Modify Driver's seat base mount for more leg room - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-16-2009, 11:57 PM Thread Starter
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Modify Driver's seat base mount for more leg room

What methods have you guys come up with to get more leg room for the driver. I'm 6'2" and most of my height is above the waist, my legs aren't that long. Anyway, I can't straighten my legs while driving and now that I have a clutch, I feel like it's worse.

In my previous project, I set the driver's seat pedestal down about an inch and mounted it back about 3 inches. I was replacing the floor pans so I had to replace the seat pedestal base anyway. I have a set of seat extender brackets sold by Kenny Brown that I used on my 96 Mustang. Has anyone seen something like this for an early Mustang?
http://www.v8power.com/item--Kenny-B...-KBP20001.html

Anything easier than cutting out and moving the seat pedestal?

Jimmy Bost
'96 Mustang Cobra American Iron Road Racer
'65 255ci 2-bbl Hardtop (long story)

Last edited by Mystic_Cobra; 01-12-2010 at 11:26 PM.
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-17-2009, 06:59 AM
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Re: Modify Driver's seat base mount for more leg room

Here's a pretty good write-up for a home brew solution I found in cyberspace.
Here's page 1 and page 2 write up by fellow VMF'r John Bednorz
I have no experience with either method, just briefly read over them.
HTH

Dennis Harrelson
65 2+2, owned since '72
Lots of mods, now just another sad project hoping for resurrection.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-17-2009, 06:20 PM
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Re: Modify Driver's seat base mount for more leg room

I just got through doing that on some aftermarket seats that I installed in my 66. First I used the stock tracks from the Mustang and mounted them in the "normal" position under the new seats. There was no leg room...
Then I decided to move the tracks 2" forward under the seats so the seats would sit 2" farther back. Half of that is easy. Simply redrill the tracks for a new front bolt hole location. But in back, there needs to either be a new track piece added or a new hole drilled in the seat frame. The latter idea makes the seat cantilever out the back too far for my taste, so I cut up an extra seat track rail and welded it to the rear of the existing track. I made it so the added piece bolted to the original bolt hole in the seat frame. Worked well!
Other option that some will tell you about is to relocate the seat mount platofrm farther back. That is NOT a good idea since the front framerails of the car are tied to that structural component. (Being the vertical front edge of the seat platform. If you move it rearward, the frame rails have nothing but the sheetmetal floorboards to support them. They will move around mercilessly. Only do that if your car has very strong welded-in frame connectors under there.
Moving the seat tracks forward on the seat frame is much easier.

MustangSteve

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-17-2009, 09:22 PM
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Moving the tracks doesnt help much with the pinch between the seat and steering wheel. I cut the drivers side seat pan down 1" and have the tracks mounted back. Im using 92 GT seats upolstered to match my stock red pony interior. Its very comfortable seating but as useless as the rear seat is on a stock car, its completely useless with the seat moved.

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-19-2009, 09:12 AM
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Re: Modify Driver's seat base mount for more leg room

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Harrelson
Here's a pretty good write-up for a home brew solution I found in cyberspace.
Here's page 1 and page 2 write up by fellow VMF'r John Bednorz
I have no experience with either method, just briefly read over them.
HTH

I'm the guy that came up with this solution. I have done it on two cars and it works great.

John Bednorz

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-19-2009, 09:33 AM
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Re: Modify Driver's seat base mount for more leg room

Lower the seat pans.

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 06-19-2009, 10:10 AM
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I did it on my 65 and it helped a lot. I'm 6"3 and it was worth the effort!

1966 GT350 Replica, Red/white stripes, 427w Stroker, AFR 225's, Tremec TKO trans, 9" with 3.50's, CMC 6 piston BIG Brakes, TCP R&P, Etc, Etc.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-09-2010, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
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I will probably be replacing partial or complete floors on both sides, so I think I'll do the seat base mod.

What are our options for subframe connectors?

thanks!

Jimmy Bost
'96 Mustang Cobra American Iron Road Racer
'65 255ci 2-bbl Hardtop (long story)
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-09-2010, 12:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lightning View Post
Moving the tracks doesnt help much with the pinch between the seat and steering wheel. I cut the drivers side seat pan down 1" and have the tracks mounted back. Im using 92 GT seats upolstered to match my stock red pony interior. Its very comfortable seating but as useless as the rear seat is on a stock car, its completely useless with the seat moved.
back in the 70's i got "9" people including me in my 65 fastback with a 4 speed and we went to the drive-in movie for the one price car load special ,i think it was $1 and that was all tripped out especially for those in what is called the rear seat !
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-10-2010, 12:35 PM Thread Starter
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9 people?!? That's awesome.

I think I'll be pulling the rear seat and selling it with my front seats and then just putting a pair of nice new race-type buckets in the front. I have no need for a rear seat. There have never been seat belts in the back, anyway.
Anyone want to buy a set of green/white pony seats in very good condition?

Jimmy Bost
'96 Mustang Cobra American Iron Road Racer
'65 255ci 2-bbl Hardtop (long story)
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-11-2010, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68RCodeConv View Post
I'm the guy that came up with this solution. I have done it on two cars and it works great.
Modified and moved up the seat tracks in my 68 when I got the car in 1977. Works great!

My '64 1/2 vert. Ordered May '64. D code 4 speed, handling package, caspian blue, accent group, Ford blue manual top.

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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-11-2010, 11:01 AM
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Moving the seat bases is way to much work IMO, but if you need the head room I spose it's a must.


I'm 6'5" and 240# and all I really needed was leg room and because the 68 convertable has the benefit of more head room than a coupe or fastback.
I put modified 93 Mustang seats in it by extending the 93 tracks, which by the way have a couple of inches more travel than the 68 OE tracks. I used 1/4" x 1" crs for the tabs and extensions with new grade 8 bolts.
By alowing the seat to go back further it also goes down at a slight angle which will give you a bit more head space.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg seatrails010[1].jpg (60.2 KB, 139 views)
File Type: jpg seatrails007-1[1].jpg (50.5 KB, 121 views)
File Type: jpg seatrails008[1].jpg (50.1 KB, 119 views)
File Type: jpg PICT0001.jpg (89.5 KB, 112 views)

Modified 68 Mustang convertible, 331,AOD, MCA Red Grille Medallion, 2014 MCA Pinnacle Award Driven class
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Last edited by kechke; 01-11-2010 at 05:06 PM.
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-11-2010, 04:34 PM
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I'm running later model seats. I cut the seat riser completely out and reinforced the floor, including subframe connectors. This lowered my seat to a nice low profile position.

Bart
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 05:26 AM
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Hey, Kechke, When you installed the 93 seat and tracks, did they have the power unit? I have a 67 vert and will be using the 95 seats with power and was wondering how much head room you have. Thanks

Dirty Harry is a 1967 Mustang Convertible, 289 2v, automatic, soon to be 331 with Kenne Bell 2.2 Flowzilla Blowzilla, AODE. Next project is my Arizona 1966 Fastback...way down the line!

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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-14-2010, 10:08 AM
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We have a customer in a similiar situation. What we did on his Eleanor project was to lose the seat platform altogether, then we welded in the convertible under structure to add strength and then we may go to the Recaro racing seats because they hug the floors. Will post pics once the customer approves.

Dave
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