Borgeson power steering conversion

ripped · 11-07-2009, 02:08 AM

I know this has been talked about, just a little here.
I am pretty seriously considering this conversion. I have read a few of the corvette forums, and the Borgeson conversion ('63-'82 vette) has very good feedback, on that chassis.

Being that the 'stang conversion is fairly new, and that Z-bar type cars cannot use it, there is really not much in the way of reviews.

Mine is an FE, with a hydraulic clutch, so I am chasing down a ford PS pump and bracket (Borgeson does not have brackets for the saginaw and FE) which the Borgeson rep, I talked to on the phone, said should work alright at 800+ rpm idle (which I have)

He also said that it was a very solid feeling steering, with no center dead spot.
I am anticipating that it will not be quite as good as a rack, but has a certain number of other advantages, if it works.
Price, bump-steer, ground clearance, steering radius, simplicity

If I go ahead with the conversion I'll post the results.

Krelboyne · 11-07-2009, 01:32 PM

Is this the integral steering box from Borgeson? Talked to that vendor at SEMA. The steering column needs to be shortened (1967), or collapsed between 2-1/4 - 2-1/2 inches if 1968-70).

The supplied rag joint 'probably', will work on a tilt column. The vendor had no idea that there was a difference tilt and non-tilt rag joints.

ripped · 11-07-2009, 01:46 PM

Yes that's the one.

They sell a shortened steering shaft for $54 +/-

https://www.borgeson.com/catalog2/in...?cPath=164_190

I figure around $675 + shipping, plus I have to get a ford pump and brackets

They sell a $#itload of rag joints and steering u joints. I was wondering about a U joint, or maybe that's too much vibration?

pabear89 · 11-07-2009, 11:29 PM

I have concidered this Steering box change also. But would need to change clutch to Hyd.
I think the rag joint coupler would keep things from tingling your hands better than a solid Ujoint.

ripped · 11-08-2009, 12:12 AM

My main concern, would be power steering hose length and routing.
I'm not certain where the hoses need to run. I have FPA headers, but I'll have to mock up some heater hoses, and check lengths. Then I can compare theirs, and see if I need custom hoses or not.

jmlay · 11-08-2009, 02:06 PM

I am contaminating this conversion as well, my car is not currently running so it is no hurry. I am very interested in hearing feedback

Interference is with the Z-bar & hoses prevents the use of a Z-bar so I would assume the lines could come off the pump & got right to the top of the steering box.

Shaun · 11-08-2009, 04:40 PM

Are you dead set on using the Ford pump? On the original power steering system it is way over boosted. There is zero road feel and its more like steering a boat.

Have you seen the KRC pumps with variable valving? You'll be able to change to valving to tune the feeling/assist you want/like.

Maxum96 · 11-08-2009, 07:47 PM

$675 for the steering box? That's not bad. I might be in the market for one. Just need to get my car on the road first! lol

jmlay · 11-08-2009, 08:01 PM

Heidt's makes a valve you may utilize to bleed off some pressure.:

Heidts Hot Rod & Muscle Car Parts - Suspension Systems, Camaro, Chevy, Ford, Disc Brakes, Superide
http://www.heidts.com/_uploaded_files/in-130.pdf

mike65 · 11-08-2009, 09:29 PM

I would also be interested in this to as both of our cars are in pieces & will be needing it soon.

mavken · 11-09-2009, 09:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maxum96

$675 for the steering box? That's not bad. I might be in the market for one. Just need to get my car on the road first! lol

Just keep in mind that's just the box. You also need a pump, special rag joint, hoses. All that adds another $450 or so to the cost. I do like the concept though.

Deviousfred · 11-09-2009, 11:12 AM

Any idea how a later model fox body pump would work with this system? Perhaps something off a 88-92 5.0?

Maxum96 · 11-09-2009, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mavken

Just keep in mind that's just the box. You also need a pump, special rag joint, hoses. All that adds another $450 or so to the cost. I do like the concept though.

Yeah, I realize that. But that's just like anything else on a car. You change one thing, you have to change 10 other things and spend a ton of $$$ to get it to work. Don't ask me how I know that.

pabear89 · 11-09-2009, 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmlay

I am contaminating this conversion as well, my car is not currently running so it is no hurry. I am very interested in hearing feedback

Interference is with the Z-bar & hoses prevents the use of a Z-bar so I would assume the lines could come off the pump & got right to the top of the steering box.

The hoses mount to the top of the box. With the Z bar inplace when you depress the clutch it would strike to hoses and also not allow full travel in the clutch bar.

Looking at the pic's of thier box it doesnt seem like it would, But checking where the z bar location is on my 70 Mach1 it would be a direct hit to the top of the box and hoses.
This is why I haven't changed it over yet.
I have a manual rack and pinion on my 68 and don't really like the way it drives.
So this intregal power box is more to my liking than a r&p for about the same cost, less the chutch conversion.

jimmie600 · 11-29-2009, 06:50 PM

I am probably going to go that way myself. I have a '66 with the toploader. I have already gathered the stuff for a front disc conversion and am going to add the rear discs as well. I want to go with power brakes, so I need to do the hydraulic clutch anyhow. Additionally, that should open my header choices up also. I already told the wife that I am probably going to spend enough to buy a new car on this one and she hasn't changed the locks-yet, so I may be able to pull it off.