About to go on a chassis wiring kit: opinions - Page 3 - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #31 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-01-2017, 05:05 AM
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Heres another link. Maybe they expire?

https://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-1896.../dp/B006O1Y1FY

-Brett
1968 Mustang coupe 5.0/T5
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post #32 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-01-2017, 06:03 AM
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https://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-1896...Tool+aid+18960

If these links don't work, just go to amazon.com and in their search block type "S&G tool aid 18960

I have a set of terminal crimpers that I use for weatherpak terminals that I got online about $20. Most of the weatherpack crimpers that I've seen are about double that. The only difference in the crimp is that I have to turn the tool over to make the final crimp, where the high priced tool does it all in one operation. So it can pay to look around for the tools.
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Dynacorn 67 fastback. Dart 363, Close ratio Magnum 6 speed, 3.70 Eaton Truetrac in a fabricated full floater 9", SorT coil over suspension. Still in pieces.
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post #33 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-01-2017, 02:43 PM
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Look here for the tools needed, Weather Pack Terminal and Seal Crimper | Wide-Range Crimper | Cable Seal Crimper | Delphi Packard Terminal Crimpers See tool numbers T14 and T15. You will have to call to get prices. I purchased mine from them when I started my AAW install, as others have said the AAW is a really well designed kit. A godsend for those that have added a lot of ancillary accessories that these cars never came with.
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post #34 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66HertzClone View Post
You purchased the Weather Pack T14 and T15 when you did your AAW? How was the resulting work?

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/507/...ange-Crimper-/

https://theelectricaldepot.com/tools...edec0cd74af063

Starting to look like the standard two-pack deal from AAW might be the route to go anyway!

-Tom
1968 Mustang Fastback
2015 Ford F150 FX4
2006 Mitsubishi Evolution IX
2002 Chrysler 300M Special

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post #35 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017, 10:02 PM Thread Starter
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Ah, the hell with it, I wanna do it right.

aaw tools en route!

Perhaps I can reuse them for the FP Coyote harness.

Can't wait to get started!

-Tom
1968 Mustang Fastback
2015 Ford F150 FX4
2006 Mitsubishi Evolution IX
2002 Chrysler 300M Special

SchnorrCS: when people find out how into these cars I am, all the sudden they have/had one just like mine, but it was purple and had a hemi, and was a Shelby.
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post #36 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 03:15 PM
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MY honest recommendation as you wait for delivery is to purchase some nice braided split style loom material. And section of a portion of your house where you have enough floor space to lay it out once it comes in. Then lay it out on the floor in the same orientation that you want it to go in the car. What I did was to replace the small zip ties they use to hold each loom with a wrap or two of harness tape and then cover them in the braided sleeve. What I found was that this made the wiring much easier to pull through grommets etc because all the little zip tie nubs didn't get caught.

I added a certain degree of difficulty to my install because I was also wiring in my EFI and it's sensors etc at the same time, and I was also hiding all wiring in the engine bay. In fact besides at the battery there is no visible wiring in my entire bay. Well worth the effort. Instead I ran a loom on either side of the inside of the fenders. Pass side was all power feed wires for things like ignition and the EFI as well as the main harness. Drivers side is only for lighting in the front, things like headlights, turn signals etc. This keeps it organized so if there is ever a fault I know exactly where to start looking and with all of the wires being labeled trouble shooting and even adding on later is super simple. My third run goes through the firewall but is low enough to be hidden by the engine. This feeds the EFI as well as all sensors for things like temp and were hidden along the intake.

If you are going for an OE correct car then this isn't the route for you probably. But if you have a modified driver like mine I can't even tell you how worth it is has been. I honestly think in the long run keeping everything sorted like this has made going back in and fiddling with stuff easier. Plus having it all hidden really really cleans up the engine bay. I have a lot of technology in my car, but I wanted to have it all hidden so that it just looks like a really clean carbureted lil 289 sitting in there. But with a coyote you will probably have at least the amount of wiring to run that I did, so hiding it will really let that modern motor sing in the engine bay.

