Converting a SBF car to a FE big-block is cost prohibitive, but without knowing your specific goals and $$$, it's hard to make a recommendation. A 351W is probably the cheapest easiest way to make a lot of streetable power, I see you're considering a blown 289 so I assume you want a LOT of power? I'm slowly coming up with a 350+hp carb'ed 5.0 combo for my car with those same goals in mind but it sounds like you want more than that
The squirrels in my head have spoken.
Cobra 5.0L & AOD swap, here we come.
hmm I didn't realize going to an FE was that much work.
I'm kind of torn between 2 really since I now know that FE is not an easy swap. A fuel injected stroked 351. I'm not sure of the advantages and disadvantages of 393 vs 408 vs 427 though.
....or a supercharged 289. With the 289 I still might do fuel injection and 331 stroker.
But I def. want some pretty big numbers but I want to do it in the most streetable way possible. $$$ is an issue but I am willing to save up to get it right the first time.
Do you know if fuel injection on a 351 is much different than a f.i. setup on a 289 or is it pretty much the same?
Option 2 will have a lot less power than option 1 (once there is a supercharger or stroker kit)
I personally don't see a big block ever being worth it in the mustangs other than for the sound (drools thinking about the sounds =) haha)
I personally like N/A power so my recommendation would be to go with the 351 put some nice heads/cam/and intake and check into EFI for it. I think it will have great daily drivable power. It won't have the reliability issues of a boosted engine or a stroker.
Your choices all depend on your ultimate goal. Each option has its pros and cons. If you are desiring a very high hp/tq combo you may lose a little bit of street drivablility. If you go with a FE, consider conversion cost and handling issues (weight reduction may be needed to get your desired handling). You keep mentioning AOD. If that is required, I would try to keep power levels reasonable otherwise you will need to spend alot to get a high end aod that will handle the power. What about your rear end? What about your brakes? I would consider the complete drivetrain before making a decision. Provide us will more details of your goals. There are alot of smart people here that can help you with your decision.
White 1973 (351C stroked to 408, 4V, FMX) convertible with blue deluxe interior AC and power windows.
Location: Lombard, IL (a western suburb of Chicago)
You need to better define your goals & budget. FE's can be expensive but, IMHO, it's all up to you; what do YOU want to do with your car? Don't let a bunch of discussion board particpants tell you what you want. Figure that out for yourself & let the discussion board help you reach those goals.
I'm glad that I didn't ask for opinions when I switched from a 289 auto to stroked 428 FE with a TKO 5-speed. :thumbup:
BTW: Is my sig pic showing up for everyone? It does for me sporadically.
1968 C code fastback. 463 cu. in. stroked FE, Tremec TKO, 3.70 N-case detroit locker
Visibility Group, 8k Factory Tachometer, Bench Seat
333 with 555 rwhp and 486 rwtq, EFI, Vortech V2 trim blower with 11.5 lbs of boost, H2O/Meth Injection, T56 6 speed, JMC clutch, Steeroids rack, Ron Morris Front and TCP G-bar Rear Coilovers, Cobra brakes, Boyd Magneato wheels. Basically a money pit. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zrqA9...ature=related#
Unless you're building a correct show car, go with the EFI for any choice.
My opinion is that even a small block Mustang is too nose heavy. Your ultimate power goal will determine what you need, but I'd stay with a 5.0 block, and stroke it if you must have more displacement. Subtract the iron heads for aluminum ones for better weight bias.
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now sandblasted and DP40'd since this pic was taken.
a two legged hole shot, even with a munged up carb and snow tires...
Right now the car has just been converted to disc brakes all around. Not an expensive setup though. The fronts came off a 68 Cougar I believe and the rear has a Versailles conversion.
I will build this one the same way I built my 96. From the rear to the front. I went built rear, built trans, and the motor was next but the unthinkable happened before it got that far.
The rear is a stock 8" but I will build that before I throw a lot of power at it.
I really want an AOD for highway driving b/c I love to show the car and will be doing some traveling for shows and I want the benefit of lower rear gears. I don't mind spending some $$$ for a built one.
Goals wise I am looking for the driveablity, of course, and a 12, maybe high 11 sec. car, but I still want it to handle decent so FE is out of the equation now. Would a 351 put to much weight over the front to make it worth the power gain?
Suspension wise I am looking at a Mustang II front end and the Heidt's bolt on rear coil over setup but I still want to do some research on those 2 to hear how people like them and complaints. Also going to get TCP's subframe connector kit.
If you want the car to handle don't bother with the MII conversion. It's a popular conversion from the 80's when the oem parts were dirt cheap and street rodders were updating suspensions from the 30's and 40's. Their popularity carried over to the classic Mustang as a way to eliminate the shock towers and make room for a huge engine. If you stay with a 289 or 351 the shock towers are not a clearence issue. When comparing stock to stock, the MII geometry offers some improvement over the older suspension but it also comes with it's own set of problems, and unlike the classic suspension the only thing you can do to make the MII handle better is add stiffer springs and a bigger sway bar. For what an MII conversion costs you can update the oem '68 suspension with lowered tubular UCA's (i.e. TCP or Global West), roller perches, adj strut rods, and firmer springs. The combo is time proven and will out corner an MII by a big margin.
As far as your engine choices, a 351W with good heads can get you into the 12's without the need for a stroker but it would take a well matched set of parts combined with the right gearing and traction improvements. A very driveable 12 sec combo would be the 351W with a relatively mild cam, AFR 205 heads, and a centrifical blower like a Paxton or Vortech. If you're worried about the weight issue a 351 only adds about 100 lbs over a 289/302, and if you're swapping out a stock iron head/intake 289 for an alum head/intake 351 the weight difference isn't worth considering.
"It's not having what you want, it's wanting what you've got!" - Sheryl Crow
If you build the 289 you will wish you had bigger, the 302 is not really gonna be that much of a difference than the 289, as for a 351w more torque direct replacement and not too expensive, now if power is key and money is no object then go FE all the way, stroke it build it for low compression and forced induction! ! , then you will need tubs and slicks though.
[color:red]Suspension wise I am looking at a Mustang II front end and the Heidt's bolt on rear coil over setup but I still want to do some research on those 2 to hear how people like them and complaints. Also going to get TCP's subframe
for front suspension i rebuilt mine, new upper and lower control arms, roller spring perches ner 620 lb springs kyb shocks bump steer kit(baer tracker), poly bushings and shelby drop , still manual steering but it is easier to drive than my 97 vert!
i just drove it today about 20 miles, back country roads and it was great i can 1 had drive it is not a fight like before,
as for the rear i have global west springs poly bushings and kyb shocks (need traction bars though )
note i changed from 4 wheel manual drums to 4 wheel power disc brakes and it made a great improvement in stopping
basically the entire suspension is brand new and drives like it
Thanks for the info on the MII conversion.
Is the Hiedts rear coilover any good for handling? Hiedts
I had also thought about something else but I have never seen much info about it. There is probably a reason for that but I am curious. The Weiand 174 blower. Weiand
From what I understand this type of blower shines in building boost very quickly but you give it away up top.
After a little searching I found a company that makes the wiring harness for a 351 efi swap and also found out a 5.0 computer with a chip will work fine. This raises my next question though. With a built 351 should I be looking at upgrading the fuel system as well?
ooh duh i also added an 1-1/8 front sway bar
my complete rear end stuff was
even with traction bars (weld in type) only add 150.00
i had a problem before when i would accelerate it would sway left, and when i let off the gas it would sway right, it was the old weak springs and worn out bushings , none were gone just soft and too flexible!
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