Hey all, im new here. I just got my first mustang. Its a 67 coupe with 6 cyl and 3spd stick. I also have a 68 302 engine and a t10 that are laying around the garage. I was looking for information on the swap. What kinds of parts am I gonna need. I figured v8 suspension in front, but was unsure of some of the other things. What kind of problems am I gonna run into? If anyone has any info, please let me know.
Hey witchhallow
Yep...a lot of the parts will be usable. Some will be usable, but not "correct" for the car...e.g. front spindles will bolt on, but the tie rods are smaller taper, so you will have to use the 66 tie rods. The rear end (if memory serves correct) is the same over all length, but the spring perches on in a different position.
But in general...take advantage of them.
farmerjohn,
The I6 doesn't have an 8", it is a 7.25". Yes, the 8" is certainly better.
The rear end (if memory serves correct) is the same over all length, but the spring perches on in a different position.
the 8" rear should have the perches identical to the I6 location, all I did was replace the springs (not required, but probably a good idea) and put a 8" in. (upgraded to 9" now, same principal. ) not to mention better, it is also 5 lug!!
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mine.. 68 coupe, candy apple red. just doin some little things now, 95% complete and fully driveable!! woot. complete with BBK-SSI EFI intake bolted onto GT-40 crate motor, Tweecer R/T, AOD and large tires...
brothers.. 67 coupe, ford racing 302
9" with 4.11 gears and detroit true-trac, does good donuts.
Kind of OT, but I am about to upgrade the rear end in my I6 to a nine inch...the questio is, can I keep the original suspension?
Yes. Bolts right in. You will need a different rubber brake hose and the metal brake line on the housing will have to be changed.
Here is my opinion on changing a 6 to an 8.
Step one: sell the 6
Step two: buy an 8.
If you convert it note that it will not be worth as much as an 8 because of the engine code in the VIN.
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John Bednorz
1967 Shelby GT350, dark green, 347 stroker, 5-speed, inboards, #2206
1973 Mustang Convertible, white/white, black stripes, Q-code (351C-4V), ram air.
1968 1/2 428 CJ convertible, R-code, red/deluxe red, auto, finally finished.
"If you find the car of your dreams, ignore the price guides and pay whatever you have to in order to get it."
[quote=68RCodeConv;3961209Here is my opinion on changing a 6 to an 8.
Step one: sell the 6
Step two: buy an 8.
If you convert it note that it will not be worth as much as an 8 because of the engine code in the VIN.[/QUOTE]
I've heard this a few times on this forum, and I don't get it. When has an investment in time and parts etc on a vintage car ever increased the value to even cover the investment? That's not why we're all here is it?
I am only in it to build a nice driver. I bought the 6 because the body and interior are fantastic. I dont care what the overall "worth" is, the only real worth is what it means to me.
Yeah, same here. I have some surface rust in the trunk, but otherwise my bodywork is virtually mint. And the interior is all original apart from the dash pad. I want to put a bigger motor in the car and why not? It is my toy after all....
67-68 had 4 lug, but the suspension and steering is the same as v8. A lot of people think that there is a difference just like the 64-66. The difference is the springs and brakes. Even the spindles are the same.
I agree with rickster.. most 6-cylinders had drum brakes up front and IMO are woefully inadaquate for anything but trailer queen duty.
My 65 vert started out life as a 6-banger and since I'm replacing all the steering and suspension components anyway, a V-8 is pretty easy and no more expensive than leaving a 6 in the engine bay.
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