use them. Other than the added triangular space, what is the advantage of a V nose? I am frugal, so I am looking at a base trailer that I can add options to. An example is this one advertised on eBay, an 8.5' x 24'. What options did you either purchase it with, or you added that you found the most useful? What if any, did you figure you could have done with out?
FWIW, we have 26' enclosed Timberwolf trailer. Bought it used with finished interior and flooring, lights--in and out and a full length awning. I added a roof top ac unit and a winch along with a bar type fridge. Given the choice, go with as long as trailer as you can afford/pull. IN ours, we can put a bed at the front (a bed in a box type thing), and still have the car inside when we are at the track.

Personally, I feel the V nose type is a waste of space. Also, given the option, go the higher rated axles--I think ours are 10000 lb if I remember correctly. HTH's



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post #15 of 91 (permalink) Old 03-05-2016, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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So here is what I am ordering

Standard 8.5 x 24 (DIAMOND)
8.5 x 24Ft Tandem Axle Enclosed Cargo Trailer-Rear Ramp Door, 36" RV Style Side Door, 2' V-Nose 4050.00

Standard Features Include: 16" O.C. Floor, 16" O.C. Wall, 24" O.C. Roof Members, 2000 LB A-Frame Jack With Sand Foot, 2 5/16" Coupler, Triple Tube Tongue, 36" Side Door With Flush Lock, 6" Tube Steel Main Frame, 16" Flap On Ramp Door, White Aluminum Metal, Screwed Exterior, Interior Height 78", 3/4" Plywood Floors, 3/8" Plywood Walls, (1) 12Vt Dome Light, (4) 5000 LB D-Rings, White Spoke Wheel, ST 225 15" Bias Ply Tires, Aluminum Fenders, Galvalume Roof, Non Powered Roof Vent, 24" Stone Guard, ATP Covered Stepwell, (1) Aluminum Ramp Door Handle, 3500 LB Drop Leaf Spring Axles With Electric Brakes, 7 Way Bargman Plug, No Show Beavertail On 16" & Above, Heavy Duty Ramp Door With Flap, Transition flap, Door Hold Back, V-Nose With ATP, E-Z Lube Hubs

Upgrade Axles 5200 LB Upgrade to 5200lb Torsion Axles 750.00 1 750.00
LED LIGHTS LED Lights Throughout 95.00 1 95.00
Spare Spare Tire 115.00 1 115.00
Miscellaneous Recessed Spare Tire Compartment 155.00 1 155.00
E Track Floor E Track On Floors 12.00 40 480.00
E-Track Walls E Track On Walls 12.00 40 480.00

Total before taxes and fees $6125.00

The E Track is welded to the trailer's frame and then flush mounted (both walls and floor). I will insulate both walls and ceiling and add paneling to roof after wiring for an RV style 12v roof vent fan, 12v LED strip lights and rear door overhead LED bar lights for rear door illumination. From the E track down I will coat the plywood with a bed liner type coating then cover with a thin indoor/outdoor carpet. Still have to decide how to finish off the rear ramp door. I have had a hitch load lever given to me. For the price they want to upgrade the tires to radials, I will go ahead and wear out the bias ply first, then purchase the radials.

I have heard from people that have the drivers escape door, and those that do not, and decided to go without that option. The lack of that hole in the side plus my adding the E Track will make the side of the trailer much stronger. There were a lot of other options that sound interesting, but they were either pricey, or really not needed. Though the $2k A/C system (roof top unit and trailer fully wired for 60 amp 110v) does sound nice for those hot Florida summer car shows...

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