Need input on my Power Steering/Rack and Pinion Fiasco - Vintage Mustang Forums

 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
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Need input on my Power Steering/Rack and Pinion Fiasco

Alright I've officially hit a wall on my 67. My current problem is with the steering. We all know the issues with these cars so I'm trying to figure out what my next move is. This time I tried to update my PS with a late model Pump because manual steering is way too heavy on 8.5" tires and my bad shoulder. After hooking it up I found that the car was trying to steer itself. Slightest bit of input and the ram takes over sending the car all over the place. I know the fox body Pump is a little higher in pressure so I put a Heidts Regulator in as well. Has anyone had any success with this conversion? I'm not sure what to do at this point. I really don't want to throw the old Pump in because it never fails to blow Type F all over the damn place. What's inew the car now is a quick ratio flaming river box, ram, rebuilt control valve, drop mount for the ram, AGR 5.0 Pump and all new arms, etc. After dumping massive amounts of money in the PS I'm reluctant to drop any more into it if I can't find a simple solution. I really can't afford a rack especially being a long column car but it's starting to look like I don't have an option so my second question is what experiences have people had with rack and pinion? The car is set up in an autocross/pro touring format. Brief summary is 330hp 289, lowered 3.5" up front and 2" in the rear with global west coilovers 215/55r16 in front and 255/50 in the rear. Car weighs in at about 2600lbs. So she's not really a straight line or a Sunday cruiser. So for my set up would I be better off with a manual or power rack? I've never driven one with either so I'm trying to figure out how heavy the steering would be without the power assist. Between my bad shoulder and the fact that I drive it like I stole it im concerned that manual would be too difficult when it comes to throwing the car around like an idiot lol. Any imput you guys have when it comes to PS or R&P would be appreciated cause I'm lost at this point....
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017, 04:20 PM Thread Starter
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This is the late model pump and regulator I'm currently running. The pump is obnoxiously loud and for some reason the type F likes to turn into a frothy mess under pressure. It's all brand new so I'm not sure what's wrong here
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017, 08:59 PM
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The froth means the fluid is being aerated. That can be from cavitation in the pump that sucked in a bunch of air. That will make it very noisy.

Bart

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017, 11:53 PM
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You can reduce the pressure of the steering pump by cutting the spring in it a bit.
Unscrew the pump output and pull out the "piston" and spring.

Guts will look like this
ImageUploadedByAG Free1488171141.449697.jpg
Cut the spring down to about 1 7/16" in length and it will cut pressure quite a bit, but not to where you don't feel a good amount of assist.

I did this on my Cobra replica and it helped a lot.




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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-02-2017, 01:39 AM
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I had my hoses swapped one time and the steering wheel would spin back and forth like that.

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-02-2017, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eldog View Post
I had my hoses swapped one time and the steering wheel would spin back and forth like that.
What I was thinking.



"A good friend will help you move. A great friend will help you move a dead body"

1965 A-Code Fastback
Built, September 14, 1964 (San Jose)
Viper red, White/red interior
TCP R&P, G Bar rear 4 link/w shockwaves
Global West Upper/Lower/Strut Rods
Ride-Tech Air ride
4 wheel Cobra disc brakes/Hydroboost
363 Stroker/Paxton Supercharger
Mass-Flo EFI
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-06-2017, 01:14 PM
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You should drop a PM to GT289. He's very knowledgeable on this. He's said Shelby or somebody used a larger pulley on the pump to slow it down but as I recall him saying it I a rare item. I by he said there's a MOPAR power steering pump pulley with the same size but the shaft ID just needs to be opened up a little. I've read a long time ago about putting a shunt valve between the pressure and return line to kill some pressure. I'm not advising that, just repeating it. I think I'd adjust the spring pressure first like Dan Babb suggested.

Tom

I'm not a complete idiot, pieces are missing.
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