Top shelf stuff. I've got the bearing mod in the pedal support. There is no side to side play and very smooth.
As far as Steve...well...he's ok for an aggie.
I had MS do my pedal hanger with roller bearings. Works fantastic. Sorry I can't comment on his cable set up as I'm running a 4 speed Toploader and mechanical linkage with rod ends on everything. But If I did run a T5 with cable, his would be the only kit I would consider. He copies the geometry of Ford's quadrant which has a much more linear operation then other kits making for a much smoother and easier operation.
I installed it (65 coupe) both clutch cable and pwr brake mod- Pretty easy- can't comment on how it feels since I have no transmission- Also I already bought the roller conversion from NPD so I used that instead of his roller conversion- but it works either way. One thing not on the website: you must clearance (bend or beat) the bottom of the cowl about 1/4 in- not a big deal, but you should know (in my case I had to clearance a brand new cowl- kinda scary) but ok. Now if it was a weak rusty cowl.....I don't think it would work (without makeing a big leak)
I'm about to install my cable setup this week. i have a hydraulic kit for my 68, but it is nearly impossible to mount the backing plate under the dash due to the steering column mounting flange and the speedometer cable grommet. Any suggestions about the cowl banging?
I tried the cable setup and had issues with a hard pedal. The firewall was flexing alot when I would press on the pedal. It took nearly both feet to get the pedal depressed. I had upgraded to a king cobra clutch & pressure plate which was probably alot of my issues. I ended up going hydraulic and very happy with the setup.
I have a complete setup from him that I can sell you, I converted to hydraulic just because of the tight fit of my headers. I ran it for 2 years with no issues. If it wasnt for my headers being right in the way I would have kept his setup.
I know the power brake conversion has a firewall strengthening plate- so if you go that route that should take care of firewall flex. As far as cowl banging- mine is still out so I marked it and used an airhammer with a hammer bit in it- if installed I would use a small jack and a stick of wood- jack up (you only make a small dent or crease where the cable runs) You could use a hammer (don't know if you can get a swing under there though)IT shouldn't harm a good cowl- but again if its rusty/weak/leaking already..........beware
I've had one for 7 years. Quality design and product. Just be careful to route the cable away from headers or manifolds.
Like DrStang said, route the cable as described in the MS instructions. I thought I had a better plan and burned my cable to a crisp while waiting in bumper to bumper traffic trying to get in to the Mustang 45th anniversary show at Birmingham. I had to go the rest of the week without a clutch. Since re-routing the cable as per MS, I have had no problems. I also have his bearing conversion and power break conversion. Smooth clutch, but not quite as easy as my son's Cobra. Mustang Steve is a great vendor.
CarDomain.com is cool...check it out.
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Everything old but my pickup which is a
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