Originally Posted by fonebooth
i want the car to "look" original
so that means stock headlight and wiper and ign switches
and cutting those large plastic ends off to use those switches.. by bye oem harness..
All the terminals in the Ford connectors at the dash are removable, except maybe for the ignition switch. They're all either AMP .250 quick-connects or Packard 56-series.
I went a slightly different route in my wiring, since my car was not worth a 'councours-look' restoration from the day I got it anyway.
All the dash controls are original-look though I went with one of the Scott Drake intermittent wiper switches.
There will be a turn-signal mounted dimmer switch that's a Solidworks model right now in which I'm fiddling with dimensions for trying to get a little McMaster-Carr spring-detent ball into the design. Soon to spit it out to a CNC mill, not sure if it's going to end up aluminum or some flavor of machinable plastic yet. It screws into the turn-signal switch and a shortened stock lever screws into it.
That dimmer switch drives a VW headlight relay that toggles hi/lo based on a grounded input and will provide hi-beam flash with lights off. The mounting brackets for the relay socket and fuseholders for it (the VW relay has a funky base that requires a socket NLA and found in only a couple junkyard applications) should be back from the waterjet shop this week, so I can finish that wriing.
I ditched the factory bullet connectors everywhere I could - the only ones remaining I can think of are on the wiper motor and the top pump.
The dash has two Deutsch 12-pin DT-series bulkhead connectors and a 4-pin DTP for power circuits (+12 for main fuse panel/headlight switch and Vintage Air AC.) All the interconnects between harnesses are either Deutsch (for exposed harnesses) or Weatherpack (where they connect to the RJM harness) or AMP/Tyco Mate-N-Lok for interior/nonweathersealed connections (large for lights, etc. and small for gauges, turn signal, etc.) Other connectors are Packard 56-series, AMP quick-connects, AMP small Mate-N-Lok, etc. as necessary to mate with factory switches, motors, etc.
The battery's in the trunk and I've fabricated a little bracket to mount to the rear fender arch for the fuel-pump impact switch and a couple of relays for the top pump; the top switch will now just provide a coil ground for the up/down relays.
There's unfortunately fuses and relays all over the car now, and they're a mix of sizes, ideally I'd have liked to have one front-body panel and one rear-body panel but it didn't work out that way. There's the RJM stuff (four mini relays and an unsealed 4-ATO fuse block) on the right fender under the hood hinge, my headlight box (one VW relay, one mini relay, two ATO fuses in a weathershielded box) on the left front fender behind the (Toyota Tercel) washer bottle, a small Delphi main fuse panel (2 micro relays and up to a dozen ATM fuses) under the dash in front of the left air vent, some other micro relays under the dash for the Vintage Air stuff (their harness was unusably bulky), and a 4-ATO block and 2 mini relays in the right rear fender.
I've considered using the ISIS stuff for the '64 wagon, but haven't made any decisions yet; I *will* get things a little more centralized in that car.