Subframe connectors question

Bkremkow418 · 02-10-2012, 09:42 PM

I've got a 70 vert. Right now the motor/trans are out. I'm starting to work on floor pan replacement-- one side at a time. The car is sitting on all 4 wheels. I've just both tubular weld-in frame connectors. I would like to install them before I go any farther with the floor removal. Can I put them in with the engine and trans out?

B.

Greg'66 5.0 · 02-10-2012, 10:35 PM

I welded my subframe connectors in without the engine and transmission installed. I also did it without the car sitting on the wheels. What is your concern - are you worried aboutthe body changing position without the weight of the engine/trans installed? My opinion would be that you are best off doing it with the body unloaded so that it is as straight as possible.

Bkremkow418 · 02-10-2012, 10:47 PM

I was planning on putting them in without the engine and trans( unloaded) I thought this might actual keep everything straighter when the car is loaded. As I'm at the point of installing them, I started to second guess myself and wonder if it would be better off being loaded. I'm going to stick with my original plan and weld them in with the drivetrain out. Thanks!!

shaneh · 02-11-2012, 07:39 AM

This whole loaded/unloaded thing is misplaced. I owned a chassis shop. I can't count the number of cars we built that were stripped completely before putting in subframe connectors or a roll cage. We preferred that. Not to mention the cars we built on a chassis plate where we started with a set of frame rails only and built a chassis around it and then hung body panels. The critical thing for you is to make sure to level the car corner to corner. It won't matter if the front is higher than the rear and vice versa as long as the car is at the same level from front right to rear left and vice versa. You want no twist.

ScottsGT · 02-11-2012, 09:43 AM

You're probably better off without motor or trans in. I did mine this week with no motor and trans. After I got them welded up, I noticed due to my unlevel garage floor, on frame rail was not even touching the jack stand. It was about 1/8" from touching. If the weight of engine/trans was in it, it would have twisted the frame rail down.
Not only is motor out, but it is a bare, stripped down body. I wish I had thought about this while it was on the rotisserie.

Mdreaume · 02-13-2012, 11:25 PM

Hi Greg I have 1965 Convertible. I am in Riverside CA and I am doing the 5.0 EFI with a T-5 from a 1992 Mustang I still have the donor car.
Did you buy the EFI wiring or use the original? Any suggestiongs on Original Wiring kits? I am considering putting in new regular harness kit.
Mike Reaume

ScottsGT · 02-14-2012, 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mdreaume

Hi Greg I have 1965 Convertible. I am in Riverside CA and I am doing the 5.0 EFI with a T-5 from a 1992 Mustang I still have the donor car.
Did you buy the EFI wiring or use the original? Any suggestiongs on Original Wiring kits? I am considering putting in new regular harness kit.
Mike Reaume

Mike,
You might consider a new thread asking this question. It's a VERY popular mod with the Mustangs, and you will get a LOT more answers from various members asking a direct question instead of asking in an unrelated thread.
But a quick answer would be a Google search will show you how to modify a stock harness, or you could purchase a Painless harness for around $550.00

Greg'66 5.0 · 02-14-2012, 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mdreaume

Hi Greg I have 1965 Convertible. I am in Riverside CA and I am doing the 5.0 EFI with a T-5 from a 1992 Mustang I still have the donor car.
Did you buy the EFI wiring or use the original? Any suggestiongs on Original Wiring kits? I am considering putting in new regular harness kit.
Mike Reaume

Me and some friends bought a ragged out '86 GT many years ago and parted it out. I kept all the wiring out of it. The EFI harness I am using is the 1986 harness, but I converted it to be compatible with mass air flow (basically all you need to do is add the MAF connector and move a few pins to different hole in the ECU connector). I am also using the 1986 dash harness & charging system harness so that the engine harness connectors plug right in. I modified the later model harness for use in the '66 and saved myself from buying a reproduction '66 harness. I am extremely comfortable with electrical wiring and was not intimidated by the complexity of what I did (I normally work on nuclear reactor instrumentation & control equipment). I tested the harness out after I modified it and everything worked perfectly.

If you aren't comfortable with wiring and reading schematics, you can buy aftermarket EFI harnesses that don't require much more than plugging in all the sensors and connecting it to the battery. It's much more straightforward than what I did, but I didn't mind the challenge and certainly didn't mind saving the cost of new harnesses. There are several manufacturers of aftermarket harnesses (Painless Wiring, American Auto Wire, etc.) that all make suitable harnesses. I have a second harness that I got with an A9L ECU that I got on e-Bay. The aftermarket EFI kits are probably the easiest way to go since they are independent of the rest of the wiring.

Since you have a donor car, it would be most economical to reuse the EFI harness from that car. It's really not that hard to modify - as long as you have a good working knowledge of how to read a wiring diagram. There's also plenty of knowledgable people here that will help you out - all you have to do is ask!

sfi427 · 02-16-2012, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shaneh

This whole loaded/unloaded thing is misplaced. I owned a chassis shop. I can't count the number of cars we built that were stripped completely before putting in subframe connectors or a roll cage. We preferred that. Not to mention the cars we built on a chassis plate where we started with a set of frame rails only and built a chassis around it and then hung body panels. The critical thing for you is to make sure to level the car corner to corner. It won't matter if the front is higher than the rear and vice versa as long as the car is at the same level from front right to rear left and vice versa. You want no twist.

+1
I had the car stripped down then I leveled it before I added the rear sub frame and connectors. Laser levels are fairly cheap and worth the investment. If not use a water level.

ScottsGT · 02-16-2012, 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sfi427

+1
I had the car stripped down then I leveled it before I added the rear sub frame and connectors. Laser levels are fairly cheap and worth the investment. If not use a water level.

Every time I see your posts, it keeps reminding me that you are my hero! Dayuuumm, that's one nice project you have going there!