I used the spring covers and j hooks to hold the wires. I had my fenders off at the time, but it can totally be done without pulling them off. Just pull the splash shields and order a couple of rubber grommets about the size you will need. My car does't leak a drop and I was able to reuse mostly the factory holes to run everything.
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post #37 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanSterling966 View Post
MY honest recommendation as you wait for delivery is to purchase some nice braided split style loom material. And section of a portion of your house where you have enough floor space to lay it out once it comes in. Then lay it out on the floor in the same orientation that you want it to go in the car. What I did was to replace the small zip ties they use to hold each loom with a wrap or two of harness tape and then cover them in the braided sleeve. What I found was that this made the wiring much easier to pull through grommets etc because all the little zip tie nubs didn't get caught.

I added a certain degree of difficulty to my install because I was also wiring in my EFI and it's sensors etc at the same time, and I was also hiding all wiring in the engine bay. In fact besides at the battery there is no visible wiring in my entire bay. Well worth the effort. Instead I ran a loom on either side of the inside of the fenders. Pass side was all power feed wires for things like ignition and the EFI as well as the main harness. Drivers side is only for lighting in the front, things like headlights, turn signals etc. This keeps it organized so if there is ever a fault I know exactly where to start looking and with all of the wires being labeled trouble shooting and even adding on later is super simple. My third run goes through the firewall but is low enough to be hidden by the engine. This feeds the EFI as well as all sensors for things like temp and were hidden along the intake.

If you are going for an OE correct car then this isn't the route for you probably. But if you have a modified driver like mine I can't even tell you how worth it is has been. I honestly think in the long run keeping everything sorted like this has made going back in and fiddling with stuff easier. Plus having it all hidden really really cleans up the engine bay. I have a lot of technology in my car, but I wanted to have it all hidden so that it just looks like a really clean carbureted lil 289 sitting in there. But with a coyote you will probably have at least the amount of wiring to run that I did, so hiding it will really let that modern motor sing in the engine bay.

I used the spring covers and j hooks to hold the wires. I had my fenders off at the time, but it can totally be done without pulling them off. Just pull the splash shields and order a couple of rubber grommets about the size you will need. My car does't leak a drop and I was able to reuse mostly the factory holes to run everything.
Ryan-
I'm ordering the AAW kit in the next few weeks and I'm thinking of hiding my wiring as you have describe and will also be adding TBI injection wiring at the same time, although my fenders are already installed. If I am following your comments correctly, you pulled the splash shields, drilled holes in them, installed grommets and ran the wires through the grommets? Assuming I have that correct, did you pull the wiring through the factory holes in the firewall or did you have to drill any new holes before pulling the wires through the splash shields? If you have any pics of your install, I'd love to see them.

Thanks!
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post #38 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-07-2017, 02:22 PM
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Sure thing, I was looking for pictures yesterday and struck out but I will have another look. I am sure I took some. Now that I think about it because of where I put my holes I dont think I actually had to drill the splash shields. But I do think I had to enlarge one on the drivers side. It's been a while now. Then I went to harbor freight and I got a rubber grommet assortment pack. I also ran my headlight wiring through the bottom of the radiator support where the inside is hollow so I did have to drill a small hole on either side of that. And added a grommet there too. But that way literally all of the wiring is hidden from view. I then used J clamps to secure the looms where needed. Been a while now and no problems at all!

I would also recommend getting weatherpac connectors in varying sizes like a couple 2-pin and a couple 4 pin. I also got like a 12pin. These are totally waterproof and easy to plug and unplug. Which is nice for working on stuff. My gauges used the 12 Pin, so I can completely unplug it to get it out of the way easily. And I used the other ones for things like the fog lights and other accessories and even the tag light. Makes it much easier to pull stuff off when you can just unplug it easily. And as I said they are waterproof so makes a solid connection. I use them for all of my motorcycle builds too. Never had one let me down.


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1966 Fastback A-code - Finally Painted

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post #39 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-08-2017, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
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Made in the USA!

