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Old 10-20-2009, 02:51 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Unisteer manual Rand P rant

OK, here it goes.

I ordered a Unisteer manual R and P from Summit. It comes with a rack mounted on a crossmember designed to replace the structural crossmember on my 66. They send 2 tie rod end sets-one for stock spindles and another for Granada spindles. Neither set mates in to the taper.

I have stock V-8 spindles. I contacted Unisteer. They send 2 more tie rod sets. One set is identical to what I have. The other set mates with the taper but the threaded stud is smaller than the stock tie rod ends. I install the set that mates. With 1/2" engagement of the tie rod end and rack inner shaft I am still several inches from the correct toe alignment.

Now, Unisteer is going to send me a differet set of inner rods. I am not sure how these install, yet.

I guess this rant is to let fellow VMF members know that they didn't get it right the first time for me. If your car is a daily driver you might reconsider starting the project until you are sure you have all the correct parts. I have been waiting about 4 weeks to complete the install. It is several days if not a week to receive more parts from them.

Other than this snafu, the install is straightforward and relatively simple.

I am curious if any other members have had similar issues with Unisteer.
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Old 10-20-2009, 04:03 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OCHOHILL View Post
I am curious if any other members have had similar issues with Unisteer.
Many issues here with Unisteer, depending on which version of their rack you got (early design v. late). Coming from Summit who knows which one you got. If you did a search here for unisteer, you could read about this stuff all day long!
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Old 10-20-2009, 04:27 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Mine's the power setup, but yes, I had similar problems. I had to send it back once for machining and new hard lines. I had to modify the crossmember some for clearance and to bolt it up.

I've said before that their kit has great potential, but they don't seem interested in fixing it beyond where it is. I presume it's because they have so many units made up already. Dunno.

Now that it's in and working, I can't complain about the end result. Looks good and works well. It was just soooo much harder to get in than it needed to be.
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Old 10-20-2009, 06:31 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Wow, what a way to conduct business. If it were me, I would also insist on part numbers when you get the tie rod straightened out so that you don't have to go through this again in the future, if you ever need to service a tie rod.
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Old 11-03-2009, 12:05 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Update on my manual R and P steering install from Unisteer.

Well, it seems my rack came with the wrong inner tie rods. They sent me longer rods last week and out of nowhere the correct outer rods arrived yesterday. I had to cut the driver side outer and inner a little shorter to get close to the proper toe in.

There is 4.5 turns from lock to lock. The rack stops about 3/16" short of hitting the bump stops on the strut rod. There will be a small loss of turning radius. I am not sure how much yet because the car is not road ready yet. The install of the rack was straight forward but the rest was a little tedious only because the right parts didn't come in the first place. All in all I am satisfied because the unit is still considerably cheaper than the others.

This is the first time I had steering with the engine in place. Now, my tires hit the front on the fenders. Solution completed, problem found. I have 1" lowering springs on a 1" shelby drop with Wilwood discs on 8" wheels with 4.5" offset. The front sheet metal is off the car. I hope the valance pulls the fenders out a little or some fender rolling is in order. Bad luck or poor planning?
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Old 11-03-2009, 12:31 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OCHOHILL View Post
...Now, my tires hit the front on the fenders...with Wilwood discs on 8" wheels with 4.5" offset. Bad luck or poor planning?
If you're running the standard 4304 Wilwood front kit, you'll need 5-1/8" backspace.

Wilwood increases the offset 3/8" per side. 4.75" is optimal 17" wheel BS + 3/8" = 5-1/8" needed...
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Old 11-03-2009, 01:07 PM   #7 (permalink)
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If you're running the standard 4304 Wilwood front kit, you'll need 5-1/8" backspace.

Wilwood increases the offset 3/8" per side. 4.75" is optimal 17" wheel BS + 3/8" = 5-1/8" needed...
Or he has massive amounts of caster... Could be fixed with an alignment.

I can't understand why Wilwood still makes hubs that way. Surely they do enough Mustang business to make a hub that doesn't change offset.
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