Rack&pinion - Page 2

JohnnyK · 11-08-2007, 12:12 AM

I agree.. I enjoy doing things, and not just because I'm cheap/poor.. :LOL: . I mean, if safety is a consideration, well then, but I don't imagine it would be. Anymore than aftermarket unit (Safety: assembly quality, not bumpsteer, etc, that would require some resarch on my part). But I think, from what i hear, a J-body is the way to go. Looking at summit catalogues and what not though, the U-joints for the column are pretty pricey, and you'd have to get power hoses made, and tie-rods, I'm not sure what the j-body has going on. I imagine it wouldn't be too difficult to take a tie rod that mounts there, and cut it, thread it, and make a sleeve that adapts to the stock mustang outer tie-rods, but again, I'm talking without having seen/tried it. But u-joints/rack/power hoses would seem to be the big cost investments.

68EFIvert · 11-08-2007, 01:07 AM

2late it sounds like if someone was going to do it you may be the man. I agree with you and using the J car rack. By using a hydraulic clutch and hipo manifolds you will eliminate a lot of the headaches I had to deal with. I don't think you would have problems with a taurus rack (clearance wise that is).

The Steeroids rack I am now using uses spherical rod ends for the inner tie rods mounted to a custom bracket connected to the rack. I would then use a tapered rod (like used on 4 link suspensions) for the tie rod sleeve. Speedwaymotors.com has a good selection. Order one of their race catalogs and you can pick up some parts for very reasonable prices. You should be able to duplicate the brackets used to mount it to the frame fairly easily. They don't seem to be that difficult or complicated. Let me know if you need a picture of my setup. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress. :thumbup:

Speedwaymotors.com

JohnnyK · 11-08-2007, 01:32 AM

I'm not 2late, but I could use a picture or two!

So your clearance problems were mainly caused by long tubes and clutch linkages? I'm running tri-y's, which really don't seem to take up much space, and I plan on running hydraulic clutch..

68EFIvert · 11-08-2007, 09:33 AM

I had clearance problems with one header tube and the original clutch cable had to be routed where the steering shaft was. The car is still at the body shop and I will get a picture as soon as I can.

2late · 11-08-2007, 12:25 PM

Johnny, Things like those U-joints and shafts are grossly over priced from the auto performance shops and having been in the machinery rebuilding business I did'nt even think of going to them for parts because these are off-the shelf items that can be bought for a fraction of the price those guys charge, check out places like Surplus Center and you will see what I mean. Hoses are usually not too bad, again if you go to an equipment repair shop and show them what you need they are usually much cheaper than an auto parts place. I am lucky in this respect because I can make my own hoses and I have a lathe and mill to make other parts. Actually on those U-joint shafts it is usually just a matter of buying shafts the right diameter with the proper U-joints and then cut to size, nothing in the way of special tools needed. However fitting it to the steering shaft and modifying the column/installing a support bearing could be a bit tricky without the right tools but not necessarily too difficult. That's what this is all about, I want to trade info and make a project out of this and it may be surprising what can be accomplished.

JohnnyK · 11-08-2007, 01:57 PM

Lathe I have, so I'm not worried about that. Milling machine as well, but I'm banned from it..

. If I could get my hands on a cheap j-body rack and I could see what all the hoopla is about, unfortunately, seem to be hard to come by here for a decent price (Wreckers would probably want $100+ for them, used and rusty from Canadian winters). My main concern, besides the shaft to column, is the tie rods.. I'm not familiar with center take off racks at all. Taurus, I could see how you could tap new outer rods to fit the threads, or make a couple or something, but I'm unsure of these center take offs. I imagine you'd just have some sort of big steel 'adapter' in the middle, but then what? Just a long tie rod to go to the spindle? Or I suppose there would be an 'inner' tie rod that threads to the outer for the adjustment. Once again, never seen a center take off rack up close.

I'm also thinking that if I make one, it would bolt to the crossmember holes, but once I have it in place, I'm going to bolt some brackets to the original frame steering nuts and attach it to the R&P support, as I don't exactly trust two bolts (And who knows the state of those nuts in the frame) holding my steering onto the car.

2late · 11-08-2007, 05:28 PM

It's my understanding the center take-off type has a plate attached to it that can easily be replaced with whatever is needed and attachment holes could be bored in this plate just about anywhere they would be needed. Have you priced a rebuilt unit from an auto parts? They are not expensive at all here, around $100 so I think I will pick one up and see what needs to be done to it.

JohnnyK · 11-08-2007, 05:47 PM

Yeah, and if Canada adjusted their prices that would be about $85 here.. however, thats not so..

I think it would be at least $250-$300 here. I'll call tomorrow and find out I suppose.

68EFIvert · 11-09-2007, 09:54 AM

I thought about it and I think the Steeroids instructions will probably give you a better idea of the brackets than an installed bracket so here you go.
Steeroids Insall Instructions with pictures.

2late · 11-09-2007, 12:06 PM

Hey, that answers a lot of questions for me and the R&P unit I ordered from Auto Zone should be here today. I will probably scrap the idea of using the Taurus set-up but when I get the "j" car unit here I will decide then. The guys at Auto Zone said it would be no problem returning it if I decided not to use that one as long as I do not make any modifications on it but I can make up my mind when I put it in place and get some measurements.

JohnnyK · 11-09-2007, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2late

Hey, that answers a lot of questions for me and the R&P unit I ordered from Auto Zone should be here today

My, you're really a mover and a shaker, aren't you?

Let us know how it turns out! I've seen a lot of home made R&P threads. This is the first one that seems to be going somewhere. I'm quite excited about this.. :LOL:

2late · 11-09-2007, 02:24 PM

I intend to drop the original steering this weekend and try to establish some working points and I guess I need to figure out how to post pics here.

68EFIvert · 11-09-2007, 03:51 PM

I have an accout with photobucket.com and just link to them.

JohnnyK · 11-09-2007, 04:45 PM

Even I can just host some for your temporarily (Couple months at least I would think) if you need space. Going to phone some stores now and see what their R&P prices are.

edit: Yup, I nailed that one.. $250-$300 with the core charge.. bummer

What one did you end up going with? What year, etc? I was looking at 85 Sunbird.. not even sure if that is a correct year.. Asked about the 2.5 lock to lock one.. But it also comes with one with a splined input, and one with a flat sided input?

2late · 11-09-2007, 08:13 PM

Hope the link works, I did'nt get a chance to pick it up yet, probably Monday now but this is the one I ordered. About that input shaft-some are splined and some have flats? Splines would be harder to deal with.

http://www.autozone.com/R,APP303546/...ductDetail.htm

Ok it works if you copy/paste the whole thing. Please bear with me until I get the hang of things here.