-Tom
1968 Mustang Fastback
2015 Ford F150 FX4
2006 Mitsubishi Evolution IX
2002 Chrysler 300M Special

SchnorrCS: when people find out how into these cars I am, all the sudden they have/had one just like mine, but it was purple and had a hemi, and was a Shelby.
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post #40 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-09-2017, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanSterling966 View Post
MY honest recommendation as you wait for delivery is to purchase some nice braided split style loom material. And section of a portion of your house where you have enough floor space to lay it out once it comes in. Then lay it out on the floor in the same orientation that you want it to go in the car. What I did was to replace the small zip ties they use to hold each loom with a wrap or two of harness tape and then cover them in the braided sleeve. What I found was that this made the wiring much easier to pull through grommets etc because all the little zip tie nubs didn't get caught.
This is the route I was planning on going myself. Watched a video where they covered the wire bundle in 3M electrical tape to create a modern-style harness, leaving gaps where the wires needed to be separated and forked away from the main body.

Considering this myself, especially after reading testimony from other installers. The vid's here if you'd like to watch it yourself:



-Tom
1968 Mustang Fastback
2015 Ford F150 FX4
2006 Mitsubishi Evolution IX
2002 Chrysler 300M Special

SchnorrCS: when people find out how into these cars I am, all the sudden they have/had one just like mine, but it was purple and had a hemi, and was a Shelby.
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post #41 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-09-2017, 11:54 AM
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This is the route I was planning on going myself. Watched a video where they covered the wire bundle in 3M electrical tape to create a modern-style harness, leaving gaps where the wires needed to be separated and forked away from the main body.

Considering this myself, especially after reading testimony from other installers. The vid's here if you'd like to watch it yourself:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8EBJxH4NUD0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-fwktutdLN4
Thanks for posting the videos.
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post #42 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 02:52 PM
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I've done both Painless and AAW on seperate vehicles. While I like the AAW fit and materials slightly better, one very nice thing about Painless is that the wires are color coded identically to the original Ford harness, eg., red with green stripe, in addition to having the circuit description label on them as well. The AAW wire coloring does not match OEM Ford wiring at all and their label printing is bit low budget in comparison to whatever Painless is using.
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post #43 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
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Interesting, that's a great "pro" for the Painless kit.

I'm starting stripping the old harness out next week (installing a tankless water heater, softener, carbon filter, and pressure tank this weekend... keeping SWMBO happy)

Any tips on OEM harness removal, or just get it out by any means necessary?

-Tom
1968 Mustang Fastback
2015 Ford F150 FX4
2006 Mitsubishi Evolution IX
2002 Chrysler 300M Special

SchnorrCS: when people find out how into these cars I am, all the sudden they have/had one just like mine, but it was purple and had a hemi, and was a Shelby.
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post #44 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 12:52 PM
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With a little care the OEM harness can be almost completely removed without cutting anything, I had a hacked up rear section from a PO that I just snipped but the balance of the OEM harness came out without cutting from what I remember (and the rear section could have as well). Mine sparked back through the column one day and that was the end of her, it was removed with a little anger and the AAW went in over the next ..well waaayyy too long.
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post #45 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-19-2017, 09:37 PM
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I am a little late to the thread, but I am finishing the install of the AAW kit on my 66. In my opinion it is an awesome kit and the perfect option for a restomod. I would also highly recommend wrapping the kit and taking your time planning the routing (and removal of non-needed circuits). I used the Painless Classic Braid, but alot of people like the cheaper Techflex.. either should do the job. I just liked the Classic Braid because you can't see the wires through it (which is what the Techflex looked like in alot of the pics I saw). Basically the routing and wrapping are 1000x harder once the kit is installed, so take your time and get it right the first time. I have some additional info and links in a writeup I did here..

American Autowire Rewiring

James

66 Fastback - 302, C4, 8" w/ 3.80 posi, Granada Discs
06 Mustang GT - Satin Silver, 5 spd, JLT Intake, Flowmaster, 3.73, Bassani X-Pipe, UDP - SOLD
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Last edited by donovanjamesl; 02-19-2017 at 09:40 PM.
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