Lower adjustable arm for 65/66?

66emberglow · 11-01-2006, 10:15 AM

65 V8 convertible. Not looking for radical tubular arms, but curious if I can eliminate the shims from the upper arm and use an adjustable lower arm like the 67/68 to control camber. Perhaps an aftermarket eccentric piece or something.

2bav8 · 11-01-2006, 11:41 AM

Yup,

Just bought a Vario-Camber Kit for my '66.
No longer use shims to do my alignments (when used along with adjustable strut rods).

They are available from Mustangs Plus, Mustang Depot etc and run about $90.

JSHarvey · 11-01-2006, 12:52 PM

Now I'm curious, I had asked earlier about an adjustable lower arm idea and people on this forum seemed to think it was a bad idea because you could end up with different length arms on each side.

(See: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/sh...t/1496285/hl//)

Don't these vario centric kits cause the same uneven length problem?

John Harvey

66coupe289 · 11-01-2006, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSHarvey

Now I'm curious, I had asked earlier about an adjustable lower arm idea and people on this forum seemed to think it was a bad idea because you could end up with different length arms on each side.

Don't these vario centric kits cause the same uneven length problem?

John Harvey

No John, because the length of the arm does not change, only the pivot location. That is no different than relocating the pivot location of the upper control arms via shims.

JSHarvey · 11-01-2006, 02:18 PM

Thank you!

66emberglow · 11-01-2006, 03:32 PM

Excellent. Thanks. Are you using the adjustable strut rods for caster alignments? I don't see the connection between them and the camber kit you pointed me to.

2bav8 · 11-01-2006, 03:38 PM

Emberglow,

Didn't mean to confuse ya with the adjustable strut rod photo, but yes I am using them to set the caster.
That gives me a shimless alignment.

66emberglow · 11-01-2006, 04:13 PM

I wonder what caster setting you end up with if you use the stock strut rod and the vario-camber kit adjusted for -1.5 camber

2bav8 · 11-01-2006, 05:17 PM

Going to be different for every car...

cheec2h · 11-02-2006, 06:29 AM

Not to hi-jack the thread but,

Did you still lower (Shelby drop) the UCA location, and did you use anything between the shock tower sheet metal and the control arm bolts?

I like the idea of not having to mess with the shims.

66emberglow - hope you don't mind my extra questions.

Thanks,

2bav8 · 11-02-2006, 01:07 PM

I bolded my Opentracker upper control arms straight to my shock tower, no shims, no nothing in between. Because I used Opentracker's upper arms I actually lowered the upper arms 1.75" instead of the 1" Shelby drop. His arms are designed for this while the factory arms can only do the 1" drop. Its pretty much overkill for street cars, but I push my car hard on the track.

On another performance oriented note, that also means I gained about 1/2" more clearance from the fenders as the upper arm is no longer being shimmed out from the shock tower. And that means more clearance for wider front tires

cheec2h · 11-03-2006, 06:27 AM

Thanks for info.

Huskinhano · 11-03-2006, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2bav8

I bolded my Opentracker upper control arms straight to my shock tower, no shims, no nothing in between. Because I used Opentracker's upper arms I actually lowered the upper arms 1.75" instead of the 1" Shelby drop. His arms are designed for this while the factory arms can only do the 1" drop. Its pretty much overkill for street cars, but I push my car hard on the track.

On another performance oriented note, that also means I gained about 1/2" more clearance from the fenders as the upper arm is no longer being shimmed out from the shock tower. And that means more clearance for wider front tires

Matt, IIRC, you originally lowered your arms 1". If my quick calculations serve me right, I'm guessing you have ~.500" between the new and old bolt holes? All working out OK? Just asking for future reference on my behalf since I'm going to lower my UCA's 1" and just wondering if down the road I decide to do something different.

2bav8 · 11-04-2006, 02:54 AM

Tom,

You are correct that the material between the 1" holes and the new ones are very close to each other.
I used a welder to close up the old holes and reenforce the shock towers. Personally, I would not trust the shock towers otherwise.

Wish Opentracker had started business about 5 years earlier... Could have avoided the extra set of holes and the hassle to fill them in, LOL