Are you dead set on using the Ford pump? On the original power steering system it is way over boosted. There is zero road feel and its more like steering a boat.
Have you seen the KRC pumps with variable valving? You'll be able to change to valving to tune the feeling/assist you want/like.
I don't think that you can conclude that because the original power steering is overboosted, any other steering system with the stock pump will also be over boosted.
I don't mean to say that the stock pump is fine for this application though. According to Borgeson, the stock pump doesn't work well below 600 (or 700, I forgot) RPM. Apparently, the fluid flow is too low at that point.
It would have been nice if they (or somebody else) developed a box that is made to work (or better: work great with good steering feel) with the stock pump. That would have been simple and also appeal to those who prefer a stock look. Wishful thinking I guess.
Any idea how a later model fox body pump would work with this system? Perhaps something off a 88-92 5.0?
From what I've read/heard from one of their tech guys, the late model ford pump will work fine. I'm gonna go that route as well (Borgeson box with late model pump), once I get rid of my z-bar of course. Now I just need to choose between cable or hydraulic...
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2006-7 President of Bay Area Mustang Association
My Car-'65 Coupe-5.0 EFI, T-5, 9" w/3.70's
Wife's Cars-'97 V6, '04 Mystichrome Cobra-WMS Cold Air and Borla's, REALLY fast
i just bought a used 72 mustang saginaw power steering box off ebay. if my pitman arm fits the box i am going to try to fit it to my 65. i have 69 shock towers with 70 manual steering gear including a 70 short shaft 16:1 box. right now i have a Sweet Mfg. power steering servo , a tom lee steering ram , Sweet saginaw stock car type pump. it works real good but i would prefer the saginaw and that can be rebiult into a 14:1. its gonna take some work and will need to use 2 u-joints and possibly some frame work. i called borgeson and they said that ps box is a rebuilt import unit with 16:1 variable ratio steering and the steering effort is not adjustable. it takes an 11/16" u-joint or rag joint.
Last edited by supershifter2; 12-03-2009 at 01:14 AM.
Let you guys know in a couple of weeks. I just ordered all the stuff, that I need from Borgeson.
I have in my possession now, the new steering wheel and a F/R tilt column.
Hopefully all the parts will come in later this week.
I am a little concerned that I will need custom p/s hoses as they don't actually make a kit for the FE.
Also I am going to fabricate my own P/S pump mounting bracket. I ordered a generic (chrome) GM style pump, rather than mess around with the ford unit.
Also I am going to fabricate my own P/S pump mounting bracket. I ordered a generic (chrome) GM style pump, rather than mess around with the ford unit.
Shouldn't be too difficult.
I'm not sure what front accesory drive you are running, but if you are looking for a bit more bling and not against spending a bit more money, the March Style Track serpentine system uses a GM style power steering pump. You don't have to use their fancy unit either, you can use an original style pump. If you don't want the fancy bling you can get the pulley's and brackets in black also. Just another option.
David.
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1968 S code GT Fastback
1937 Ford Coupe Street Rod
1966 Galaxie 500 XL
1969 F100 Ranger
1972 F100 Ranger XLT Shortbox
1978 F150 Lariat Shortbox 4x4
1979 F100 Lariat Shortbox
1990 Thunderbird SuperCoupe
2003 Mustang Mach 1
It is possible, it seems, to remove and install the old and new steering box, by removing the export brace, and 'tricking' it out between the firewall and engine block.
This is quite the 'trick' and I would recommend removing the pitman arm from the old box, prior to bringing it out (and rag joint)
The new power box found it's way in easier, than the other one came out.
I may have to tweak the header pipe on the #8 cylinder to clear.
I won't know for certain because I cannot quite bolt the new box in.
The problem is, the new power box, is radiused slightly on the front edge near the frame.
This interferes with the big block reinforcing of the shock tower(s)
So what is going to happen, I am going to have to take a die grinder to the edge of the shock tower metal, just above the frame.
All in all I am pretty pleased with the progress tonight.
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Highly modified 67 coupe, rusty 68 vert, 03 Sonic Blue Cobra Convertible, 03 King Ranch daily driver
(not pictured) stripped 65 fastback waiting to be a street machine
I am also planning on putting one of these on my 69 project. I plan on using a Z bar if I can. I know I will have to modifiy it but I think I have it figured out. What I plan to do is run the part of the bar up higher toward the bottom of the master cylinder and then point the end down instead of up like the factory Z bar. Do you think something like that would work?
The new issue of Mustang Monthly has an installation article. They are using an odd ball steering column combination so that part of the article's not much help. And of course, no driving impressions are included.
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Kenny B.
1970 Mustang Sportsroof, Metallic Gold, Ginger interior
"Try not to become a man of success, but rather try to become a man of value" Albert Einstein
Spent much of tonight, grinding the BB shock tower reinforcing plate. (L plate -tower to frame under steering box)
Next I went to work clearancing the #8 header tube (more than it was)
I wish that I would have clearanced the header first. It probably would have saved me some grinding.
Anyway I am very close now.
Going to take my time making sure the header clears nicely. Couple more hours maybe.
I think Friday, maybe I'll pick up some stainless steel, for making the pump bracket.
A local hydraulics place, will make me some custom hoses with a 24hour turn around time.
Maybe Monday or Tuesday depending on bracket progress
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