I think I am going to take another stab at doing my own alignment. I have a couple extra tools that will make the job easier. I have a question though. I have read that having the car perfectly level is important. I can get the car level side to side, but I am not sure I can get it level front to back. How can I do that easily? Is it that important? I have read that it is very important to have the front level from side to side. The rest is not as important. I can't imagine that the tire shops all have there alignment hoists leveled perfectly do they? My garage floor has a slight grade for drainage like most garages do. If I make sure the front of the car is level side to side and do my alignment, will I be OK?'
I wonder where you would measure? would a level on the window sill work? or would you have to run a string F to R along the center axle line and hang a line level on it?
I would think you could put a jack under the differential and slip some thin boards under the rear tires until you get level.
Will follow as I'd like to learn how to do my own alignment also.
Jon
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"If it ain't broke, I haven't fixed it yet"
-Jon-
1967 Coupe 333ci CandyApple Red w/red int., AOD, 9" 3.50:1, Front PDB
'09 Warriors In Pink V6 w/glass roof - wife's Stang
I have thought about running a string and putting a level on it. I think the idea is to make sure that the tires are on a level plan so that you can dial in a very accurate alignment. I bought a new level today and have my caster/camber gauge ready. Need to get a few more shims and do just a little more reading. Once I get over this level hump I will take a day and get started.
Hey rmousir,
I always attempt to find level area of floor both side to side and fore / aft. However, side to side is most critical. For aft will affect caster reading only (assuming angle is not great enough to affect weight shift, as un-waiting of front would change camber). I would speculate that it is unlikely your garage has enough slope fore/aft to affect the alignment.
Jon,
You don't want to do any jacking. By leveling, you want to have the floor level. If this means you need to shim under a tire to have a level floor surface, that is OK, but you can't change the suspensions "at rest" position or your alignment will be for not.
I would speculate that it is unlikely your garage has enough slope fore/aft to affect the alignment.
Jon,
That is what I have been thinking. I think I will make sure I am level side to side. with luck the front to rear won't be to much. i will still look for a easy way to find level. I don't have a solid piece of material that is long enough that won't bend or flex but I might have a line on a long piece of angle iron aluminum that might work. if it does, then I will only need some tiles and the shims I mentioned earlier. Then I might be set.
Any tips on getting it right the first time? I figure it will be a day of set and check, set and check, until I get it together.
I used one of those bubble level alignment gauges from Eastwood. Being level didn't matter you zeroed out the gauge on the surface the car was on and then just set caster and camber per instructions. Worked great.
Water in a clear tube is a great level. I have seen water levels that have a graduated tube on each end. That would make it easy. You can do it with clear hose and a ruler too. Fill the hose mostly full of water and support both ends. Bubbles can mess things up so get them all out. The water will be level on each end. Stack linoleum tiles to get all 4 corners even. Mark the floor and record how many tiles on each corner to make it easier next time.
when i worked as a mechanic i did a lotta alignments. the car also needs to be level front to back for acurate caster adjustment. the car needs to be at normal ride height. you could put thin square pieces of plywwod or steel under the rear tires after using a long straight 2x4 or something to sit on the front turnplates and the rear plates and use a level to add thickness to the rear plates until level. mark the floor where these will be then move the plates drive the car on those marks and jack up each wheel and put the plates under them. you must have front turn plates to turn the front wheels to the correct in and out degrees to measure caster. the top of the turn plates sit on bearings that allow the tire to move without friction when adjusting. most race car parts manufacturers like Lefthander , Addco , Coleman , Stockcar Products sell turn plates. if you see a auto repair shop going out of business you might be able to buy their turnplates. the old style bubble caster/camber gauge is still considered the best as it doest need electronic calibration. if you cant find one that mounts directly to the hub those are great , if not i recomend a rim mount bracket so you can adjust for any wheel run out.
Last edited by supershifter2; 11-19-2009 at 02:51 AM.
Instead of the turn plates, I used a 6 x 6 piece of thin sheet metal. I used heavy duty grease, put it on the floor, then the sheet metal and drove onto the metal. This made it very easy to turn the wheels.
Instead of the turn plates, I used a 6 x 6 piece of thin sheet metal. I used heavy duty grease, put it on the floor, then the sheet metal and drove onto the metal. This made it very easy to turn the wheels.
in order to properly adjust caster you must turn the wheel 20 deg. out and then 20 deg. in folllowing the instructions on your caster camber gauge.
What is it that I'm missing here. Buy shims,make shims,pieces of plywood,bubble levels,you would think there was no such thing as an alighnment machine.It just so happens I had my 66 convertible lined up yesterday on a Hunter machine and it tells the machanic just what is needed where.No guesswork,no makeshift pieces,everything to the degree that makes it accurate and SAFE.
__________________
tooponies
"when all is said and done,usually more is said than done".
tooponies is right. If you can find a good alignment guy it is probably cheaper, in the long run. I road race so I am constantly checking and changing based on specific tracks. Before I had scales and set up gear, I bought a piece of cheap wood paneling from home Depot and cut it into 12" squares for level shims. I used heavy garbage bags and sprayed PAM inside of them for rotation tables. I still use my Longacre Caster / Camber guage and strings (front to rear) for toe. One thing often overlooked is 4 wheel alignment. Make sure you measure rear axel to front spindle on both sides.
Go slow and triple check EVERYTHING. Now I have some cool laser stuff that makes fast work of it.
tooponies is right. If you can find a good alignment guy it is probably cheaper, in the long run. I road race so I am constantly checking and changing based on specific tracks. Before I had scales and set up gear, I bought a piece of cheap wood paneling from home Depot and cut it into 12" squares for level shims. I used heavy garbage bags and sprayed PAM inside of them for rotation tables. I still use my Longacre Caster / Camber guage and strings (front to rear) for toe. One thing often overlooked is 4 wheel alignment. Make sure you measure rear axel to front spindle on both sides.
Go slow and triple check EVERYTHING. Now I have some cool laser stuff that makes fast work of it.
yeah a good alignment shop is the way to go unless you road race(like me) or have a tricked out front end (70 on a 65) that freaks the alignment guy out.
What is it that I'm missing here. Buy shims,make shims,pieces of plywood,bubble levels,you would think there was no such thing as an alighnment machine.It just so happens I had my 66 convertible lined up yesterday on a Hunter machine and it tells the machanic just what is needed where.No guesswork,no makeshift pieces,everything to the degree that makes it accurate and SAFE.
I have had my fastback since 1980, and not once in all that time did I get a proper alignment when I took the car to an alignment shop!
I Finally bought a caster/camber gauge off eBay and the car is now aligned correctly.
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DIY Alignment Questions
