Can you give some detail on the mods to fit late model shocks?
The explorer u-bolt plate hase the EB1 style shock mount on it. Using a cresent wrench and a length of pipe I moved one of the shock tabs at the correct angle for the shock to line up with out binding. I cut the other shock tab off and so for now I am running a shock in single shear. Although single shear mounts are often done, it is not ideal so when I get my welder back from my friend I will be welding in the second shock tab in the correct position on. The upper mount was same as my stock shock.
Is it just the yoke or does the pumpkin itself hit anything? Do you think that that area of the tunnel could be "massaged" for more clearance?
How much tweaking did it take to get the shocks to fit?
I think just the yoke hits. There is a clean spot with all the slug and gunk removed from the tunnel right where the yoke is. I don't know if it could be massaged to add clearance I am just planning on lengthening one side and recentering the axle.
To get the shocks to fit I bolted them in the upper mount and bent the tab on the u-bolt plate until I could get a bolt through the tab and the shock. It took about 10 min. per side.
Is it just the yoke or does the pumpkin itself hit anything? Do you think that that area of the tunnel could be "massaged" for more clearance?
When I did it, I just "massaged" the tunnel to make room for the flange and driveshaft. I also used a fat aluminum driveshaft, which was more trouble than it is worth I think. Stick with the stock driveshaft and massage the tunnel and you'll get enough clearance.
Also, don't plan on lowering the rear more than an inch otherwise you will have to do more than massage the tunnel... possibly a nip and tuck :p.
[/quote]Also, don't plan on lowering the rear more than an inch otherwise you will have to do more than massage the tunnel... possibly a nip and tuck :p.[/quote]
My plan is to weld in (from the pass. compartment) a circle shaped piece of metal in the corner of the rear seat/tunnel. Probably a 3-4 inch piece. Then cutting out the portion of the tunnel it will hit from underneath.
Any thoughts or ideas on this?
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1966 Coupe
5.0L EFI / AOD
Restomod in the works
Uh oh, I wonder what I'm in for? I just paid through the nose for an 8.8 rear for my I6 '65 Mustang. I paid to have one done since I can't weld well enough to trust it not breaking. I did some measuring and found out '67 Mustang rear U bolts and spring seat/shock brackets bolt up no problem at all. The shock pad angle judging by eye looks to be the same as the '65 Mustang version with an 8" rear.
I guess I better check where all the bump stops will hit and test fit an old shock to see if my guess is going to work.
Thanks for posting pictures. I wish I could weld better!
Dean
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Every day driving a vintage Mustang is a great day.
My plan is to weld in (from the pass. compartment) a circle shaped piece of metal in the corner of the rear seat/tunnel. Probably a 3-4 inch piece. Then cutting out the portion of the tunnel it will hit from underneath.
Any thoughts or ideas on this?
If you don't lower it then it shouldn't hit. Mine only hits when a I hit a bump so a bumpstop is in order. I wouldn't massage the tunnel or nip and tuck unless you had to. Install it first and then see what needs to be done.
Uh oh, I wonder what I'm in for? I just paid through the nose for an 8.8 rear for my I6 '65 Mustang. I paid to have one done since I can't weld well enough to trust it not breaking. I did some measuring and found out '67 Mustang rear U bolts and spring seat/shock brackets bolt up no problem at all. The shock pad angle judging by eye looks to be the same as the '65 Mustang version with an 8" rear.
I guess I better check where all the bump stops will hit and test fit an old shock to see if my guess is going to work.
Thanks for posting pictures. I wish I could weld better!
Dean
Did you get it out of an explorer? The U-bolts and spring plate from my 67 didn't work on my explorer 8.8 because the axel diameter was at least 1/4" larger in diameter (3" diameter IIRC)
My 8.8 came from a '91 Mustang - I have a hunch they have smaller axle tubes. I had the guys weld on the Torino 9" axle ends to eliminate the C-clips as another poster had mentioned. I paid to have new tubes installed and I thought they were going to be 3" dia but it turns out to be more like 2.77" or so. Too big for the '65 U bolts but just right for the '67's.
I have heard that folks who've installed 9" rears in the '65s slotted the stock leaf spring/shock plates inorder to fit larger U bolts. Could the '67 shock plates be slotted to fit 3" U bolts?
Dean T
__________________
Every day driving a vintage Mustang is a great day.
The Explorer housing tubes are about 1/2" larger in diameter than the Mustang 8.8 housing. The Mustang 8.8 housing tube is about the same diameter as the 67-up Mustang 8" and 9" housings. They should be close enough that the early model U-bolts and mounting brackets should work. You really didn't need new tubes, but did you also have the builder weld the tubes at the center section? Who built he rear for you? How much was your total investment? I didn't think the Torino style ends would work on the small tube housings, but I never checked. I might look into going that direction and building a few. I have a couple of Explorer rears that I had shortened, but I got stuck on the shock mounting brackets. The Mustang bracket is too small, and the Explorer bracket used a different type of shock. I have a few Mustang 8.8s and several Turbo Coupe 8.8s that already have 3.55s or 3.73s in them.
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