This might be a little late but I just put an 8.8" in my 66 Mustang tonight.
I used a rear end out of a 98 Explorer - 373, trac-loc, 31 splines, rear discs.
It is a bit of work: cut off *all* existing mounts, shorten long axle down to a short axle length, add leaf spring brackets, mod the spring perches, get new u-bolts, fab brake line mounts, and other stuff I forgot.
I added new axle bearings and seals, pinion bolt, cleaned up parking brake assembly, new hose assembly from axle to body, new calipers, pads and rotors.
From your favorite auto salvage yard you will need at least one Explorer rear end, one Explorer 'short' axle, calipers for cores (core charges are $50 ea) and something for the parking brake (I haven't figured this out yet). You will need to figure out how to connect your existing driveshaft to the 8.8" flange. I'm using a bone yard part off of a Mazda pickup (uses the same 8.8" rear).
The width is 1" narrower (56 9/16" vs. stock 57 5/8"). This works fine with my crown vic wheels on 235/60 15's but it is tight.
Good luck with your project.
rick
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searching for jazz and a little libations.
Maybe I missed this but what have some of you done for a driveshaft since the the 8.8 has that flat flange. custom shaft or shorten a late model shaft or convert the flange pinion to a standard pinion? I have a line on a fully built 5 lug 8.8 .
Maybe I missed this but what have some of you done for a driveshaft since the the 8.8 has that flat flange. custom shaft or shorten a late model shaft or convert the flange pinion to a standard pinion? I have a line on a fully built 5 lug 8.8 .
TIA
Bill
I was going to use an Inland Empire Driveline PY-8.8-1310 to use the original u-joints on my 65 driveshaft. However, I changed to an 06 GT flange since the 06 GT drive shaft I'm using has a CV joint on the back. I have a brand new (though installed and removed once) PY-8.8-1310 yoke - $30 including shipping if anyone needs it (cost $55 + shipping new).
__________________ Plain Jane 65 Coupe
284 CI, forged bottom end, 10.5:1, Eaton blower, 12 PSI, magic fuel
So, can I just remove the old mounts from the 8.8. Position it like the 8in I currently have and transfer everything over. Or will there be different angles with the 5.0 and AOD?
I'll try to do that. I won't start assembly until maybe late fall winter, so I'm sure I'll ask some of this again to make sure. I'll be removing an 8" but I have a 67.
I know Im just a h8tr, but Im with midlife here. Unless you are significantly hopping up your motor, your 8" is fine. That article says "weak 8 in" about a thousand times just to justify their swap. Is a 8in weaker than a 9in? of course..most everything is! Is it a time bomb? No.
Yes, a 8.8 is a great option in place of a 9 inch if you need the extra strength. Doesnt sound like you need it.
With the many 8in-axle rear disc swaps available now, even the 'you get rear discs!' excuse doesnt hold water anymore.
You could put on a ultrastang (for ex) rear disc kit on and off ten times over (for less money) for what you'll spend cutting off spring pads, welding on new perches, measuring, yada yada....and in the end, you'll have lost the ability to easily swap out rear ratios, to boot.
I know your heart is set on this, but I disagree with it. Just my opinion, now call me a h8tr
No, but it's definately worth it if you are like me where you have a 2.79 open 8", and it was $180 or so to buy a 3.55" trac lok 8.8 rear and with spring perches to weld onto it (Whereas a trak center for the 8" was about $400).
IMO it is only easier to swap ratios if you have another center section ready to go. Most people don't want to tie up money in two pumpkins. I only have around $200 in my 8.8. I was going to buy a driveshaft anyway. The stock 6cyl DS was not a good candidate for me.
I have a bit more money than $200, but thats including brand new SN95 rear discs.. but the actual 3.55 trak rear end was only $140 (Plus $50.. ouch... for the perches.)
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