I started this 408w build March 2006 as a simple 351w based replacement for the 351w I already had in my 66. The 408w was to be a low compression 15lbs boost build.
Last April I was at the Columbus Ford Swap Meet (hanging out with fellow VMF'ers) and came across a pair of 2v open chamber 351c heads. They were recently used on a 351c but before that had been on someones clevor. It had already bee machined for a clevor mod, the coolant holes that had freeze plugs in them had holes drilled in them to go back to 351c cooling. The holes drilled on the intake side were plugged with a thick glob of RTV. It hat nice Stainless valves, rocker studs, and a high port exhaust plate already installed.
Here's a pic, next to a windsor head for comparisson:
At the same booth I picked up 351c swap headers for a 65/66 Mustang, used $200. Nearby at another booth was a new B&A Track Boss intake, that cost about double a new 302 intake.
Keeping with the low compression theme, the 2v open heads had a 76.2 cc combustion chamber giving me about 8.8:1 compression.
I liked the hydraulic roller cam in the previous 351w I built. And, since I paid almost $400 for those darm roller comversion lifters I figured I'd keep using them. I selected a roller cam and found that with the new 1.73 rocker arm ratio I would have a piston to valve clearance issue.
I seached every where and all I could find was the Isky piston notcher.
I notched my pistons in the 351w when I went with 2.02 intake valves. Back then I used a 2.08 valve I modified to grind into aluminum. But now I'm using 2.19 valves and had to cut a nice chunk out.
piston with new eye brow
I blew up my 351w in the car around Aug 2006 at the track. So, it ended up being my mock up block. I swapped out the 66 for the early 65 style motor mounts. Using these I lowered the engine 1" and back 1/2". This would come in handy when installing the headers. I test fit the heads on the block before the mounts swap and found all the pipes would run through the center link and/or engine crossmember. After lowering I still had to modify 5 of the 8 tubes.
The headers were designed for a 351c not a W. The heads sit and different angles between the two different blocks so the exhaust hangs differently. Especially noticable when I installed the #4 and #8 tubes which crossover to opposite collectors. They didn't line up with the rest of the header tubes. I had to add about 2" extension to the #4 and #8. The rest was "monster garage" massage, cut, paste, etc. I will need to make a new engine crossmember to clear the headers and oil pan which hit after the engine move. Here's a mock up shot of the headers
Changing the spark plugs would have been a pain. I shaved the shock towers back 3".
I'm still not done but want to be done by April so I can drive it again.
During the build I was searching for a tranny that could handle the 408 and replace the T5. Save this for another mod post.
Those tubular auto headers suck. They force the deletion of the cross member even on standard 351c install in the 65/6 chassis
$499 will get you a new set of Ford Power train headers that fit (at least they fit the 351c with 351c heads on it in my 65).
Other than that...I like the thought of a clevor with boost
Thanks for the info Nick. I didn't know they forced a crossmember delete in with the 351c. I did a test fit before moving the engine back and they fit with the xmember except after the tubes' 90 degree bend they ran into it. That was the reason for the 1" lowering, to clear it. It was moving the engine 1/2 back that put everything right smack in the middle of the xmember. The oil pan was hitting it too. I have another set of 351c conversion headers for 65/66 Mustang that didn't have the crossover pipes. they are a 6 piece header set, where the #3 and #4 are pre welded to the collector as well as the #7 and #8. I picked these up for around $200 used as well. I wasn't sure which would fit better, but tried both and found the Tubular Auto to maneuver better.
I was in the garage when John was test fitting his new Ford Powertrain headers onto his Cleveland a few years ago. I remember them being a one piece header and for sure knew they wouldn't fit with my application, believe me, I thought about it. There is no way to slide anything from the rear of the engine towards the front to mate the #1 primary to the #1 exhaust port on the head. The shock tower/motor mount gets in the way.
If I could go back I would have just spent the money on a 408 Cleveland like yours. The clevor was an after-thought during the build. Sort of a BOSS 302 dream build.
Here's what the tubular looked like on mine when I got it. No x-member
With all the moving around you've done I'm surprised you can get anything to fit at all that isn't 100% custom. Might be a fine little drag ride with the backward motion on the engine and the right suspension
I have another reason for moving the engine back, other than better weight distribution. When I mocked up my supercharger, the SC crank pulley lands right in the path of my electric fan. I didn't gain much but every little bit helps. Also, the water pump snout was a little less than 1/4" away from the fan motor. It didn't help for removing my accessory belt.
here's what I did to the oil pan to gain more clearance for a Xmember.
I cut a big letter H in the bottom of the pan, the center of the H is the rear corner of the sump. bent the pan inward a little, folded the sides in, welded the crap out of it. It doesn't leak. I did find out that the rear of the sump is where the pick up "picks up" from, the pan so obviously hits the pick up. I'll have to modify that too. I don't mind, this fabbing is fun.
Funny, I was typing this thinking about a Falcon xmember I picked up on ebay and the UPS guy knocked.
It mounts via the motor mount bolts rather the threaded nut-cert in the frame rail. Another Idea I picked up from John from way back. I might have to "stretch it" to get it to fit.
The weather was nice today, in the 60's. Two friends came over and managed our time well. Did a 1 3/4 shelby drop, relocated the upper ball joint, screw in lower ball joints, spherical bearings, and S&T strut rods. We welded in covers where I shaved the shock towers back. I removed the front seats an carpet, cut the trans hump out. We did a few other little things prepping to drop the engine and tranny in. A few nuts and bolts and some metal fabbing and I'll be able to do it.
The tranny is still floating, I bolted up most of a drive shaft safety loop but have it inside the car, but half a loop under the tranny keeping the tranny supported. Making progress, I'l take better pics in the daylight.
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