Wiring headache - 65 with a 66 ammeter - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-13-2017, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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Wiring headache - 65 with a 66 ammeter

OK - I have a 65 coupe, and I have made a LOT of changes based on different articles and write-ups and I am struggling down the home stretch.
So here is what I have done:

Single wire alternator set up using the NPD kit on a later model alternator, in doing this I eliminated the original voltage regulator and wiring - I did both of these following James W's write up on his site.

Removed the original sweep style 65 I/P, Installing a 66 I/P with 5 gauge set up, using digital CVU and a dedicated ground harness for the gauges. I also followed the James W write up for this as well

Here is where I am stuck:
Changing the wiring to go from the charge light in the 65 cluster to the ammeter in the 66 cluster. In James W write up on the cluster swap, he talks about running a wire from the BAT post of the alternator and the battery side of the solenoid to the two posts of the ammeter. Theoretically this makes sense - but I have a problem, there are no posts on the ammeter.

What am I missing? Do I have the wrong cluster? Wrong ammeter? Missing parts?
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1965 Coupe - a real work in process
End result should be: Carbureted late model 302 roller with B303 cam and ported/polished E7 heads, T5 - World Class, Granada Front Discs, All new front suspension with UCA Drop and opentracker roller perches, 1" drop front and rear, 8.8 Explorer rear end (3.73, posi, discs), 1 1/8" sway bar, Mustang Steve adj clutch cable and power brakes, adjustable strut rods....and we will see what else I find along the way!

Last edited by Mako; 05-13-2017 at 09:50 PM. Reason: forgot images!
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-13-2017, 10:55 PM
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Have a look at this wiring diagram for Painless, page 23, it has pictures of the back of the I/P.
https://www.cjponyparts.com/skin/fro...all_wh6466.pdf

It looks like your gauge is missing the posts.

I have a spare one I can send you if you want, I can take pics tomorrow.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-13-2017, 11:02 PM
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That's a 65 style ammeter with the inductive loop. There is supposed to be a wire that goes through the hoop on the ammeter, and the ammeter picks up the signal from the wire.
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I've started a blog about my car and adventures: http://65mustangfun.blogspot.com/

1965 Fastback, 289, Toploader 4 Speed, owned by me since June 1980. Originally a C-code with a C-4. 5R09C16****

Last edited by LeeFred; 05-13-2017 at 11:10 PM.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-13-2017, 11:08 PM Thread Starter
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bd8134 - pics would be great, looking at the pics in the painless manual, I see what you mean about missing posts, but how can they be missing and what would the be attached to, really strange. If you look at the first image I put in the post you can see the screws coming through the housing and holding the gauge in place. Is this a different style gauge?

you have a spare gauge? What would you want for it?

Mako


1965 Coupe - a real work in process
End result should be: Carbureted late model 302 roller with B303 cam and ported/polished E7 heads, T5 - World Class, Granada Front Discs, All new front suspension with UCA Drop and opentracker roller perches, 1" drop front and rear, 8.8 Explorer rear end (3.73, posi, discs), 1 1/8" sway bar, Mustang Steve adj clutch cable and power brakes, adjustable strut rods....and we will see what else I find along the way!
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 06:56 AM
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LeeFred gave you the right answer. You have an amp gauge that was used on the 65 cars with the 5 gauge cluster. The wire simply goes through the loop.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
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Lee Fred and RickD - thanks!

Is it as simple as connecting the Red and Yellow wires and running the wire through the loop on the back of the gauge?
Any chance anyone has a pick of what it should look like with the coiled wire?

Mako


1965 Coupe - a real work in process
End result should be: Carbureted late model 302 roller with B303 cam and ported/polished E7 heads, T5 - World Class, Granada Front Discs, All new front suspension with UCA Drop and opentracker roller perches, 1" drop front and rear, 8.8 Explorer rear end (3.73, posi, discs), 1 1/8" sway bar, Mustang Steve adj clutch cable and power brakes, adjustable strut rods....and we will see what else I find along the way!
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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LeeFred - doing some further digging, it looks like circuit 37 should run through the loop, but since this I/P is not original to the car, circuit 37 is not readily available to run through the loop.

Would I be better to find ckt 37 and extend it through the loop, or use the two wires that I have run from the BAT post of the alternator and the battery side of the solenoid and just run them together and through the loop? The trouble I have with the two wires I added is that I am basically running a circuit in parallel to the heavy gauge wire that already runs from the alternator BAT terminal to the battery side of the solenoid.

Mako


1965 Coupe - a real work in process
End result should be: Carbureted late model 302 roller with B303 cam and ported/polished E7 heads, T5 - World Class, Granada Front Discs, All new front suspension with UCA Drop and opentracker roller perches, 1" drop front and rear, 8.8 Explorer rear end (3.73, posi, discs), 1 1/8" sway bar, Mustang Steve adj clutch cable and power brakes, adjustable strut rods....and we will see what else I find along the way!
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-14-2017, 11:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mako View Post
LeeFred - doing some further digging, it looks like circuit 37 should run through the loop, but since this I/P is not original to the car, circuit 37 is not readily available to run through the loop.

Would I be better to find ckt 37 and extend it through the loop, or use the two wires that I have run from the BAT post of the alternator and the battery side of the solenoid and just run them together and through the loop? The trouble I have with the two wires I added is that I am basically running a circuit in parallel to the heavy gauge wire that already runs from the alternator BAT terminal to the battery side of the solenoid.
There are other folks on here that are more qualified to answer those questions than me. I don't have a wiring diagram for the 65 gauge cluster that shows how to properly wire the 65 ammeter. I have a 66 ammeter in my 65 now, but I had it converted to a voltmeter by Rocketman.



I've started a blog about my car and adventures: http://65mustangfun.blogspot.com/

1965 Fastback, 289, Toploader 4 Speed, owned by me since June 1980. Originally a C-code with a C-4. 5R09C16****
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