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Old 06-02-2008, 09:11 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Hey gang, What's the consensus on the clutch return spring? I have a T5 with a Ford Performance clutch. I am sending the hanger and the pedals to MustangSteve to get the clutch pedal quadrant and the bearing kit installed. When I get it back will I need to install the spring or can I leave it off? It squeaks like an old screen door. I thought there was a thread on this a little while ago but I searched to no avail. The clutch works OK when cold but in traffic, when it gets warm, it starts to chatter. Not sure if that is an adjustment issue or...? It sure would be nice to have an easier clutch too...
Ideas?
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Old 06-02-2008, 09:28 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Jim, if you're talking about the heavy spring under the dash, and if your Ford Performance clutch is a diaphram type (I assume it is), then yes, you can leave it off.

I have a King Cobra clutch, T5, hydro actuation and no pedal spring and works great. Your shuddering has a lot of possible causes such as bad motor mounts, sloppy clutch linkage (if you have the equalizer bar) and leaky rear main seal, among others. My shuddering turned out to be excessive crankshaft end play.
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Old 06-03-2008, 02:11 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I recently posted the same question after a friend removed his. Removed mine and it feels better- more smoother and better feedback. It also took a little bit off the effort to depress the pedal but not as much as I hoped for. Mine is a 65 with centerforce clutch and original linkage.

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Old 06-03-2008, 11:02 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I removed my clutch assist/return spring and like the way it feels without it.

After you get your clutch/brake pedal hanger assembly back from Mustang Steve, why not rollerize the rest of the linkage?



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Old 06-03-2008, 11:11 AM   #5 (permalink)
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It is a clutch assist spring (for girls) to make the clutch easier to press. If you push the pedal down with all the linkage undone, that spring will slam the pedal to the floor just past 1/3 of the way down. We remove them from all of our cars, they have no use (for us ) and really beat up the bushings.
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Old 06-03-2008, 12:08 PM   #6 (permalink)
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OK, well I guess the spring is history.
After talking to Steve I am going to go with his cable conversion to replace the Modern Driveline cable setup I have now. It really did not work that well and was actually rubbing against the underside of the cowl at one time.
As for the shuddering it only does it when it is pretty warm such as stop and go traffic. Then it is awful. Once it cools down it is OK again. Will a rear main seal leak cause it to do that? The engine mounts are tight AFAIK.
Thanks everyone,
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Old 06-03-2008, 01:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Did your flywheel have the stepped dowl pins installed? Not using them to align the pressure plate will cause chatter.
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Old 06-03-2008, 08:54 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sigtauenus
Did your flywheel have the stepped dowl pins installed? Not using them to align the pressure plate will cause chatter.
I don't know. I didn't install it. Would that cause chatter hot or cold?
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Jim Smith
Atlanta, GA
1965 Coupe 5.0 GT40 Intake and Heads, 65MM TB, chipped, T5, Shelby drop, roller idler, subframe connectors, Magnaflows, Hurst shifter, MS clutch, BFGs on 15" TTDs, Roller perches, Bilsteins, 3.54 gears, LS, Needs everything else...
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Old 06-04-2008, 11:31 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Good question. I was test fitting the pressure plate to the flywheel a couple days ago before the dowels were installed, and I noticed that the alignment of the pressure plate can vary slightly due to bolt hole size allowing for some movement. I'd guess if there was an alignment issue, it would chatter all the time.
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