I've asked this before, if your petronix is no taller than the stock dist. the straight bar will fit with a 14in air cleaner. Try laying something across the inside top of the fenders and see if it touches.
A straight bar will be stiffer/stronger than a curved bar.
"If it ain't broke, I haven't fixed it yet"
1967 Coupe 333ci CandyApple Red w/red int., AOD, 9" 3.50:1, Front PDB
'09 Warriors In Pink V6 w/glass roof - wife's Stang
Your 65 motor mounts may be lower than mine so you might not have the same experience I had, but here is my experience. I have the Pertronix Plug and Play (male cap) dizzy on my 66, and the straight bar slightly rubbed the top of several of the spark plug wires pluged into the dizzy. The distributor is a little taller than stock with the male terminals and I was using the Ford Racing 9mm wires, so you *may* not have this problem if you have the standard female terminals and stock-type 7 or 8mm wires. I have since removed the bar. Both the straight and curved bar (which I also tried) rubbed against the A/C dogleg bracket , too, but that's another story.
Since then, I have dropped the engine 1/2" with a Ron Morris lowered engine mount set, so I could have used either bar with my K&N 14" filter. The straight bar is stronger, so I'd suggest using (assuming you are adding the MC bar to brace the shock towers) it unless you have air cleaner, dizzy or bracket issues like I had.
Currently enjoying my grandfather-in-law's 1966 A-code coupe. I am the second owner. Ü
I also have the male cap and 9mm Ford racing wires. I put a broom handle between the fender aprons at the notch and it just barely touched the top of the spark plug wires. I am '66 style engine mounts, they set a little lower than the '64's did.
The only reasons to go with a curved bar is if you have interference with the dizzy or you have an oval air cleaner. Otherwise, go straight. If you go straight, splurge on one that is a removeable one. Makes it easy to work on the dizzy, when needed.
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