Well, after a year of working out bugs, and breaking things at the track, the car went 11.3@121. I got kicked off for not having a roll bar, so in my normal fashion, I had to make some changes
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I had just started twisting the stock axles, so it was time for the rear to get some attention. I also ripped the spring perches off of the car at the track last year, which tore some stuff up. It bent the pinion gear, so I also put some new 3.70s and a Detroit locker in place of the 4.10s and spool.
Here is the stock axle just starting to twist
Here are my Moser 35 splines, 3.70s, and Detroit locker.
I got tired of having to keep the car moving to keep it cool, so I ditched the stock radiator, with the electric fan I added, for a 4 core aluminum radiator, and a bigger fan.
I fought with the toploader all year, and did end up making some decent passes with it, but as the car becomes faster, the toploader becomes even more of a pain to get working. Since the car is also becoming bottle fed, missed shifts are no longer an option, so out goes the 4 speed, and in goes the C4.
The last pass the car made was its fastest, and as you can see, the clutch was not happy.
Just based off of this, I'm sure the car has more in it.
The new setup is a PA Supercomp C4, Pro transbrake upgrade, Neal Chance converter, and a B&M Prostick shifter. It has a PA blowproof bellhousing, and a scattershield.
So, since I've got a driveline that's going to put up with some abuse now, I may as well go ahead and abuse it.
The plate and solenoids are mounted, along with the fuel pressure regulators.
I bought a module from a guy that simplifies wiring the transbrake and nitrous to all work together. Since the nitrous is on a WOT switch, it needs to not spray while I'm at the line on the Tbrake, and when I release the button, it has to release the brake, energize the nitrous/fuel solenoids, and retard the timing. It requires a few relays and a some thought. It also has to not retard the timing when the solenoids aren't activated, for motor passes. I'm still in the wiring phase, but it's coming along. It should be nice and clean when all finished.
And since I got booted before, for not having a cage, and the car is obviously going to be a little quicker now, here is the solution.
Since this is still a street car (lol), the door bars are swingouts and they're also removable, so I can leave them out, until I go to the track. The crossbar is also removable, so my kids can ride in the back.
Now, even though the car is becoming heavily modded, I still want to keep it a modified stock style, so it's staying full interior. I'll still have the stock console, radio and all that junk. To stay true to it being a street car, I don't want a racing seat, but I need a 5 point harness. My solution was to have my stock seat modified to work, so to be as safe as possible, we took the cover off and welded multiple braces inside the frame to strengthen it. There is also a tab welded to it, so it can be attached to the crossbar, but the most noticeable change to it, is how I had it modified for the harness.
It seems that car is a constant evolution now. I hope to have it on the road this week, but there is still a lot of wiring to. Then all the interior has to be fit back in around it. There's a lot to do, and the track opens in two weeks, so I need to get it on the road to start working bugs out, because I'm sure there will be some. Hopefully this turd moves down the track well.
Winter "improvements"
I did not know you could have a bolt on cross bar in the roll cage?..That is the one feature of a cage that ruins a "street car" as it makes the back seat pretty much useless...I would love to hear more details of your combo the way it was as our 1/4 mile mph is about the same and I am striving for low 11 second ETs with mine...My track has the cutoff point for a rollbar at 11.00 so I am not looking to go beyond that at this time although I would love a 10.99 timeslip in the glove box. 
Sure looks like fun...
